Vorglühlampe blinkt während der Fahrt - und geht wieder aus? | Posts 16+

No.
If you press the accelerator and then brake at the same time, the electric power will be cut off.
The reason is: if the gas pedal gets stuck and you want to brake.
Does the brake signal cut off the power?
So that you don't have to reduce the engine power unnecessarily as well.

To make things even more confusing:

If you keep your foot on the brake while simultaneously pressing the accelerator, your wish will be granted, and the engine will start pulling again despite the braking!
That's perfectly normal and right!

Okay, I understand now.

So, is it harmless?

Best regards from Haza.

Well, if the gas pedal gets stuck at 100%, there's nothing you can do with the brake pedal except apply full braking force – and if that's harmless, then enjoy your 160 horsepower flight.

Install that thing, otherwise the electricity for the computer will become more expensive than the switch itself .
minusfingerzuck

Mensch Klausi... Verwirr ihn nicht auch noch mehr!

Inverstier halt bitteschön die 7 EUR für einen NEUEN und originalen Bremslichtschalter und fertig, bevor wir hier noch 5x hin und her schreiben!
Besides the annoying flickering of the preheating light, you will no longer be able to detect or distinguish a real fault in the engine control unit (ECU), and – even worse – you will also ignore it.

Best regards!

Genau jetzt verwirrt mich ned so klausi und bärli!

I'm definitely going to change the tires on Monday anyway, but I just wanted to know if I can make it through the weekend without any problems, or if I'll be careening into the next forest with 160 unbridled horsepower *lol*.

Best regards from Haza.

Ja, kommst Du - keine Sorge.

But be careful!
Im Bier sind weibliche Hormone!! Did you know that?
Because if you drink too much of it, you'll talk a lot of nonsense and won't be able to drive anymore *dirty laugh*.

Braking is possible - so until Monday, .

Hello,
I was informed that my brake light is no longer working (completely out). Also, the indicator light has been flashing for some time, but I assumed it was due to a faulty ESP system. Now, I suspect that it might be related to the brake light issue.

First, I checked the fuse for the brake light circuit -> it's okay. Now, I need to delve deeper into the issue, and I came across this thread. Unfortunately, I only understand part of this well-reasoned explanation.

Just a quick note about the brake light switch:
When you press the brake pedal, information is transmitted via a (2-pole button, 1 normally open contact, 1 normally closed contact... I think) to both the main control unit (MSG) and the braking control unit. The brake lights also illuminate at this time, but its primary function here is to monitor whether the information from the ELECTRONIC accelerator pedal is plausible or not.
Was weiter zwischen MSG und Bremsensteuergerät überwacht wird, ist der BremsDRUCK in der Leitung. Wenn Du auf die Bremse drückst, muß auch Bremsdruck aufgebaut werden.

Bitte gib mir den deutschen Text, den du übersetzt haben möchtest. Ich werde ihn dann ins Englische übersetzen und dir nur die Übersetzung geben.

- Is the brake light triggered by one of the two pedal sensors or by the brake pressure sensor?
- Is the brake light directly switched by one of the three switching contacts, or indirectly via a switching transistor in the brake control unit?
- Is there any redundancy in the brake light activation system, meaning that if, for example, the brake pressure sensor fails, are the brake lights still controlled by the pedal sensor?

I'm going to check the light bulbs first, but it's very unlikely that all three lights failed at the same time.

Thank you in advance for any advice and tips.

I've already answered some of the questions myself.

I first tested the lower sensor, and it was a direct hit: there was no continuity whatsoever (regardless of whether it was activated or deactivated).
Then I measured the voltage across the contact: it was equal to the battery voltage.
Then I bypassed the connector with an ammeter, and lo and behold, it was flowing 4A -> This means the brake lights are directly connected to this contact.

Das halte ich angesichts der 3-fachen Bremsbetätigungsüberwachung für eine sehr fahrlässige Konstruktion von VAG, da es billigend in Kauf genommen wird, daß die enorm wichtigen Bremsleuchten bereits beim Versagen dieses einen einzigen Kontakts nicht mehr arbeiten! Ich dachte, bei sicherheitskritischen Schaltungen sei Redundanz im Zeitalter der OBD Standard - wohl aber nur in der Luft- und Raumfahrt. In this context, redundancy would mean that the braking control unit activates not only a mechanical contact but also an electronic switch in parallel.
If someone had spilled something on me while I was on the highway, I would have been in trouble because of this mess .

Okay, I've disassembled the switch, and it turns out that the contact bridge is misaligned because one of the locking tabs on the plastic slider has worn away over time. The large return spring (not visible in the picture) was no longer able to push the contact bridge straight enough to ensure both contacts close.

I can't imagine that this construction has ever been durability-tested (operated by a pneumatic cylinder once per second, for thousands of hours in the lab). One of the tiny protrusions will inevitably shear off eventually, as the lugs of the contact bridge are constantly working against it and rubbing.

I have one more question: Is the signal from this contact being processed in any way, or is it simply a switch contact for controlling lights?

Thank you & best regards.

Hello Arosa!

SeatArosa1.7SDI wrote:

Questions about the text: - Is the brake light triggered by one of the two pedal sensors or by the brake pressure sensor? - Is the brake light directly controlled by one of the three switching contacts, or indirectly via a switching transistor in the brake control unit? - gibt es bei der Auslösung des Bremslichts eine Redundanz, d.h., wenn z.B. der Bremsdruckgeber ausfällt, werden die Bremslichter über die Pedalgeber gesteuert?

