Wheel Alignment: Get Accurate Results Now!

Who is taking on this task themselves, and with what tools? What experiences do you have with it?

I use Gunson's alignment gauge and Trackrite, but I'm not satisfied with the results I get from Trackrite.

I'm considering buying "AchsBoxPro for Android". Has anyone had experience with this, or can you recommend other methods or tools?

Hello!

I can only use it for my personal use now.
And that's how I do it, in a very classic way, just like they did in East Germany 50 years ago.

I widened the old gauge measuring tool that belonged to my father.
To make the descent, you only need a weight attached to a rope and a measuring stick.

I also have the ability to adjust the wheels precisely so that the steering wheel is perfectly straight.

"I have a long trench with a perfectly level floor, and it works really well in there. Without a trench, I would say there's hardly any chance of success."

If I do it myself, for example, with my car, it naturally takes a long time.
But if I have to go to a workshop, make an appointment, and wait, that takes even longer.

If I remember correctly, there's a topic here that I was involved in before.
There were many DIY methods described.
It was quite a few years ago.

I measure the tilt using the Digi-Pas DWL-280Pro on a perfectly level surface. Although the DWL-280 also allows for differential measurements.
http://www.digipas.de/produkte/torpedo-wasserwaage/dwl-280pro

The track width is measured using a traditional method with a string framework.
I'm considering upgrading to a laser system with a mirror.

Hi,

I also measure the slope using a precision spirit level.

For track measurement, I use 2 levels from Ali.

With integrated magnets, they stick to steel rims on their own.

Best regards.
Adrian.

Well, maybe he has laser-pointer spirit levels.
I'm not sure if that's entirely accurate, and I think I'll stop believing it soon.
But it's an interesting option.

Hi,

The spirit levels have laser lines, which allow you to read the measurement on the rear axle rim. However, you should measure the axle width first, as this information is usually not provided.

Regards,
Adrian.

So, the modern thread-binding method.
If you ever have a car where the rear alignment is also out of adjustment, I can hardly imagine that you'll be able to fix it quickly with this.
Best regards, Frank.

Hi!

So, where I used to work,
Back in 1992, we acquired an axle alignment measuring device (an old piece of equipment, used and imported from the West).

There was a pipe that was placed from the front towards the rear wheels.
There were also lamps that produced a beam of light. There was nothing about lasers at that time.
It then went to the front wheels, where hub-mounted mirrors were attached.
and back to the rear wheels, where a scale allowed you to read the track width.

A spirit level was also included.

The basic idea was actually quite good.
but it is not technically reliable or accurate.

The beam of light was difficult to discern and scattered.
and the attachment of the mirrors to the wheel hub was also unreliable.

Ultimately, the effort involved was also quite significant, so the ancient, classic track width measurement on the rim edges and the measurement for the steering wheel position were once again put into use.
And back then, for the Golf 2 and the older vans, that was also acceptable.

But the idea itself was quite good, and I've already been thinking about recreating something similar, but with improvements.

Yesterday, I tried again in the yard, after my attempts with the TrackRite always resulted in the steering wheel not being level and the alignment being off.

Here's the translation:

"I used the following tools:"

- Small spirit level, approximately 20 cm.
- Large spirit level, approximately 2.5 meters long.
- Remnant piece of wooden flooring, approximately 2 cm thick.
- appropriate wrenches for the shock absorber and tie rod.

First, I adjusted the tilt. To incorporate the slope in the courtyard into the correct tilt setting, I placed the large level on the top edge of the front door frame with the window lowered. Then, I loosened the screws on the suspension and rolled the corresponding front wheel onto the remaining section of the wooden plank, with approximately 50% of the tire's contact area on the surface. Using the small level, I adjusted the wheel, taking the slope of the large level into account. The same procedure was followed on the other side.

I adjusted the track solely visually, as no other tools were available.

Result: The steering wheel is straight, the tire contact patch is good, and the car drives great.

Hello,

For the pure alignment adjustment at the front axle, the string method has proven effective on my wife's A3.

This is a very simple solution, but unfortunately, it only works well if the vehicle's suspension geometry is largely correct.

A laser level with a built-in digital inclinometer was also ordered, but fortunately, it will not be needed.

Best regards, Rainer.

Quote:

This one is very simple, but unfortunately, it only works well if the vehicle's suspension geometry is largely okay.

Okay. If you try to adjust the alignment of the front axle using a measuring device that is also stretched across the rear wheels, you shouldn't be surprised if it doesn't really work. The rear axle, with all its tolerances, at best serves to provide a "reference" for the front axle alignment, simply to center the steering wheel.

To ensure this, the front axle must first be adjusted to the correct "total alignment." How can this be done?

Attach a string, approximately 3 meters long, parallel to each front wheel and in the direction of travel. Alternatively, use a laser to achieve precise alignment.
Measure and record the distance to the ropes from a point as close as possible to the vehicle (e.g., directly in front of the bumper). Then, repeat the measurement from a point 2 meters further forward and record it. The difference between the two measurements will essentially be your total track width.

The total track width can be calculated using trigonometric functions based on the desired vehicle parameters. For example, 10 minutes of angle (0°10') or 0.167 degrees corresponds to a delta of approximately 5.8 mm with a measurement distance of 2 meters.

Once the overall track width is set, center the steering, tension the cables to the rear wheels, or use a laser to align the rear axle, record the values, and distribute them accordingly.
If it seems like only one side needs adjustment (e.g., when replacing a tie rod end), you can pre-center the steering wheel to simplify the alignment process using the rear axle.


The wheel alignment system from Koch essentially does the same thing.

Criticism and suggestions are welcome.

Hi!

So, I adjust the overall alignment of the front axle using a classic mechanical alignment gauge, just like they did 100 years ago.

Of course, a prerequisite is that the rims run smoothly.

"But it's quite quick, and you can even do it alone if you have some practice, and I can get it accurate to within half a millimeter."

I only do that with simpler cars, like when I've replaced a tie rod end, for example.
However, a pit is required. Fortunately, I have one.

Hi,
I chose two square aluminum tubes for the measurement, selecting ones that fit together perfectly without any gaps. They are 2 meters long (longer is better).
I secured them to the rims of the respective axles near the hub (using canning jar lids and clamps), and placed the free ends on jack stands with a ball bearing in between.
This allowed for a precise measurement of the distance from the axis at two different points, which could then be used to calculate the total track width.
I used that method to center the rear axle after replacing the guide bearings that connect it to the body. Of course, the alignment could also be checked.
hg
Herbert.