Hard Fixing: Durable & Reliable Fastening

Hello,

I'm having trouble resolving some minor issues with my 1Z.
Two weeks ago, I experienced a power loss with a cold engine under full load, accompanied by black smoke coming from the exhaust. This hasn't happened again.

"Since then, I've noticed that my 1Z engine is making a louder, harsher noise, especially at idle. Sometimes, I can feel vibrations in the footrest, pedals, and steering wheel. It's definitely not pleasant. Additionally, I've observed that it sometimes starts sluggishly, despite having new glow plugs. Furthermore, I hear a loud engine rumble in 5th gear at 120 km/h and around 2500 rpm. It's quite unpleasant to listen to."

"I don't think I'm experiencing any loss of power; in fact, I sometimes feel the opposite. Of course, I'm not driving on the highway, but when overtaking on country roads, you would normally notice a loss of power.

However, I've noticed something else. When the car is stationary in the city, and the engine is warm, quite hot air comes into the cabin, almost in bursts. The heating is set to slightly above vertical, the ventilation is on level 1, and the airflow is directed towards the head/feet. It could be normal, but it's really warm, almost hot, air that's coming out, and this is after just a few kilometers of city driving without high RPMs. This doesn't happen on country roads."

I'm particularly worried about this hard engine knocking right now, as I can't figure out where it's coming from. The idle speed is usually between 900 and 950 RPM, according to the tachometer.

Hi,

I had noticed the exact same things before... and then, at some point, there was also a loss of power.

Bei mir funktionierte die Verstellung für den Einspritzzeitpunkt nicht mehr. Trotz korrekter Ansteuerung und Funktion des entpr. Solenoid valves.

The fuel injection pump was ultimately defective, most likely due to the effects of biodiesel.

It's best to start by reading the error codes from the system's memory.

Regards,

Spocht.

Reading the error codes didn't reveal anything, except for an error related to pin DFM.

This morning, there was that same loud knocking sound again. However, a new noise joined it, immediately after starting the engine. It came from the area around the pedals and the bottom plate, and it sounded like something was hitting the bottom plate. I suspect it's the flexible pipe.
Is it possible that these vibrations in the engine and the apparent loud knocking sound could be caused by a defect in the flexible pipe or the exhaust system?
I imagine that the flexible pipe is "deformed," causing the exhaust system to vibrate underneath the car, and occasionally something hits the underbody. This would cause vibrations that are transmitted up to the exhaust manifold and onto the engine block. Would that be a possible explanation?

That might be possible, but it wouldn't really explain why your car was emitting black smoke from the rear during the initial issues. I would first check the engine mounts and inspect the engine bay from underneath for any areas where contact is occurring. In my Corrado, we had a similar problem where the flexible pipe touched the steering linkage under full load, which also caused a tremendous roaring noise.

Check this out first...

arne

Hello,

I'm having trouble resolving some minor issues with my 1Z.
Two weeks ago, I experienced a power loss with a cold engine under full load, accompanied by black smoke coming from the exhaust. This hasn't happened again.

'Since then, I've noticed that my 1Z engine is making a louder and harsher noise, especially at idle. Sometimes, I can feel vibrations in the pedals, footrest, and steering wheel. It's definitely not pleasant. Additionally, I've noticed that it sometimes starts with difficulty, despite having new glow plugs. Furthermore, I hear a loud engine rumble in 5th gear at 120 km/h and around 2500 rpm. It's quite unpleasant to listen to.'

'I don't think I'm experiencing any loss of power; in fact, I sometimes feel the opposite. Of course, I'm not driving on the highway, but when overtaking on country roads, you would normally notice a loss of power.

However, I've noticed something else. When the car is stationary in the city, and the engine is warm, quite hot air comes into the cabin, almost in bursts. The heating is set to slightly above vertical, the ventilation is on level 1, and the airflow is directed towards the head/feet. It could be normal, but it's really warm, almost hot, air that's coming out, and this is after just a few kilometers of city driving without high RPMs. This doesn't happen on country roads.'

I'm particularly worried about this hard engine knocking sound at the moment, as I can't figure out where it's coming from. The idle speed is usually between 900-950, according to the tachometer.

Hi,

'Spontan fällt mir dazu ein:' translates to:

'Spontaneously, what comes to mind is:' or 'Immediately, I think of:'

1) Is the original crankshaft pulley bolt still installed? A loose bolt could cause the timing belt to slip or jump teeth.
2) Could you please check the fuel injection timing? It might be set too early, which could cause a harsh engine knock.

Regarding the additional noise:
Take a look at the slightly thicker aluminum foil (which is probably sheet metal) on the...
rear, right engine mount.
'This thing keeps coming loose on my 1Z and then it sounds like...'
exhaust fell off -> turn up the radio

Best regards, Rudi.

Okay, today I started looking for something.

