TDI Theft: Audi 1.9 & 2.5 Models Targeted

From my own experience: someone simply drove away my modified 2.5 TDI Audi from the parking lot, straight to Russia. There was no alarm triggered, and the immobilizer didn't prevent it!
Here's how they proceed: As usual, they pick the driver's lock with a screwdriver by breaking off the retaining clips. By interacting with the central locking system, the alarm system is also deactivated. This gives the thieves time to use a code scanner (available on the black market in Poland/Hungary for 250,-) to disable the vehicle's immobilizer and pick the ignition lock as described above.
The effect: the Russian/Lithuanian customer thinks their key fits the new car, but they might as well be driving a stick of wood.

Solution: Disconnect the central locking connectors on all doors that can be locked, and only use the remote central locking system. This will trigger the alarm when you normally unlock the doors.
If you are interested, please send a brief email inquiry (and we may follow up with a phone call).

wolfman2 wrote:

Bitte gib mir den deutschen Text, den du übersetzt haben möchtest. This gives the thieves time to use a code scanner (available on the black market in Poland/Hungary for 250,-) to deactivate the WFS (Vehicle Security System) and to pick the ignition lock as described above. Bitte gib mir den deutschen Text, den du übersetzt haben möchtest.

Hi everyone,

Does this mean, in plain terms, that the achievement of the WFS (does anyone know more about the basic function of the code scanner?) is practically no longer an obstacle from the perspective of car thieves, and that the time it takes until the car can be driven away is only slightly longer than the old "simple short-circuiting" method?

I can't quite picture it.

It naturally depends on what type of transponder they are using.

'But even with inexpensive parts (from Conrad-Electronic), there are already 4 billion different codes in use. Try testing all of those in a reasonable amount of time.'

'And I don't think software developers are that naive and wouldn't recognize a brute-force scan. As far as I recall, the system simply stops responding after a certain number of failed attempts.'

It would be much easier to log in through the diagnostic interface and learn a foreign transponder. The serial numbers can be read out, and generating a 7-pin code is not really a problem. You know, in Russia, you can find everything...

CU Gremlin.

Der Gag ist ja, daß die Typen Zeit gewinnen, weil die Alarmanlage (ich glaube bis A6 '99) ausgeschaltet wird, also keinen Lärm macht. Mit der Wegfahrsperre hat das überhaupt nichts zu tun! Neuere Modelle verlangen, daß ein gültig codierter Schlüssel z.B. innerhalb von 15/30 Sekunden nach Öffnen der Fahrertür in das Zündschloß gesteckt wird. Da wird'Then it becomes difficult!
In my opinion, the code query of the WFS can only function by reading the 'resonance' of the code chip in the key handle via the reading coil that surrounds the key cylinder insertion slot. However, such resonance frequencies can be generated and potentially read. I will not explain in detail how it works, otherwise there will soon be a German scanner production here.
However, radio frequency/infrared codes are much more secure. They use 10-digit codes, have a random mechanism for changing validity, and can lock out users for a defined period in case of incorrect input (thus preventing scanning!). Radio frequency interception, recording, filtering, and transmission devices are of little use or prohibitively expensive (over €60,000) for our electrical systems.

My conclusion, which I have now implemented: A second alarm system is needed, one that disrupts essential services (not just the ignition/diesel fuel line: how about the two red and white high-voltage lines of the fuel injection control unit, for example?). I chose the 'Defender' from CarGuard (155 Euros) because, thanks to the disconnected control lines of the door locking system, I can also control the car's own alarm system and the central locking system. In addition, it includes a highly sensitive, two-stage vibration sensor (so it also triggers an alarm in case of damage caused by car doors in supermarket parking lots or during towing/theft).
My experience with car theft has, at the very least, resulted in a single loss of over €10,000 (actual value versus insurance valuation, and items inside the car).

I had a similar experience last year in Hungary, when it happened to my 2000 Volkswagen Bora Highline PD.

No alarm system, no traces, no one saw anything.

I've heard that they either pick the lock or use laptops and specialized software (around €8000 in Hungary) to intercept the radio signal of the key fob and unlock the vehicle.
(Therefore, in this case, it is pointless to disconnect the wires at the locks.)

The WFS (Wireless Fidelity System) is bypassed through the diagnostic lines; the entire process likely takes only a few seconds, and to anyone standing nearby, it appears as if the normal owner is driving away.

I was thinking of installing a (hidden, but easily accessible) switch that would allow me to manually interrupt the power supply to the control unit. (It's quite simple; there's usually a separate relay for that.)
While this doesn't prevent towing, and no one will respond to the alarm, at least the car is immobilized, making theft more difficult.

'Shit happens,' and right now, VW and Audi are extremely popular down there...

Stefan.

Subject: Code Scanner - I would like to propose the following solution for discussion:

Code scanners continuously output an incrementally increasing numerical code after being activated. When the correct code is entered, the starter engages and the engine starts. Unfortunately, Audi, at least before 1999, failed to program a mandatory pause, for example, of 1 minute, after an incorrect entry. This would cause large sections of the code to be skipped.

I built a small timer (costing 2 euros) that restarts every time the 'ignition' is turned on. It uses a small relay to switch off after a set time (10 seconds for diesel pre-glow / 3 seconds for gasoline). The relay interrupts one pole of the reading coil, making further reading impossible. The car thief won't notice the interruption, while the scanner can continue counting endlessly! (The code query only happens once). If you're not quick enough to start the starter, it's not a problem, just turn it off, then on, and start it.
If you are interested in the schematic diagram (NE555 on a breadboard, simple), please send an email.

wolfman2 wrote:

Codescanners continuously output a sequentially increasing numerical code upon activation of the "ignition" via inductive coupling. When the correct code is entered, the starter engages and the engine starts.

