VW T4 111kW AHY - Steering wheel shaking/vibration

Hello,

I'm experiencing a slight wobbling in my steering wheel when turning around the center point (straight position) at around 20 km/h. It only happens when steering. It's like one of the tires is oval. The wheels are completely NEW! They are alloy rims with winter tires. It's not always noticeable! Could it be that the steering gear is defective? Or even the power steering pump? I take the car to my workshop every 2-4 weeks and inspect it from underneath. I've already replaced a lot of parts. I've had an alignment, replaced the upper ball joint on the front right, the control arm bushings on the right, the tie rods completely, all Meyle HD parts. I can't detect any play. Or should I proactively replace the lower ball joints?

Thank you for your information!

Drive shaft - is it okay? Should I accelerate, decelerate, or let the car roll freely in gear? Did you temporarily install summer tires?

Wobble, flat spot, brake plate, uneven tire wear, out-of-round on the sidewall, brake disc or rim not properly centered on the hub – there are many possible causes.
hg
Herbert.

Hello, could these possibly be accessory rims that don't have centering rings installed?

Only when steering (while driving straight). Not when you are not steering. I suspect it might be the drive shafts, the power steering pump, or the steering gear.

Definitely none of the three.
If problems with the drive shafts were noticeable at such a low speed, there would be much more happening at higher speeds.
What could possibly cause a swaying or oscillating motion in the steering linkage, especially when combined with the power steering pump?
hg
Herbert.

Is there too little power steering fluid in the reservoir? Then the pump would occasionally suck in air, causing the support to fail until the remaining oil had foamed sufficiently...
But you can hear it.

Best regards, Rainer.

...or even the belt slips off the pump because something is worn out.

Okay, oil level is correct. I've already replaced the serpentine belt, but the old one was cracked. The new one was squealing, the next new one ripped, then I replaced all the tensioner and idler pulleys. The next new belt started squealing again, but the current new belt is quiet.

Okay, so I've now replaced the lower control arm ball joints (which made a big difference), replaced the power steering pump (which didn't help), and swapped my winter tires for my summer tires (which has almost eliminated the wobbling). The winter alloy wheels have a slightly higher offset. Now I need to replace the Meyle HD control arm ball joint on the right side (upper) because it's defective, and also the upper one on the left side. Then he should be completely calm.

Quote:

Now I also need to replace the Meyle HD ball joint on the right side, top, because it's defective! And the left side, top one as well.

It lasted a long time. It would be interesting to determine whether this is a case of plagiarism or an "original Meyle" product purchased from a specialized retailer.

You should only use Lemförder parts for these components; I've had bad experiences with Febi, Meyle (with or without the HD designation), and TRW.

Either original, Lemförder, or just really cheap.

Quote:

Either original, Lemförder, or just really cheap

Just for information ---> TRW is also an original equipment supplier for the Volkswagen Group (VAG). On some 3B Passats, the front control arms are sometimes made by TRW. In my car, they lasted an incredible 220,000 kilometers.
You have to differentiate . However, I personally would not use brake slopes.

You definitely can't go wrong with Lemförderer.

Okay, today I replaced the right upper ball joint again (this is the third Meyle HD one...) and the lower control arm ball joint (this is the second Meyle HD one). So, these parts last about 1.5 years with normal use on country roads. Luckily, I have a 4-year warranty... It is generally best to install the upper support joint using the plates provided with the bracket and a 56mm socket.

Hi!

Well, I don't know.
When I was replacing the upper ball joints on my T4...
I used genuine/original ones.
so that I don't have to do that so quickly anymore...

It's probably also a problem if you change them multiple times, because they might not stay securely in place anymore.

Quote:

After 20,000 km, I replaced the right upper ball joint again (this is the third Meyle HD...) and the lower control arm ball joint (this is the second Meyle HD...). So, these things last for 1.5 years with normal use on country roads.

That's precisely why I only use original parts or equivalent replacements. Finally, there are other things to do besides auctioning off scrap metal and hauling it away...