The cover of the right engine mount was actually completely bent upwards. Furthermore, I noticed that the heat shield behind the flexible pipe has a crack, and the hoses of the cable-operated gear shift are rubbing against the heat shield; one of them is even cut. I tried to bend it back a bit, let's see. This could definitely be the reason for the metallic rattling sound I hear when accelerating, because it's not present when the vehicle is stationary! Image of heat shield Image of cables

I removed the timing belt cover and noticed that the back side of it was completely full of oil. By "back side," I mean the narrow edge that faces towards the interior of the car. Could some oil have spilled over when someone was filling it? Or is the seal on the camshaft shot? However, the area above didn't appear oily, but rather it looked like the oil ran down the inside of the cover from top to bottom.
The timing belt shows some longitudinal ridges, and you can see on the back where the teeth are located. The width is 24mm. Image 1: Timing belt Image 2: Timing belt
And it seems that someone also left quite a bit of dirt during the oil change, probably when removing the oil filter. They definitely didn't remove the underbody protection.

However, I couldn't identify the source of those idle vibrations. It's difficult to move the engine when it's off, and the engine mounts are dry, etc.
"I've noticed that these vibrations aren't always present, but I'm increasingly suspecting that they're coming from the timing belt area. When the vibrations are present inside the car, everything shakes, including the hoses for the cooling system, etc. When the vibrations disappear, everything is quiet up front."

x world one wrote:

I removed the timing belt cover and noticed that the back side of it was full of OIL. By "back side," I mean the narrow edge that faces the interior of the car. Could someone have spilled oil while filling it, and it dripped down? Or is the seal on the camshaft shot? However, the area above didn't appear oily, but rather it looked like the oil ran down the inside of the cover from top to bottom.

Hi,

It seems someone forgot to replace the intermediate shaft seal during the timing belt change . It typically needs to be replaced after 90,000 km. In my experience, the camshaft seal lasts at least 180,000 km.

Which spark plug are you using? And please always specify the mileage .

That would also be a possibility. The mileage is approximately 173,000 kilometers. I wasn't able to check the KW screw because I couldn't easily access it due to the power steering.
But the timing belt looks strange with its longitudinal grooves and the white teeth that are visible. (I haven't seen an original one before, and I've never had to replace one.)

"The vibrations you're describing most likely point to the timing belt. Firstly, the tensioner pulley could be seized, which prevents the timing belt from being properly tensioned. Especially when the engine speed increases, the belt starts to oscillate and can even affect the injection timing of the fuel injection pump – leading to a loss of power and potentially very sooty exhaust gases because the fuel injection amount is also incorrect. If the tensioner pulley is okay, another possibility is the camshaft sprocket. Check if this sprocket is running smoothly or if it has been damaged. My suggestion would be to replace the timing belt and tensioner pulley (because based on your description, it should definitely be replaced), and while you're at it, check or replace the camshaft sprocket as well. Afterwards, readjust the fuel injection pump (if the knocking sound still occurs), and the engine should be running properly again. If the problems persist or reappear, along with a loss of power, then the fuel injection pump should be considered as the culprit."FG
Buchi.

Okay, thanks. So, I wasn't mistaken. I ran the engine with the timing belt cover removed and watched to see if the timing belt was slipping anywhere. The only thing I noticed was that the screw on the camshaft pulley seemed to be slightly loose. Since it was tight, I didn't pay much attention to it. So, I guess I'll have to go to ATU and see how much it will cost. They can check the crankshaft pulley screw as well; I'm not brave enough to mess with the timing belt myself.

Hi,

A simple turn of the screw is enough, and you'll know which one it is... see here: http://home.arcor.de/sgrafen/salatoel/kw_schraube/kw_schraube.html

Okay, the week before last, I replaced the exhaust system (MSD + ESD), and since then, the vibrations have almost disappeared. I still think something is knocking a bit harshly, but hopefully, that will be resolved when I change the timing belt.
It's amazing how expensive a TDI exhaust system is, 300 euros including installation because mine broke off while I was driving. (40 euros of that is for the installation).

The best part is, I had it done at Pitstop, and it cost around €380. They have a "low-price guarantee" for exhaust systems, meaning they guarantee to be the cheapest within a 30km radius. So, after the work was done, I went to ATU and got a quote, then took it to Pitstop, and they gave me €80 back because ATU was cheaper. It's great that there are still companies out there who stand by their word without a lot of hassle!

"But still, I find the price quite high, I mean, the Euro 2 emissions standard for the 1Z model has to be factored in..."

x world one wrote:

But still, I find the price quite high, well, the Euro2 standard for the 1Z has to be paid for...

Hi,

During the exchange promotion, there was definitely no new catalytic converter included . From my parts supplier, I can get the original parts (Leistritz) for 200 euros (including both the front and rear silencers). Pit-Stop and ATU, etc., only install cheap parts that fail after 2-3 years .

So, for 200 euros, I could have also gotten original VW parts, but even just the distributor cap costs 190 euros from VW!

Yes, I know that there was no cat included, but why are the parts so expensive on the TDI? The MSD is much larger than the one on the TD, and well, it doesn't really dampen anything }. The only thing that was heard when it broke off was the rattling }, but there's no roaring like you get with a gasoline engine without an MSD and an exhaust system }.