Hm, in the Golf 3, the starter can always be activated (even with a key without a transponder). The WFS only shuts off the engine that has already started after about 1 second in case of an error.

Apparently, the WFS (presumably a system or component) only requests the key code after the engine has started? And if an incorrect code is entered at that point, does the engine shut down again?
Does this mean that the motor has to be started for each individual code that is tried?
It would certainly be noticeable (and would cost the thief a lot of time) if a car, for example, was (apparently) only started briefly 135 times, until on the 136th attempt the code matches and the car can finally be driven away... assuming the battery and starter even manage to make it through the "marathon"!

Or am I wrong in my assumption about the fundamental way this WFS system works?

I've also been thinking about that button that cuts off the power supply to the ECU... it's actually a good idea - but please make sure it has a latching mechanism, so you don't accidentally switch off the ECU while driving. I'm not really an expert on this, but I can imagine that the ECU might not take that very well otherwise?

Merlin.

I don't think the control unit is likely to be affected, as it should survive the faulty 109 relays, which can also cause problems with the power supply. However, the driver might not have a good experience.

Just imagine you're speeding down a country road, about to overtake someone, and then the engine control unit suddenly fails...

Best regards,

Jan.

ok, that's an argument,...........

@Rainer:

The code is checked beforehand. If I try to start my Passat with a key that is not registered, the engine will shut off again. However, if I have a registered key nearby when I turn on the ignition, the car will start even with the unregistered key.

Best regards,
Ronny.

Hello,

Okay, so about six months ago, my Clarion radio was stolen from my Golf 3 AFN. It happened in Ulm, at the university parking lot, sometime between 12:00 PM and 1:30 PM. They simply broke into the car! Okay, the lock was damaged afterward, but in three out of the five cars they broke into, the lock was still working! Did they use a screwdriver or something? There wasn't even a scratch on the outside of my lock!
It made me feel quite bloated , and the radio was really expensive!!!!

Here's a solution to prevent theft: Disconnect the fuel injector connector each time, or use a switch (see '10cent Tuning') to disconnect it. This works in 99% of cases. Of course, this won't prevent towing or carjacking.

Hello everyone,
Even though the thread is quite old, I would like to revisit it for a current reason.
Since my Golf 3 TDI was stolen, and I don't want to risk having the same thing happen to my current Golf 4.

Quote:

Solution: Disconnect the central locking connectors on all doors that can be locked, and only use the remote central locking system. This will trigger the alarm when you normally unlock the car. If you are interested, please send a brief email inquiry (and we may follow up with a phone call).

I tried to send wolfman2 a private message, but unfortunately, I haven't received a response yet.

Does anyone else perhaps know exactly which type of connector is being referred to?
And: Does this generate an error code in the diagnostic system?

What else can be done to make theft more difficult?
I hope someone can give me a helpful tip.

Quote:

I was thinking of installing a (hidden, but easily accessible) switch that would allow me to manually interrupt the power supply to the control unit. (It's quite simple; there's usually a separate relay for that).

Not a bad idea, but: Where do you put the switch? It needs to be easily accessible for everyday use, but not visible. And: Which wires do you interrupt without putting yourself in danger?

Quote:

I don't think the control unit is likely to fail, as it should survive the faulty 109 relays, which can also cause problems with the power supply. However, the driver might not have a good experience.

Quote:

A solution to prevent theft: Disconnect the fuel injector connector each time, or use a switch (see "10cent Tuning") to disconnect it.

I would disconnect the fuel injector connector if I were going on vacation and the car wouldn't be driven for two weeks. However, it's probably not practical for everyday use, unless there's a switch (but where would you put it?).


Best regards,
gromit

Hi,

If someone wants your car, they'll take it; and you'll definitely never see it again. (Grab and go - charge it and take it away.)

What Wolfman means: From each lock in every door, a cable runs to the control unit. This cable informs the control unit whether the car has been unlocked. If you now interrupt this cable, the control unit will *always* think that the car is locked. If you then open a door, the control unit assumes a break-in and triggers the alarm.
Even if you unlock the car using the remote control, the alarm will not be triggered. This is because the radio module deactivates the alarm system.
In summary, the door can only be unlocked without triggering the alarm if the car was previously unlocked using the remote control.

Regarding the switch: I would disconnect the power supply to the engine control unit: Another diesel that won't start. It doesn't make much sense to steal it.
However, vigilant neighbors are even better: If a thief has a painful accident while attempting a theft, and no one saw it, word of it spreads within the "trade" .

Regards,
Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"Micha"

Okay, the lock was broken afterwards, but in 3 out of the 5 cars that were broken into, the lock was still intact! Did they use a screwdriver or something to open them? There wasn't even a scratch on my lock!
It made me feel quite bloated , and the radio was really expensive!!!!

For the Golf 3 and Golf 4, the door opening mechanism uses what is called a 'pole key.'
This is a specially modified blank key to which a lever is welded on the back, similar to a car jack.

By forcibly turning the key, the internal mechanism of the lock cylinder breaks, triggering the alarm and activating the central locking system.

That's exactly what happened to me: a Volkswagen Golf 3.

Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

'wie auch:'

'as well as:'

To my mother: G4 with alarm, VW navigation system stolen (this reappeared on eBay in Berlin, 700km away, 3 weeks later).

Best regards,