Zusatzheizung Sharan | Posts 16+

Thank you for the tip.
Unfortunately, the pipe cannot be further screwed in, as it is already screwed into the pump up to the end. I know this because the pump was clogged, and I disassembled it. Now I know how to do it, but the first one broke. If you have any more tips for me, I would be very grateful, but for now, I will just drive the car so that the heater runs for half an hour. Does the heating system then automatically turn off when the engine reaches the operating temperature?
Greetings

hanys wrote:

Thank you for the tip. Unfortunately, the pipe cannot be further inserted, as it is already screwed into the pump up to the end. Does the heating system then automatically turn off when the engine reaches the operating temperature? Greetings

Yes, perhaps you have turned the wrong page?
I hope the heating turns off at 75 - 80 * degrees, it has to.
Not to drive, but to run on LL! I'll send a few more pictures shortly.
The new central metering pumps can no longer be adjusted.

If the problem isn't with the pump or the flame arrester, but with a faulty glow plug, you could also reduce the cross-section of the diesel line to the pre-heater at one point.

Regarding the "Older Versions," if the performance wasn't as expected, I could heat and bend the embedded fitting (without warranty).
I measured between 5 - 7.1 ccm, and the 3.1 kW produced less.

So, I've adjusted the pump. I forced the fitting in. It worked. The heater is still smoking more than normal. It also smells like diesel fuel, but I can still drive. I'll try it again, and maybe buy a new pump, but this time one with a fitting and a counter-nut. The light bulb must be in good condition, because the heater ignites, and I don't know about the flame protection screen, but I hope it's also in good condition.
Greetings

Yes, regarding the hope – there is still time to properly install the flame spreader, as it plays a significant role in the flame quality.
You must test the pump's performance as written! To do this, connect the discharge hose to a container, briefly flush it, then turn the heating system back on and let it run until the time has elapsed, then measure!
As you can see, I still have 3 pumps left, including one that is already attached and working.

Thank you for the quick response. Yes, it's still quite warm. Unfortunately, I've never had any experience with portable heaters before, so I have no idea how to get to the filter. Testing the pump, hmm, yes, but it only runs when the heater is on, and it turns off again if it doesn't get fuel. Also, I have the feeling that the pump clicks irregularly. Determining the flow rate per click will be difficult, and I would already need to know the frequency per minute. And I need to get those values. I might also be interested in one of your pumps, if you don't want to sell the whole thing to everyone, and if they are already calibrated, then I will definitely know whether the pump or the heating system was the problem.
Greetings

The space heater is working/running. So, disconnect the line to the heater and put a glass underneath it, then turn on the heater, and the pump will click off after the safety time has elapsed, and then it shuts off! The measurement is complete, remove the glass. Look at what they have.

The Eberspächer auxiliary heater (with 3 kW) in the T4 should have delivered a maximum of 7.8 cm³ and a minimum of 6.8 cm³ of diesel after the fuel supply is switched off, within a maximum of 90 seconds.

I assume that these values should be quite independent of the manufacturer (Webasto or Eberspächer), as the heaters don't differ that much.


But, as I said, remove the flame-proof screen and also inspect the light bulb!
If the flue filter is, for example, charred or even perforated, the furnace cannot simply burn the smoke cleanly. The same applies even when the candle can no longer generate the required temperature.


This was also due to a very overheated light bulb in combination with a broken flame retardant screen: http://golfsinnig.de/bilder/foren/DSC05006(855x570).jpg
After the parts were new, the "burning off" process, which took approximately 15 minutes, was complete. [/url]

michiglaser wrote:

The Eberspächer fuel pre-heating unit (with 3 kW) in the T4 should have delivered a maximum of 7.8 cm³ and a minimum of 6.8 cm³ of diesel after the fuel supply is switched off, within a maximum of 90 seconds. I assume that these values should be quite independent of the manufacturer (Webasto or Eberspächer), as the heaters don't differ that much.

Hello Michi,

Please excuse me for interrupting, but I wasn't aware of these sales figures and, in my opinion, they should definitely be included in a professional article. Do you have any other values from other heating systems? Do you perhaps also feel like writing a corresponding technical article?

I am personally interested in the target subsidy amount until shutdown for a ThermoTop Z/C-D with 5kW (manufactured around 2000).

Thank you and best regards.
Guste

I obtained the data from an Eberspächer document. The documents are all located on the US website of Eberspächer (espar.com).
Here are the details about both manufacturers: http://www.vw-bus-t4.de/index.php?sid=4


In 2001, Stiftung Warentest tested space heaters. In the test, it emerged that Eberspächer (at least for the then-current model) had a slightly higher fuel consumption (Google search: "warentest eberspächer webasto").
That should also be considered.