Mass theft of 1.9 and 2.5 TDI engines from pre-model Audi vehicles

From my own experience: someone simply drove my modified 2.5 TDI Audi, which I had listed on Carprot, away to Russia. Do not trigger the alarm system or the immobilizer!
Here's how they proceed: As usual, they pick the driver's lock with a screwdriver by breaking off the retaining tabs. By activating the central locking system, the alarm system is also deactivated. This gives the thieves time to use a code scanner (available on the black market in Poland/Hungary for 250,-) to deactivate the WFS (Vehicle Security System) and to pick the ignition lock as described above.
The effect: the Russian/Lithuanian customer thinks their key fits the new car, but they might as well be driving with a piece of wood.

Solution: Disconnect the central locking connectors on all doors that can be locked, and only use the remote central locking system. Then the alarm will sound when unlocking the car normally.
If you are interested, please send a brief email inquiry (and we may follow up with a phone call).

wolfman2 wrote:

Bitte gib den Text an, den du übersetzt haben möchtest. This gives the thieves time to use a code scanner (available on the black market in Poland/Hungary for 250,-) to deactivate the WFS (Vehicle Security System) and to pick the ignition lock as described above. Bitte gib den Text an, den du übersetzt haben möchtest.

Hi everyone,

Does this mean, in plain terms, that the achievement of the WFS (does anyone know more about the basic function of the code scanner?) is practically no longer an obstacle from the perspective of car thieves, and that the time it takes until the car can be driven away is only slightly longer than with the old "simple short-circuiting" method?

I can't quite picture it.

It naturally depends on what type of transponder they are using.

'But even with inexpensive parts (from Conrad-Electronic), there are already 4 billion different codes in use. Try testing all of those in a reasonable amount of time.'

'And I don't think software developers are that naive and wouldn't recognize a brute-force scan. As far as I recall, the system simply stops responding after a certain number of failed attempts.'

It would be much simpler to log in through the diagnostic interface and learn a foreign transponder. The serial numbers can be read out, and generating a 7-pin code is not really a problem. As you know, in Russia, you can find everything...

CU Gremlin.

The trick is that the thieves gain time because the alarm system (I believe up to model A6 '99) is deactivated, so it doesn't make any noise. This has absolutely nothing to do with the immobilizer! Newer models require that a properly coded key be inserted into the ignition within 15/30 seconds after opening the driver's door. That's where it gets tricky!
In my opinion, the code query of the WFS (Wireless Fault System) can only function by reading the 'resonance' of the code chip in the key handle via the reading coil that surrounds the key cylinder insertion slot. However, such resonance frequencies can be generated and potentially read. I can't (want to) explain the details of how it works, otherwise there will soon be a German scanner production line here as well.
However, radio frequency/infrared codes are much more secure. They use 10-digit codes, have a random mechanism for changing validity, and can be blocked for a defined period of time in case of incorrect input (meaning no scanning is possible!). Radio eavesdropping (recording/filtering/transmitting) devices are of little use and/or prohibitively expensive (over €60,000) for our electrical equipment.

My conclusion, which I have now implemented: A second alarm system is needed, one that disrupts essential services (not just the ignition/diesel fuel line: how about the two red-and-white positive voltage lines of the fuel injection control unit, or something similar?). I chose the 'Defender' from CarGuard (155 Euros) because, thanks to the disconnected control lines of the door locking system, I can now also control the car's own alarm system and the central locking system. In addition, the package includes a highly sensitive, two-stage vibration sensor (which also provides an alarm in case of damage caused by car doors in supermarket parking lots or in cases of towing/theft).
My experience with car theft certainly only resulted in a loss of more than €10,000 once (considering the actual value versus the insurance valuation, and also including personal belongings in the car).

I had a similar experience last year in Hungary, when it happened to my 2000 Volkswagen Bora Highline PD.

No alarm system, no traces, no one saw anything.

I've heard that they either pick the lock or, using laptops and specialized software (around €8000 in Hungary), intercept the radio signal of the key fob and use it to unlock the vehicle.
(Therefore, in this case, it's pointless to disconnect the wires at the locks.)

The WFS (Wireless Fidelity System) is bypassed through the diagnostic ports, and the entire process likely takes only a few seconds. To bystanders, it appears as if the normal owner is driving away.

I was thinking of installing a (hidden, but easily accessible) switch that would allow me to manually interrupt the power supply to the control unit. (It's quite simple; there's usually a separate relay for that).
While this also doesn't prevent towing, and no one will respond to the alarm, at least the car is immobilized, making theft more difficult.

'Shit happens,' and right now, VW and Audi are extremely popular down there...

Stefan.

Subject: Here, I would like to present the following proposed solution for discussion:

When the 'ignition' is turned on, codescanners continuously output an incrementally increasing numerical code through inductive coupling. When the correct code is entered, the starter engages and the engine starts. Unfortunately, Audi, at least before 1999, failed to program a mandatory pause, for example, of 1 minute, after an incorrect entry. This would cause large areas to be missed during the scan.

I built a small timer (2 Euros) that restarts every time the 'ignition' is turned on, and it shuts off via a small relay (diesel pre-glow: 10 seconds / gasoline: 3 seconds). The relay should interrupt one pole of the reading coil, making further reading impossible. The car thief won't notice the interruption of the reading process, while the scanner can continue counting endlessly! (The code query only happens once). If you're ever not quick enough to start the engine, don't worry, just turn it off, then on, and start it.
If you are interested in the schematic (NE555 on a breadboard, simple), please send an email.

wolfman2 wrote:

Upon being switched on, codescanners continuously output an incrementally increasing numerical code through inductive coupling. When the correct conditions are met, the starter engages and the engine starts.

