G3 Door Lock Freezing: Strange Issue?

Hi.

After filling my garage with junk, my Golf 3 has to sleep outside.

"For the past two mornings, I've been experiencing some strange behavior with the passenger-side door."

- Opened the gate using the remote control.
- The BFT gate did not unlock (probably because the button inside was frozen).
- With a little patience and some force, the button popped up.
- but the door still wouldn't open.
- ZV to - ZV on
- Now the door opens as well.

What is freezing?
Why have the students at the university been having such a hard time opening the doors lately, even when behaving normally (they've been struggling with the external handle, and they've been very reluctant to open them)?

Has anyone ever experienced this kind of behavior at the castle before?

Any information - besides "replace the lock"?


Thank you.
m;

I had the same problem last winter.

At sub-zero temperatures (just below freezing), the door lock on the passenger side did not open immediately.
After pressing the central locking button via radio signal, only three doors opened, and the passenger door button was still down. Only after locking and unlocking again did the right door unlock. It wasn't a coincidence; it was a pattern. That's the only way I could get the right door to open.
That's why I suspect that something was frozen and could only thaw when it was reopened. The cause must be located in the lock mechanism.
At much lower temperatures (-15 to -5), this phenomenon was no longer observed. It is likely due to 'dry frost,' where larger ice crystals in the lock resulted in poorer adhesion.
I didn't repair or replace anything because I always managed to open the door using a specific method.
Starting this year, hopefully this problem will no longer occur, as my Golf will spend the winter in a heated underground garage.

Has anyone else encountered this problem?

Best regards, Georg.

I'm also experiencing the same issue. One morning, the driver's door also showed the same problem. After that, I was planning to have it checked, but then it got significantly colder, and the error was no longer detectable...

Conclusion: Same problem, no solution.

Hi,

I had the same problem (driver's side).
Funny side effect: the car locked itself again...
The drama ended with a 'click,' indicating (mechanical activation).
with the key) the interior of the castle opened .

At VW, I was informed that the lock cylinder and eccentric are now...
would have been designed to be significantly more stable.

Parts required per page:
Eccentric 1H0 837 223 B.
Lock cylinder 1H0 837 061 G or 1H0 837 061 H (depending on the system).
Part number 1H0 837 237 D.

Cost: approximately 13 EUR per page.

Although the fundamental mechanical structure hasn't changed,
My lock hasn't refrozen since then (it's been about three years).

Best regards, Rudi.

"Cylinder lock"

I don't have any more! I only have one left, the one on the tailgate (as an entry point).

So, they can't freeze solid .

"Nevertheless, thank you for the numbers."

Could it be that the SAFE-LOCK, or whatever it's called, freezes? These are powerful electromagnets that hold the buttons at the bottom in place. If the contact surfaces (magnet to iron) are wet, the SAFE-LOCK can freeze, which means it unlocks more easily than intended.

m;

I had a very similar problem with my girlfriend's Polo. The cause was moisture in the lock (not the door lock). After removing it, drying it out, and applying new lubricant, the problem disappeared. It was quite a complicated job, but it was worth it.

@martin

'The 'Safelock' is actually activated by the pump, right? Your central locking system on the Golf is the same as on the 35i, which is pneumatic...'

Okay, I have the pneumatic power steering.

But I thought the pump had magnets that would engage immediately because it was too slow, and then the pump would start up.

If you try to pull the levers, they are held very tightly in place, WITHOUT the pump starting.

m;

DocSnydor wrote:

Isn't the "Safelock" function actually controlled by the pump?

Your central locking system on the Golf is the same as on the 35i, namely pneumatic...

dieselmartin wrote:

Yes, I think so too. At least, in my case, it seems to be caused by the pneumatic cylinder.

"Schliesszylinder" ????

I don't have any more! I only have one left, the one on the tailgate (as an entry point) .
Did you not clear it away, though? }

wolfi_b wrote:

Did you not clear that away?

I have two rear grab handles installed in the front.

Because the door lock cylinders were already damaged (the locking plates were missing, and the slot was already full of debris), and since I have central locking with a folding key fob...

m;

dieselmartin wrote:

Because the door lock cylinders were already damaged (the locking plates were missing, and the slot could easily fill up with debris), and since I have central locking with a folding key fob...

And what do you do when the car doesn't cooperate, even if it's just because the battery is dead?

Breaking into your own car, or nailing the doors shut...

@ulf

dieselmartin wrote:

I only have one left, the one on the tailgate (as a door handle).

wolfi_b wrote:

@ulf dieselmartin wrote: I only have one left, the one on the tailgate (as a door handle).

Since my van has to serve as a camper, I'm planning to install an interior handle on the rear door sometime before next summer, so I can get *out* of it, not just *in*.



Do those SAFE-LOCK magnets that I described actually exist, or not?

On the other hand, I probably have to remove the lock anyway, so I can search for them myself .

m;

I have two rear grab handles installed in the front.


I did the same thing on my car. Apparently, you can easily unlock VWs with a 'Polish key,' but that immediately deactivates the central locking system. However, I left the tailgate lock enabled as a backup.

Because the door lock cylinders were already damaged (the locking plates were missing, and the slot could easily fill up with debris), and since I have central locking with a folding key fob...
And what do you do when the car doesn't cooperate, even if it's just because the battery is dead?


Simply put: For cars with a dead battery, an additional power connection is installed (in a discreet location) to provide external power.

Otherwise, the central locking system on models like the Golf III/Passat 35i etc. doesn't typically have any issues with the same pneumatic system.

Best regards, WarLord.