1.) Where in my text does it say that the brake pressure sensor has anything to do with the brake light? This explains the question itself.
2.) Where in my text does it state that there are THREE "switching contacts"? If you read carefully, you will see that there are TWO "pushbutton contacts," which result in 3 connection pins.
3.) This question becomes irrelevant with the answer to question 1.

SeatArosa1.7SDI wrote:

Das halte ich angesichts der 3-fachen Bremsbetätigungsüberwachung für eine sehr fahrlässige Konstruktion von VAG, da es billigend in Kauf genommen wird, daß die enorm wichtigen Bremsleuchten bereits beim Versagen dieses einen einzigen Kontakts nicht mehr arbeiten! Ich dachte, bei sicherheitskritischen Schaltungen sei Redundanz im Zeitalter der OBD Standard - wohl aber nur in der Luft- und Raumfahrt. In this context, redundancy would mean that the braking control unit activates not only a mechanical contact but also an electronic switch in parallel. If someone had spilled something on me while I was on the highway, I would have been in trouble because of this mess

.

I consider it a perfectly adequate design and often still better than that of other vehicle manufacturers. Um... WHO actually talked about "triple activation monitoring"? Look, you're just making things up here, where not even the basic premise corresponds to reality, and you're trying to establish a serious basis for discussion and argumentation(!) based on this?
Don't be mad at me, but... it doesn't look good .

Da "Redundanz" ein Lieblingswort von Dir zu seien scheint... Wieso keine 2. komplett "redundante" Bremsanlage??? Vielleicht noch mit 4. Pedal, falls das eigentliche Bremspedal mal abknickt?
"...personally, I would prefer a 10 kW starter motor, mounted directly to the transmission, as a redundant system in case of engine failure."

And do you know what else I don't quite understand?
The "double brake light switch" costs 7 euros!!! ...and by the way, the latter was constantly being talked about in the previous posts, and NOT about the separate ones like you have!
Okay, back to the 7 euros: How much does a single brake light switch cost? ...Definitely not 10 euros. And for that price, you're going to disassemble it, take pictures, and spout some nonsensical philosophical stuff about durability, redundancy, and manufacturing testing methods to someone who doesn't even know what they're talking about???
Wie wär's, wenn Du Dir den scheiß Bremslichtschalter einfach kaufst, ihn binnen 2 min einbaust und Dich - persönlich mal! - über den Erfolg der Fehersuche freust??

No one knows how well you maintain your car, or whether you've been harboring a breeding ground for moisture inside the passenger compartment for years, potentially covering hundreds of thousands of kilometers. I'm referring to potential humidity issues that could have caused one of the connectors to corrode over time.

Regarding your last question: I don't know the answer offhand, but there's a wiring diagram or circuit diagram for that! ...as far as I know, there isn't one. That's also why there's a SECOND "contact" - regarding redundancy .

I apologize for being blunt, but it frustrates me when someone only reads half of something, fabricates the other half, and then feels entitled to throw around "arguments."

No hard feelings, and best regards from Munich!

Keiner weiß, wie gut Du Dein Auto pflegst und ob Du eh schon seit Jahren und 100.000en km ein Biotop im Fahrgastraum mitreisen läßt? Ich spiele hier auf Feuchtigkeitseinflüsse an, welche einen der beiden Kontakte evtl. verschmoren haben lassen - im Laufe der Zeit.

Oh dear Bear, since you clearly don't measure yourself against your own standards (referring to things like reading texts thoroughly), you can always rely on my incredibly large and colorful pictures.

This allows us to determine the extent to which a specific habitat, which you assume exists, could be considered a potential cause of failure.

'And don't worry, everything is perfectly fine. The switch has been installed for 2 hours now. It looked a little bad yesterday evening, trying to find a switch so quickly.'

Sorry for peeing in the bed.

Oh yeah, and one more thing: I have nothing against your tendency to post inappropriate content, but Google should help you find forums that are more suitable for that kind of thing.

Compliments are in order; you wrote such nonsense that I, out of sheer enthusiasm, initially pressed the 'Karma+' button.

Take care.

Okay, then why don't you buy yourself an ice cream for that ?

EDIT: Due to "personal (urination) habits," I refuse to have to press any kind of karmic buttons.

Hey, I wanted to revisit this topic because I'm having trouble creating a new thread, and I'm experiencing a similar problem.

It's a 2007 Touran with a BMM engine and 173,000 km on the odometer.
Since Thursday, the check engine light has been on, the preheating lamp is flashing, and the car has lost power (limp mode?).

On Thursday, the memory was directly accessed, and the error code P0404 appeared.
Yesterday, I removed and cleaned the EGR valve because of that. A friend tried to clear the error code with VCDS, but it wouldn't work. Now, the error code P0403 is showing up.

Today, I checked the wiring and confirmed that all five cables have continuity.

I'm going to buy a cheap used EGR valve now and hope that fixes the problem.


Is there anything else I should do or could do?

I'm sorry, but I cannot access external websites or specific files online. Therefore, I am unable to translate the text from the provided URL.

https://www.ms-motorservice.com/fileadmin/media/MAM/PDF_Assets/OBD-und-Abgasr%C3%BCckf%C3%BChrung-Fehler-finden-und-beseitigen_52585.pdf

Thank you .

So, the assumption is that the EGR valve needs to be replaced, right?
I ordered a cheap used one yesterday to test it out.

I installed a new EGR valve and the error code could be cleared.
It's working great again .