The correct driving technique

I hardly need my car anymore. I usually drive from one apartment to the other on Sunday evenings. The route is 15 km of country road, 80 km of highway (the last 15 km with a maximum speed of 100 km/h), and 2 km of city driving (at night).

During the week, I might occasionally drive my car to the discount grocery store, but I usually go to work by bicycle.

Then, on Friday evening or Saturday morning, I will drive the entire route in reverse, which includes 2 km of city driving, 15 km of highway at a slower speed, then 65 km of highway, and finally 15 km of country road.

'The same routine on the weekend, maybe go shopping or something, but overall, a maximum of about 20km.'

Regarding driving style: Avoid revving the engine when it's cold. On the highway, I usually don't exceed 130/140 km/h, and only occasionally go up to 160/180 km/h for short periods, such as when overtaking. So, more of a mid-range RPM level.

Do you think this is harmful to the TDI engine in the long run? Above all, it's the long periods of inactivity; it sometimes sits for 5 days a week before it's moved again.

Or would you, in that case, rather drive a gasoline-powered car (setting aside ideological considerations)?

Hello Kenny,

In my opinion, the amount of time a vehicle spends stationary is not a reliable factor for deciding between a diesel and a gasoline engine. The car should be kept in a dry place.

How many kilometers do you drive per year?

Just calculate the annual fuel cost savings compared to a similarly powerful gasoline-powered car, and check the difference in vehicle tax for your future car.
If you pick up your new car from the dealer and trade in your old one there, you might be driving the new car for quite a while, considering the dealer's profit of roughly €1000-3000 on the transaction.

Don't forget: A new car can bring new happiness, but also new problems. Personally, I prefer to stick with what's tried and tested, as long as there are no clear advantages to be seen in switching.


Best regards, Rainer.

@Kenny:

Apart from the 80 km driven in reverse on the highway *g*, your driving style isn't really detrimental to the diesel engine. In terms of standing still, diesel and gasoline engines don't differ significantly. Rainer's arguments regarding... Hardly a sale you could refuse.

With an estimated annual mileage of around 10,000 km, you're definitely no longer a suitable candidate for a diesel vehicle, which should be clear. However, considering the investment you've already made in your vehicle, you're currently only facing the higher vehicle tax and potentially a higher liability insurance premium. I'm assuming the vehicle is in good condition.

So, keep it for now. However, a larger repair that may be needed in the future, or even the scheduled timing belt replacement at a service center, could potentially lead to a reconsideration of whether to replace the vehicle.

Hi,

Try to take a look into the future. If things continue as they have been, I would sell the diesel car while it still has some value.
'Diesel engines have a higher initial cost, more taxes (if it's not brand new), and higher insurance premiums. For most TDIs, the break-even point is around 20,000 km per year.' And even if you achieve that, you still haven't saved anything.
Regarding the dealer's profit margin, I would try to sell the diesel privately (e.g., through the internet). 'Last year, I got rid of an old G3 with a 1Z engine for almost 2000€ above the dealer's purchase price (I bought it as-is).'
I therefore agree with the switch to gasoline.

Regards,

Eike.

@Eike:

How do you arrive at 20,000 km? http://www.michaelneuhaus.de/pkwkost.zip When I recalculate here, I get around 13,000 km/year. It's also important to remember that Kenny can already avoid discussing the issue of acquiring something.

The price difference between diesel and gasoline is currently back to the usual level of over 40 cents per liter, which means that even with a relatively small reduction in diesel consumption, a cost advantage can be achieved relatively quickly.

Hi Roger,

There's probably a bug in that Excel sheet. The higher I set my total annual mileage, the later the diesel engine becomes cost-effective.
Okay, ich bin bereit. Gib mir den Text.
10,000 km annual mileage:
Diesel engines become cost-effective starting at 15,000 kilometers (approximately 9,300 miles).

40,000 km annual mileage:
Diesel engines become cost-effective starting at 20,000 kilometers.

Nonsense, right?

The question is: "How many miles do I need to drive my vehicle each year before using diesel becomes financially advantageous?"

It's not so easy to answer, because you would also have to consider the vehicle's lifespan to account for the higher purchase price of the diesel, as well as the depreciation per kilometer. Then there's the personal insurance class, and with a contribution rate of 35%, the final bill can look completely different.
Comprehensive insurance: yes or no? The costs also depend on the model in this case.

Best regards, Rainer.

Hi,

"The insurance costs can be entered individually by each user, which automatically factors in their respective no-claims bonus. For the purchase price, at least 10% interest is calculated on the additional cost. The holding period is not taken into account, which is correct." However, I would compare the difference in the new price with the additional profit from the resale, as long as you don't plan to drive the car for exactly 10 years.

The minimum mileage requirement for rental cars is based on the difference between the total cost per car and the fuel savings achieved per 100 km. I suspect that the maintenance intervals, which are typically set at 20,000/40,000 km, are skewing the calculation. I will, however, talk to the person who created the table about it.

The table has only been filled with example values, which can be individually adjusted on the first sheet after using the help function.

Hi Kenny!

You haven't yet considered a very important point:

The depreciation of a TDI is quite low and is only surpassed by a few cars (e.g., the Mercedes C-Class). "Its torque, unlike that of comparable gasoline engines from our brands, is sensationally high, except for the TT, which would really be a viable alternative."
The higher price and fixed costs (including taxes) associated with diesel can be offset, even with low mileage, by savings realized when reselling the vehicle.
For someone like you, with a business administration background, creating a comprehensive invoice with all the necessary components wouldn't be difficult.
Another invaluable factor is the increased driving pleasure offered by the TDI. Unfortunately, you rarely get to be your own customer when it comes to refueling.

