Windshield wipers needed!!!!

Yesterday evening, I came home from work and my wife
told me that the windshield wiper on your Passat
(Born in 1999) He would have lived a full life. So, I am
Flashlight confiscated and I took a look at the situation.
I haven't seen anything like this before. The wave for
the left wiper arm was in the left end of the wiper
aufnahme total fest and the wiper motor had it
complete end piece removed - total damage. That
Ganze hasn't announced anything. I was able to catch the wave.
not even in a vise with a 'large' pipe wrench
move - so the wiper motor really has to be powerful.
The Biggest Friendly
in the Wetterau district, there was naturally no part available - must
to be ordered, as it is a public holiday in Bavaria today
I will receive the part tomorrow afternoon. That means 2 days
Without windshield wipers, and that's especially bad in this weather. That's where
a hazard to traffic.

Yes, and this is definitely not going to be cheap, or?

A friend of mine once had a Mitsubishi Lancer (....you can't even drive that, really....) that was 9 years old. He had broken the suspension components. It was then declared a total loss, which was economically the best option. The part, if it needed to be replaced, would have cost 1400 DM. Well, today the mill is traveling through Africa, and things won't be so crowded...

Hello Matthias,

70 Euro and one hour of work - is that possible?

What you've been saying about Mitsubishi, I've heard from everyone.
Japanese, Although the boxes are running relatively smoothly - but
If there's any truth to it, the costs will be enormous!
I'm already spending too much on replacement parts for my Kawasaki.
concerns, I will not buy a Japanese car
Case worsening, especially since I still find the boxes terrible.
finde!

Hello everyone!

Quote:

The wave for the left wiper arm was in the left end of the wiper capture completely...

Unfortunately, this is not an isolated incident and is not specific to a particular brand. I have also made repairs to my A3 at this location. My friend's Nissan also had a major problem exactly at this location. The steel shaft is mounted in a plastic part. Due to corrosion on the shaft, it has increased in diameter and consumed the necessary clearance. The noises when the wipers were activated simply sounded very strange. I just managed to dismantle and repair the whole thing in time, otherwise it would definitely have broken.
I can only confirm that windshield wiper motors are very powerful!!

Greetings
Alex

At my Sharan, the wiper was also defective. According to my mechanic, this is normal at 100,000 km. However, it was not in stock and had to be ordered from the factory. And they also refused to deliver, so I had to wait for more than 5 weeks for the part.
Just before the part arrived, my friend suggested that I should get myself taken care of next time it rains. Then I will receive a rental car (mobility guarantee) and he can put more pressure on me.

Hello everyone,

So, my wife's Passat is 5 years old - I don't think this is a defect.
already a bit strange. I have never experienced anything like this before.
although I have been driving and repairing cars for 30 years, and I have
Past: Some mills are actually very old!

I agree with Jürgen on that, this part should actually work quite smoothly. It's difficult to ensure safety. It's clear that this can happen, but I can't imagine that it's a normal wear and tear part, since according to your statements, it's not even a part that's on the shelf.

If the wiper blade is completely frozen, this can happen in any vehicle. I once had an AUDI 80, manufactured in 1979.

Best regards, D.

When I had the Golf IV, it also happened after 4 years. After the rear wiper only lasted 3 years, I wasn't really surprised that the wiper arm in the front also broke.

I only needed the linkage (around 35 euros), as the wiper was still not completely fixed. The damage was reported to be caused by slow wipers that moved slightly jerkily. Sometimes, a slight squeaking sound could also be heard.

Regarding the power of induction motors, I can only agree with donalexo. I couldn't even move the lever in the vise with the open-ended wrench, I only managed it with a hammer!

Unfortunately, the axles were so rotten that I couldn't remove them from the bearings anymore. The new steering system has been improved and even includes a seal. The old chain was either never greased, or the grease was applied so sparingly that it had worn away or been washed out.

Of course, I haven't received any goodwill gesture: "Your vehicle is already in its 5th year of operation..." - a miracle that it's still running.

I've also had this problem with my two Passats!

at the first (manufactured in 2/9 the connecting rod was stiff at around 200,000 km - it was removed and made functional again by lubrication - 1 hour of work without any electronic parts

In the second (manufactured in 6/9 case, the issue arose around ~180,000 km - the same problem. The friendly mechanic wanted to install a new drive shaft + engine for a significant amount of euros ('not with me - please repair it like the first time!'). Unfortunately, something went wrong during the disassembly/repair attempt, and the new drive shaft (+ engine?) was installed, but it only lasted for another hour.

Hi,

if one reads this in this way, then the conclusion would be that one should regularly apply grease to the hinges of the door.

Does that make sense, and if so, what kind of fat?

As long as nothing is broken, you should be able to get around almost everything without disassembly, if you remove the plastic caps over the water tank.

Best regards,

Jan

Hi,

I accidentally discovered the product 'Nigrin Multi-Purpose Grease' at the hardware store.

Here's the translation:

'The following is printed on the package:
- it contains active ingredients with optimal lubrication properties, which protect against corrosion, wear and tear, and premature aging.
- particularly suitable for engines and machine parts, especially for lubricating high-speed rolling and sliding bearings of all types and sizes
- extremely wear-resistant, temperature-resistant from -30°C to 120°C, salt water resistant
- Complies with DIN 51802
- is used as standard equipment by leading automotive manufacturers

That's all well and good.
Currently, the material is being applied to my eFH, and so far, it has been successful. It is currently undergoing a long-term test .

Alternatively, I have also had good experiences with plumber's grease from hardware stores, regarding water resistance. However, I cannot say whether it is suitable for the mechanical loads in the windshield wiper linkage.

Best regards, Andy

I bought something like this about 10 years ago.

Castrol LM

Multi-purpose grease based on lithium-calcium soap (penetration class 2), smooth structure. Temperature and aging-resistant, water-repellent. The universal grease for all grease points. Approved by Mercedes-Benz in their Betriebsstoffliste, Sheet 267.

http://www.castrol.de/produkte/a_auto/images/fette/lm.jpg

and this will also be sufficient for the next 10 years

also auch super for the knee joint

@all,

My wipers (Passat 3B, VIN 12/98, 207,000 km) are also only working slowly .

I wanted to lubricate it today. The problem is that I haven't been able to remove the wipers from the shaft yet. I have now applied some rust remover.

Does anyone have a tip on how to remove the windshield wipers?

And the plastic cover? The screw and the two clips come off quickly, but then, is something still stuck somewhere?

Thank you in advance.

Greetings
Peter

Conical wave, approximately 15° cone angle! Can this be done with a 2-arm pincer, or possibly even a battery pincer?

Best regards, Robert

Seems to be a problem related to the VAG (Volkswagen Group) system.

After my windshield wipers started to slow down, I disassembled the wiper arm exactly one year ago and discovered that the wiper arm pins were almost welded in place. I then used sandpaper to verschandeln and remove the rust, and also cleaned and lubricated the pin holder and wiper arm. But that didn't last long.
Last weekend, I had to work on it again, and this time I had to wait almost half an hour for the bolts to loosen. Then I had to re-tap the thread.
This time, I decided to go a bit more "Russian" with it. I really don't want to have to go through this procedure every year.
I used the grinding machine to remove approximately 1mm of material all around, until the pin could easily fit into the guide.
Everything is well lubricated and installed.
Thankfully, the engine didn't suffer any damage.
He seems to be really incredibly strong. Finally, I was unable to move the joint with my hand even an inch.

I'm curious to see how long this will last.