Mitdrehende Waschdüse Heckwischer (hier Golf4) | Posts 16+

teileklaus wrote:

Rotate back and forth while pulling it straight along the axis. zoooong

Thank you, it already worked with the Polo.

Bertil wrote:

At the top, there is a socket through which the brass tube is guided.

Inside this guide socket, the brass tube then corrodes and becomes stuck, eventually breaking off. }Inquiry 2:
What material is this guide bushing made of?
And how can one prevent this "festgammeln" (seizing/corrosion)? For example, by removing the nozzle and applying some oil (which kind?) between the brass tube and the hollow shaft?

ulf wrote:

... Demand 2: What material is this guide bushing made of?

Made from extremely hard metal. I sacrificed a steel drill bit in a futile attempt to make a 4mm hole, but I couldn't get through.

Quote:

And how can one prevent this "festgammeln" (sticking/seizing)? For example, by removing the nozzle and applying some oil (which kind?) between the brass tube and the hollow shaft?

That's one possibility.
Those who are willing to put in the effort can regularly disassemble the mechanism and lubricate the measuring tube with copper or ceramic paste.
This preventive measure is certainly feasible, but disassembling it at fixed intervals seems likely to be too time-consuming. Adding a drop of oil to the nozzle at fixed "maintenance intervals" would probably be the most practical approach.

Bertil wrote:

Adding a drop of oil to the washer nozzle at fixed "maintenance intervals" seems like the most practical approach.

Okay, so my syringe with the injection needle now has two new regular uses from now on.

The fact that there is virtually no lubrication on modern vehicles often takes its toll on the hinge joints of the windshield wiper arms. Eventually, these joints become so stiff that only a fraction of the spring force is applied as pressure from the wiper blade onto the windshield - and then people wonder why even new wiper blades still leave streaks on the windshield.
At those places where grease used to accumulate, I have regularly used the aforementioned syringe .

Hello there,

Last year, the front wiper linkage on my Audi needed to be replaced because it was corroded. After the rear wiper also stopped working, I simply replaced it and spent the 100 euros. Just now, I took the thing out of the trash again, and sure enough: as described, the brass tube is corroded, broken off, and the wiper motor's electronics are fried -> it's completely dead.
Initially, the nozzle started rotating (I thought it was a feature), then the rear wiper intermittently stopped working until it completely failed.
Okay, so: In addition to lubricating the front frame, you should also regularly lubricate the back (I use chain spray lubricant from the motorcycle sector, as it penetrates well and also provides excellent lubrication with MoS2). Why do they even install such junk?

Have a good evening.
Michael.

P.S. Why should the rear wiper arm break when you detach it? At least, it worked fine for me - well, the wiper nozzle was damaged afterwards, but a replacement was included with the spare part...

winschrott wrote:

... P.S. Why should the rear wiper arm break when it's being detached? ...

Because mine is completely stuck.

I did the exact same soldering procedure on my IBI two years ago.
At that time, I thought that no one else would fix the rear wiper except for me.
not even on the way.
I lubricated the brass tube with some grease before installation to delay any future corrosion.

Great post!


If the windshield wiper arm is stuck very tightly, soaking it with penetrating oil for several days might help.

Hello,
die beschriebene Lösung ist mir direkt nach dem Demontieren auch eingefallen. Hier noch eine nicht unwesentliche Verbesserung für alle dijenigen, denen das heute passiert und welche anschließend auf der Suche nach einem geeigneten Röhrchen sind. Im Campingzubehör gibt's Zündsicherungen für Gaskocher -die haben nahezu den gleichen Durchmesser (kostet ca. <10,- €), leichtes schleifen auf der Aussenseite, ein wenig aufweiten des original Röhrchens und man kann beide Teile ineinander stecken und sauber verlöten, sieht noch besser aus als auf den Bildern dieses treads. oben 2,3 cm des übrig gebliebenen Originalröhrchens anlöten um sauber in die Führung zu kommen. Hatte zufällig eine defekte Zündsicherung da, hab den inneren Draht entfernt un das äußere Röhrchen benutzt. -Ideal! Ansonsten Great tip!
Good luck.

Hallo, habe das Valeo Teil repariert, am A4. Ging 2Jahre, dann wieder das Gleiche. Habe mir nun in der Bucht ein Valeo Motor neu gekauft für ca 75€. DaI think it's okay.

See you later.

The topic being discussed here is actually quite interesting.
I actually did the same thing on my exam last week, but using a different method.
I left the nozzle firmly in place, and at the back, where the supply is connected and where water leaks through the two openings in the plastic when the windshield wipers are activated, I cut and inserted a gasket. Due to the surface pressure, it seals completely, and it still rotates beautifully.

Let's see how long it lasts.

In my case, the entire mechanism of the opener was calcified and oxidized, and there was rust in the wiper motor gearbox. I sacrificed an entire vacation day to also replace the rear hatch wiring harness at the same time, because the connector was defective.

Best regards,

'Normally, there shouldn't be any water flowing between the brass tube and the guide. I also disassembled the entire mechanism once, and in my case, there's a small O-ring located at the very top of the brass tube, where the small spray nozzle is attached. This O-ring seals the brass tube. However, the O-ring is really tiny; I almost missed it when I was disassembling it.'
I applied plenty of grease to everything and reassembled it. There are no signs of wear, even after 240,000 km.

Quote:

Normally, there shouldn't be any water flowing between the brass pipe and the guide

.

However, the pipe can become stuck inside the fitting due to corrosion, causing the pipe to shear off, and water can then spray out of the connection where it enters, leaking into the interior lining.

Best regards,

My Valeo windshield wiper blade also broke. Damn! I ordered the repair kit today for almost 36 euros.

Can anyone tell me how to completely remove the lower interior trim panel on a BMW 3 Series? I've already removed the 4 screws and everything that clips onto the body. However, the panel is still attached to the sides (the upper, tapered sides) that connect to the upper, lighter-colored panel.
Do I need to remove the top cover in order to completely remove the bottom cover?
Is the bottom part glued to the top cover on the sides?
I was only able to lift the lower part enough to identify the manufacturer of the wiper motor, and I was happy to see that it was a Valeo.
To install the replacement part, the lower panel must be completely removed.
You're welcome, haithamina.

First, the top cover needs to be removed. To do this, first unclip it on the sides, then at the top.

Hi BM,
Okay, according to the Etzold manual, it's actually the opposite (?!), so you need to remove the lower trim first, then the upper trim.

How do you detach the top part on the side? Do you pull it outwards at a right angle, away from the window, in the direction of travel? Or do you press it inwards from the sides, parallel to the glass?

"Thank you!"
haithamina

Quote:

Okay, according to the Etzold manual, it's actually described in the reverse order (?!), so first remove the lower cover, then the upper cover...

It might be possible, but it's been a long time since I disassembled something like that.

Anyway, I remember that the top cover bothered me. You'll have to experiment carefully to see which way it clips on from the side.
On my 3B5, I believe there are a few tiny retaining tabs on the lower trim piece that engage with the upper trim piece to prevent them from separating.

Whether this is also the case for the 3BG is unclear... It's not always 100% clear from the REP guidelines.