Was genau bringt eingentlich die Vorwärmung beim PÖLen ? | Posts 16+

@dieselmartin:
Does that mean it will also start properly in cold weather?
I'll check with my car club to see if they can do that.
How does the engine behave during a cold start when running on pure diesel?
(e.g., during winter operation?)


I haven't had the preheating button installed for very long.
However, based on how things feel, it doesn't really make much of a difference with the current temperatures.
(Only fills up to a maximum of 40-50% with petrol, the rest is diesel in the tank.)
Can anyone confirm this?

I am currently driving with 50% brightness WITHOUT the force-glow-button .

The engine starts with a slight delay when the temperature is between 14-18 degrees Celsius (garage temperature).

At 7.5 degrees Celsius (outside temperature), the engine was already struggling to start: It took several attempts and a tractor-like increase in engine speed to get it going. But the battery is no longer as fresh (it's 11 years old).

70% also performed very poorly during cold starts at higher temperatures, but it was still manageable.

m;

Hi.

70% also performed very poorly during cold starts at higher temperatures, but were still manageable.
Do you still have old nozzles installed? I was also running with 70% ethanol in my fuel mixture until recently. The lowest temperature I experienced when starting the engine, during this unusually warm August , was about 7 degrees Celsius. The engine idling time with 70% ethanol generally lasted about 1 to 2 revolutions longer than with a lower ethanol mixture, but it was largely independent of the outside temperature. However, I always had 'force-glow' enabled .

I'll check with my car club to see if they can do that.
They might recommend using a starter fluid like Start-Pilot or they might directly refer you to a Bosch service center.

Arno wrote the following:
They'll either recommend using a starter fluid like 'Start-Pilot' to get it started, or they'll immediately refer you to a Bosch service center.



At the service center I trust, they can adjust the fuel injection pumps.
(Like with a proper diagnostic computer and all that...)
And one of the emergency vehicles has been professionally converted to operate on PÖL (compressed natural gas).


That's why I think it makes perfect sense to inquire about it.



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I've heard about the nozzles before, that you should only use them once.
should be exchanged, or that they should be newly installed, so that the spray pattern is...
fits again.

Does anyone have an idea of what kind of costs we should expect?

What's the reason for the increased opening pressure?
Does it also put more strain on the pump, or what?!

At the service center I trust, they can adjust the fuel injection pumps.
(Like with a proper diagnostic computer and all that...)
And one of the operational vehicles has been (professionally) converted for use by the Public Order Police.

Oops, if that's true, I take everything back and claim the opposite . I didn't know they were that advanced.

Does anyone have an idea about what costs to expect?
Take a look around the shop or ask the boss yourself .

@ arno

The nozzles are quite new.

But, a 2-tank system has the advantage of extending the range. Then I can put the "B52" label with VW letters on the back. R32 is just boring.

m;

@ arno & dieselmartin

Assuming you're talking about diesel engines, how often do you change the engine oil? I would be too anxious to use a manual pencil sharpener.

Hello.

The oil change interval is every 10,000 kilometers. During this period, the oil level continuously decreases, partly due to a slightly leaky oil pan. I experienced the same oil consumption when the vehicle was running on diesel, so I can rule out excessive oil entering the combustion chamber. On the other hand, this also occasionally adds a certain amount of fresh oil.

I would be too anxious to use a manual pencil sharpener...
I always thought I was the same, but then you read about what some people give their dogs as mixtures, and you realize you're not. 'Radical' frugality is not my goal .

But a 2-tank system has the advantage of extending the range.
That is correct. Purely mathematically, with an additional auxiliary fuel tank, I would be able to travel over 2500 kilometers without stopping for fuel .

@dieselmartin:

I visited my car club's service center today, and I inquired about...
regarding the adjustment of my single-injection fuel pump.
The technician there said they can adjust it, but he can't.
focus solely on the 'target values' specified by the vehicle manufacturer.
Or alternative values, which I need to specify to him.

Unfortunately, he couldn't make any sense of the phrase 'an die obere Line stellen.'

You can also add your own mark to the pump housing (if it has a single-piece impeller) and then rotate the pump about 1 mm earlier (towards the crankshaft). If no error message appears within the next 5000 km, such as 'ignition timing control difference' or something similar (I don't know the exact wording), then it's probably still within the tolerance range.

If you need instructions on how to do something, let me know, and I'd be happy to write them for you .

Quote:

He unfortunately couldn't make sense of the statement "put it on the top line."

Then he has never properly adjusted or inspected a TDI engine according to regulations!

These diagrams are provided by VW, so they are not specific to any particular forum or modification.

For me, that would have been the first and last time I visited that store - unless I were to give a training session for a lot of money: "What is a TDI and where can I put my sausage fingers on it - Adjustment procedures for various TDIs."

m;

Have I understood that correctly?

The yellow crosses indicate the actual values.
Blue = Target value.
Green = the actual value must be (slightly) below the target value.
then the setting will be correct for PÖL.

Or is that perhaps too much of a deviation?

Let's leave out the colors for now (because they can change).

There are three lines and one or more points.

Points: Current or "recently" measured values.
Lines: Mitte - perfect, ideal.
Above: early, but still electronically controlled and perfectly adjustable.
below: late, but still electronically controlled and perfectly adjustable.

Outside: The electronics can't handle this anymore :> Mechanical correction required == twisting the pump.

Since there isn't enough internal pressure in the pump at the start, the electronics can't really do much yet, so with the Poel system, the pump is often adjusted mechanically in advance. In the workplace, everything runs "as usual."

m;

My tractor has so far started anywhere from 50-70% of the time. At around 7 degrees Celsius and 50% humidity, the battery has been struggling quite a bit. I didn't adjust anything - it's perfectly centered.

@dieselmartin: You have the AFN injectors installed, right? Has the cold start performance worsened as a result of this?

Do I have AFN nozzles installed?

Unfortunately, I don't have any real experience with which nozzles work better.

m;

@Nebelwerfer TDI:

I don't think I need instructions, but I would like to know exactly...
I know which screws I need to loosen.
'I'm knowledgeable about electronics and computers, but not about mechanics.'
Unfortunately.

Maybe you could take some pictures?


My question about how close I could now place the pump remained largely unanswered.
set to the upper limit.