VP37 Injector Pump: What is the function of this adjuster?

Hello everyone,

I'm currently building a mechanical TDI engine using an ALH motor from a Volkswagen Golf 4.
For this, I'm using an injection pump from a Land Rover Discovery 300TDI that I bought online.

Now I've noticed that the purchased fuel pump is missing an adjustment mechanism that should actually be there. It's located where the cold start accelerator usually sits on older VW pumps.

(Image: Top is my pump, bottom is a picture from the internet -> this is how it's supposed to look originally.)

In the case of the Land Rover pump, the mechanism is not operated by a separate cable, but is linked to the accelerator pedal.

Can someone tell me what this is for and whether I can live without it, similar to how some people live without a gallbladder (KSB)?

Thank you and best regards.

Okay, apparently nobody knows. Then it probably isn't important .
I opened up the pump for a while.
The lever actuates a hook (located at the bottom of the image), which, as far as I can tell, limits the range of movement of the centrifugal governor.
Well. I hope this is only related to emissions or something like that. I'll try leaving it out for now.

Something else:
I want to transfer the flange (hub) from the impeller of a VP37 ESP, which came from an ALH engine, onto the impeller shaft of a Rover ESP.
I've never tried removing a pump flange before, and I don't want to break anything. How do you remove the flange after loosening the nut on the pump shaft? Is it simply done with a puller?

Thank you for your help.

Hi,
There are two types of VP37 units. In one, the pulley with its spline is mounted directly on the hub. In the other, the pulley is attached to a separate hub using three screws. With the latter type, after loosening the wheel, you can lose the hub assembly from the ESP shaft. The hub must remain securely in place.
Regarding your mechanical injection pump: isn't the shaft actuated from the right side (when viewed from the belt)? What part has been removed in the picture, which is unclear?
Herbert.

Sure, here's the translation:

"P.S.: If you look closely, the questioned adjuster has two close stops and should be operated via the throttle lever. It acts as a "counter-bearing" for the throttle mechanism inside the pump (?). "
Facial expressions are also present in AAZ (presumably referring to a specific context or group).

On the Land Rover, the flange sits on the shaft without a keyway, at least that was the case with the one I once had in my hands.

Why didn't you use a fuel pump from a 1.9 TDI engine made by VAG? Surely you can find one on eBay.

Hello everyone.


The lever at the top was introduced by the European standard.

It only releases the boost pressure enrichment (LDA) at the throttle valve lever when a certain driver demand (accelerator pedal position) is reached, in order to prevent black smoke at low speeds.
Avoid operating in the low-load range.
If you leave it open, nothing will happen. It should stay open, otherwise the whole thing will become sluggish if no "material" is released .

Regarding the 1.9TD pump, while it might make the TDI run, the injection timing is completely unsuitable for a TDI engine. The combustion process (ignition timing, ignition speed, burning rate, and combustion temperatures of the injected diesel) differs significantly between engines with swirl chambers and direct injectors.

Therefore, it is...
- Increase the opening pressure of the nozzle holders.
- The impeller design in the TDI is completely different.
- The hydraulic valve timing adjuster is designed with a completely different adjustment curve.

Therefore, the fuel pump from a 2.5/3.0 TDI Land Rover, or those from the 2.5L Fiat Ducato or 2.5L Citroen Jumper, are much better suited for this conversion.

In addition, you also benefit from the larger pump piston .


Regards, Mpire.

Thank you for your answers and help! Things are much clearer to me now.

However, I still don't know how to get the impeller from the ALH pump onto the Land Rover pump. It doesn't fit on the flange on the shaft of the LR pump, and the centering point in the middle of the flange is also too small for the ALH impeller.

Americans probably do this regularly. There must be a way to make it work.

So, I'm wondering if I can get the flange from the ALH pump to fit on the LR pump.
Then I could install the impeller and adjust the valve timing.

It seems that the flange on the shaft doesn't have a fixed point, which means the valve timing can no longer be adjusted, even if I can remove it. Is that correct? How do I find the correct position?

I am grateful for any advice.

Sure, here's the translation:

"Seruvs" translates to "Greetings" in English.


You definitely need the dial gauge with its holder to accurately find the "zero point" of the injection pump for the first cylinder.

Okay, so you need to install the clock and, with each pump activation, rotate the feed start point using the attached wheel.
Then, mark a wave on the front, forehead-like area. Now you can remove both flanges and reattach them correctly. Any deviation that might occur can be adjusted later.
compensate for this with the elongated holes in the drive wheel, as you will adjust the start of the conveying process after installation.
You still have to adjust the clock anyway. However, I would set the fuel pump timing 0.5mm later on the "big" pump; it runs better that way .

P.S. Please note the difference in the mounting orientation of the pumps. The ALH pump is tilted 60 degrees clockwise, so the "OT" (Top Dead Center) marking on the ALH pump is located 60 degrees to the left and towards the engine. In contrast, the LR pump has the "OT" marking in the usual position, centered at the top.

Simply attach the rebuilt and reset LR pump to the ALH engine, put on the drive wheel, and it's ready.

Regards, Mpire.

Thank you very much in advance.
I don't have a drive wheel for the Lobe Rotary pump at all.

I'll take a look at it in the workshop tomorrow and see what's going on.
I'm going to install the flange from the ALH pump onto the LR pump, attach a dial gauge, and then see how far I can get.

I'll definitely get back to you .

Best regards,