Hm, in the Golf 3, the starter motor can always be activated (even with a key without a transponder). The WFS (presumably a system or device) only shuts down the already running engine again after approximately 1 second, but only in the event of an error.

According to this, it seems that the WFS only requests the key code after the engine has started. And if something incorrect is detected, will the engine be shut down again?
Does that mean that the motor has to be started for each individual code that is tried?
It would certainly be noticeable (and would cost the thief a lot of time) if a car, for example, was started 135 times (apparently) for very short periods, until the 136th time. Sometimes the code works and the car can finally be driven away... assuming the battery and starter motor can actually handle the strain!

Or am I wrong in my assumption about the fundamental way this WFS system works?

I've also been thinking about that button that cuts off the power supply to the ECU... it's actually a good idea, but please make sure it has a latching mechanism so you don't accidentally turn off the ECU while driving. While I'm not really an expert on this, I can imagine that the STG (Steuergeräte) would take that pretty badly.

Merlin.

I don't think the control unit will be affected much; it should survive the faulty 109 relays, which are also known to cause problems with the power supply. However, the driver might not have a good experience.

Just imagine you're speeding down a country road, about to overtake someone, and then the engine control unit suddenly fails...

Best regards,

Jan.

ok, that's an argument,...........

@Rainer:

The code will be checked beforehand. If I try to start my Passat with a key that is not registered, the engine will shut off again. If I turn on the ignition with a registered key nearby, the car will also start with a key that is not registered.

Best regards.
Ronny.

Hello,

Okay, so, about six months ago, my Clarion radio was stolen from my Golf3 AFN. It happened in Ulm, at the university parking lot, sometime between 12:00 PM and 1:30 PM. They simply broke into the car! Okay, the lock was broken afterwards, but in 3 out of the 5 cars they broke into, the lock was still working! Did they use a screwdriver or something to do it? There wasn't even a single scratch on the outside of my lock!
It made me feel quite bloated , and the radio was really expensive!!!!

Here's a solution to prevent theft: Disconnect the fuel injector connector each time, or use a switch (see '10cent Tuning') to disconnect it. This works in 99% of cases. Of course, something like that is not useful against towing or carjacking.

Hello everyone,
Even though the thread is quite old, I would like to revisit it for a current reason.
Since my Golf 3 TDI was stolen, and I don't want to risk having the same thing happen to my current Golf 4.

Quote:

Solution: Disconnect the central locking connectors on all doors that can be locked, and only use the remote central locking system. Then, when you unlock the door normally, an alarm will sound. If you are interested, please send a brief email inquiry (and we may follow up with a phone call).

I tried to send wolfman2 a private message, but unfortunately, I haven't received a response yet.

Does anyone else perhaps know exactly which type of connector is being referred to?
And: Does this generate an error code in the diagnostic memory?

What else can be done to make theft more difficult?
I hope someone can give me a helpful tip.

Quote:

I was thinking of installing a (hidden, but easily accessible) switch that would allow me to manually interrupt the power supply to the control unit. (It's quite simple; there's usually a separate relay for that).

Not a bad idea, but: Where should we put the switch? It needs to be easily accessible for everyday use, but not visible. And: Which cables can you disconnect without endangering yourself?

Quote:

I don't think the control unit is likely to be affected, as it should survive the faulty 109 relays, which can also cause problems with the power supply, but the driver might not be happy with the situation.

Quote:

Here's a solution to prevent theft: Disconnect the fuel injector connector each time, or use a switch (see "10cent Tuning") to disconnect it.

I would disconnect the fuel injector plug if I were going on vacation and the car would be parked for two weeks. But for everyday driving, it's probably impractical, unless it's equipped with a manual transmission (but where would you put that?).


Regards,
gromit

Hi,

If someone wants your car, they'll take it; and you'll definitely never see it again. Charge and go.

What Wolfman means: From each lock in every door, there's a cable running to the control unit. This cable tells the control unit whether the car has been unlocked. If you now interrupt this line, the control unit will *always* think that the car is locked. If you open a door, the control unit assumes a break-in has occurred and triggers the alarm.
Even if you unlock the car using the remote control, the alarm will not be triggered. Reason: The radio module disables the alarm system.
In summary: The door can only be unlocked without triggering the alarm if the car was previously unlocked using the remote control.

Regarding the switch: I would disconnect the power supply to the engine control unit. Another diesel that won't start. It doesn't make much sense to steal it.
However, vigilant neighbors are even better: If a thief has a painful accident while attempting a theft, and no one saw it, word of it spreads within the "criminal underworld" .

Regards,
Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"Micha"

Okay, the lock was broken afterwards, but in 3 out of the 5 cars that were broken into, the lock was still intact! Did they use a screwdriver or something to open them? There wasn't even a single scratch on the outside of my lock!
It made me feel quite bloated , and the radio was really expensive!!!!

On the Golf 3 and Golf 4, the door opening mechanism uses what is called a 'pole key.'
This is a specially modified blank key to which a lever is welded on the back, similar to a tow hook.

By forcefully turning the key, the internal mechanism of the lock cylinder breaks, triggering the alarm and activating the central locking system.

This is what happened to me: Volkswagen Golf 3.

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To my mother: G4 with alarm, VW navigation system stolen (this reappeared on eBay in Berlin, 700km away, 3 weeks later).

Best regards,