How hot does servo oil get?

HI

The tube through which my 1Z's power steering oil is drawn from the reservoir to the pump is called the "cooling tube."

It's true that it's right in front of the engine and not in the airflow, but what can you do?

I noticed on the T5 that this tube even passes twice in front of the water cooler, hangs directly in the airflow, and even has extra fins.

So, there will probably be a reason to cool down.

How hot does the soup actually get in the pipes?

In the summer / In the winter ???

The background is my loud grinding noise, which is clearly temperature-dependent - maybe just cooling the oil better will help.

m;

Hi Martin,

Are the bearings in your fork legs okay? Have you ever flooded the gap between the dome plate and the upper spring perch with oil?
If the steering column is forcibly rotated past its upper (fixed) limit during steering, you will typically hear a characteristic "creak...clunk...creak" sound. With each "klong," the top spring washer would jump forward a little further.

Best regards, Rainer.

Hi Rainer,

The creaking is always there in the summer.
Last summer, I got new shock absorbers, and the strut mounts were also replaced at the same time.

The creaking was there before and after. Therefore, I don't entirely believe that the dome struts are causing the noises.
Especially since there must now be multiple sources, because it also occurs when driving straight if the wheel compresses (but it only comes from the left).

Despite that, I have a question about your tip: Which specific gap are you referring to? Should I remove the upper bracket (this piece of metal that sticks out (29)) and then drip some oil into it?

http://www.luxus-wg.de/~martin/auto_bilder/Federbein.jpg

m;

Between part 29 and the body panel.
It's possible that there's a plastic cap still on it, covering the threaded end of the shock absorber piston rod.

- The cap is no longer available from G3 (but I want to add it .

- The (29) is made of metal, and it doesn't touch the body anywhere - otherwise, the body would be immediately rubbed bare and would start to rust!

I suspect the tie rod end, the ball joint, the tie rod joint on the steering gear, and in the worst case, the steering gear itself, because the creaking sound is most noticeable on the tie rod.

I'll still take a closer look at that (29), thank you.

m;

Hello,

"I experienced something similar; it wasn't temperature-dependent, but rather dependent on the entry speed. So, I took the turn with momentum and steered sharply... *crack*!" Sometimes, even when standing still.
Here's what helped me: Lift the bellows on the tie rod. Insert the spray nozzle from Innotec Power Grease and spray generously in both end positions of the steering. Do both sides, and don't forget to leave the bellows raised with a pin or something similar for about 2-3 hours to allow the gas to escape properly; otherwise, you'll end up with an air bubble on the tie rod .
Since then, it's been quiet.

Best regards, Robert.

Hi,
The idea of using grease isn't bad, but if the inner tie rod ends are worn out, you might not hear any noise anymore, but you could potentially have other problems.
Or do you think that the noises can clearly be traced back to the bellows?

Regards,

Olli.

Hello,
No, the joints are fine; I suspect the issue is with the guide or boot of the timing chain. Steering is smooth and unobtrusive!

Best regards, Robert.

The noises are gone - because I replaced both tie rod ends with new ones!

Now, only the clutch is squeaking .

m;