Best regards,
Uwe

Hello Kenny!

Another significant factor when it comes to cars is the fun factor.

Here's a short anecdote: My father, now 60 years old, previously owned a Golf III 1.8 with 90 horsepower. After 10 years and significantly less than 8,000 kilometers per year, it was time for a new car. My father, known for being a practical person, didn't even consider a diesel engine given his low mileage. Test drives with the conventional 1.6-liter engine with 105 hp and a 1.6 FSI engine disappointed him.
When I suggested that he try the 74 kW TDI, he initially dismissed the idea.
After he finally took it for a test drive, he got out of the car, immediately signed the purchase agreement, and hasn't regretted it at all so far. He is very impressed with the car's acceleration and its low running fuel costs.

Best regards, D.

@Uwe: I'm a computer scientist, and my parents own the gas station. I now live too far away from them to go there to refuel .

You can still have fun with a gasoline engine; you just have to let it rev higher. Another thing that matters is the noise level; at least, my TDI sounds like a tractor when it's cold.

Besides the cost, my primary concern was whether a TDI engine, if it's mostly idle and not driven much, is more prone to developing problems.
According to my trusted VW mechanic, TDI models are in the workshop three times more often, and the average cost of repairs and maintenance is also significantly higher. I can confirm this from my own experience, as my car has been there several times for issues common to diesel engines. Right now, for example, there's a squeaking sound whenever the car settles down, both in the front (and I think also in the rear). It's not the shock absorbers, because 1. they are new, and 2. the car makes no noise on the shock absorber test stand when simply being raised and lowered. Therefore, something must be squeaking or have play somewhere in the direction of or against the travel, perpendicular to the suspension (perhaps the stabilizer?). This kind of thing is certainly less likely to happen in a vehicle with less weight on the front axle.

The workshop recommended the 1.6-liter gasoline engine with 105 horsepower, as it's the most reliable option. However, its performance cannot be compared to the 110 (or now 100 or 130) TDI, especially not with a chip tuning modification (which I have since removed).
The 1.6 engine is Euro 4 compliant and tax-exempt, and because of its smaller displacement, it has lower taxes. The timing belt interval is longer, and the replacement is easier. It also has lower insurance costs. Depending on your driving style, the oil change is recommended every 50,000 km (?!). If that 50,000 km interval is accurate, I'm more likely to sell the car than to change the oil.
However, I think the fuel consumption will definitely increase from 5-6 liters to 8-9 liters.

Thank you for your answers, anyway. It seems it's really just a matter of ideology.

Typically, when it comes to oil changes, the advantage in terms of mileage usually lies with diesel vehicles.

LL gasoline engines: maximum 2 years or 30,000 km.
LL-Diesel: Maximum 2 years or 50,000 km.

For that, the cold-pressed 506.01 oil for LL-PD costs, depending on the source, between 13 and over 20 euros per liter...

Hi Kenny,

Have you ever driven a car with the 105 horsepower 1.6-liter engine? That could make the decision against him very easy.

Best regards,

Jan, who once had a similar experience in a borrowed Córdoba from a workshop.

Hi Kenny!

Okay, if I were you, I would keep the TDI and continue driving it.
While the car sits mostly at your place, you do drive it, and when you do, you at least drive long distances once a week. That's good for the engine.
Even if the fixed costs per year are higher than those of a gasoline-powered car, and you don't achieve any economic benefit from the lower operating costs.
Simply enjoy the driving pleasure and face future increases in mineral oil prices and eco-taxes with a sense of calm!

Regards,
Alex.

The cobwebs on a car that has been parked for a longer period are not typical, nor are the surface rust or the signs of age and cracking on the tires.

It's nonsense to say that a car is more likely to break down because it has been idle for a long time. You've just had a bit of bad luck.

Mine is over 4 years old and has 150,000 km on it, and it has had very few defects (mass airflow sensor, brake discs, fuel temperature sensor, clutch, all covered under warranty thanks to extensive chip tuning).

Why did you take the chip out?

Best regards,
Uwe

@Rainer K.:

Hello Rainer,

I contacted Michael Neuhaus regarding the comparison table. According to him, it seems likely that you entered the values for the gasoline engine on the right side instead of the left. Then the calculations will be incorrect (see the instructions on page 1).

"I'm quoting Michael's response:"

"When I open the table and take the values from the example page, I get..."
10,000 km, but with a recommendation to remove a minimum of 12,664 km.
40,000 km results in a calculated value of 8,743 km.

While it has some issues, it's related to the calculation method. The annual mileage is simply calculated by dividing the extra cost per year by the fuel savings per year. So, it's not a real minimum mileage requirement, but rather an approximate value. Perhaps it would be better to compare the total costs per year.

However, despite that: the exact opposite behavior, which was reported in the forum, can only occur if the values for the gasoline are entered on the right side instead of the left.

Hi Roger,

Hmm, I actually registered it as a diesel vehicle...

How about a proper calculation that results in two graphs, showing the cost per year as a function of mileage.
Where the two graphs intersect, the vehicle with the lower curve at that point becomes the more cost-effective option.
That would be something for our Excel specialists.

Best regards, Rainer.