Mitdrehende Waschdüse Heckwischer (hier Golf4) | Posts 16+

teileklaus wrote:

Turn and rotate back and forth, while pulling it straight along the axis. zoooong

Thank you, it already "zoooonged" with the Polo.

Bertil wrote:

At the top end, there is a socket through which the brass tube is passed. In this guide bushing, the brass tube then corrodes and becomes stuck, eventually breaking off.

Question 2:
What material is this guide bushing made of?
And how can one prevent this kind of malfunction? For example, by removing the nozzle and applying some oil (which kind?) between the brass tube and the hollow shaft?

ulf wrote:

... Demand 2: What material is this guide bushing made of?

Made from extremely hard metal. I sacrificed a steel drill bit in a futile attempt to make a 4mm hole, but I couldn't get through.

Quote:

And how can one prevent this kind of malfunction? For example, by removing the nozzle and applying some oil (which kind?) between the brass tube and the hollow shaft?

That's one way to do it.
Those who are willing to put in the effort can regularly disassemble the mechanism and lubricate the measuring tube with copper or ceramic paste.
This preventive measure is certainly feasible, but disassembling it into fixed sections seems likely to be too time-consuming. Adding a drop of oil to the washer nozzle at fixed "maintenance intervals" seems like the most practical approach.

Bertil wrote:

Adding a drop of oil to the washer nozzle at fixed "maintenance intervals" seems like the most practical approach.

Okay, so my syringe with an injection needle now has 2 new regular uses from now on.

The fact that there is virtually no more lubrication in modern vehicles often backfires, for example, with the hinge joints of the windshield wiper arms: eventually, they become so stiff that only a fraction of the spring force is applied as pressure from the wiper blade onto the windshield - and then people wonder why even new blades always leave streaks on the windshield.
At those places that are no longer prone to excessive lubrication, I have consistently used the aforementioned syringe .

Hello,

Last year, the front wiper linkage on my Audi needed to be replaced because it was corroded. After the rear wiper also stopped working, I simply replaced it and spent the 100 euros. Just pulled that thing out of the trash again, and sure enough: the brass tube is corroded and broken off, and the wiper motor's electronics are fried -> it's completely dead.
Initially, the nozzle started rotating (I thought it was a feature), then the rear wiper intermittently stopped working until it completely failed.
So: In addition to lubricating the front frame, be sure to lubricate the rear as well regularly (I use chain spray lubricant from the motorcycle sector, as it penetrates well and also provides excellent lubrication with MoS2). Why would anyone install such junk?

Have a good evening.
Michael.

P.S. Why should the rear wiper arm break when being detached? For me, it went relatively smoothly - well, the windshield washer nozzle was broken afterward, but a replacement part was included.

winschrott wrote:

... P.S. Why should the rear wiper arm break when it's being detached? ...

Because mine is completely stuck.

I did the exact same soldering procedure on my IBI two years ago.
At that time, I thought that no one else would fix the rear wiper except for me.
not even on the way.
I lubricated the brass tube with some grease before installation to delay any future corrosion.

Great post!


If the windshield wiper arm is stuck very tightly, soaking it with penetrating oil for several days might help.

Hello,
The solution I described actually came to mind immediately after disassembling it. Here's a significant improvement for anyone who experiences this issue today and is then searching for a suitable tube. Camping supply stores sell gas stove pilot lights – they have almost the same diameter (costing around <10,- €). You can lightly file the outside, slightly widen the original tube, and then you can fit both parts together and solder them securely. It looks even better than in the pictures in this thread. Solder the remaining 2.3 cm of the original tube to the top to ensure it fits properly into the guide. I happened to have a faulty spark plug on hand, so I removed the inner wire and used the outer casing. - Perfect! Otherwise, great tip!
Good luck.

Hello, I repaired the Valeo part on my A4. It worked for 2 years, then the same problem occurred again. I now bought a new Valeo motor from eBay for about €75. I think that's okay.

See you later.

The topic being discussed here is actually quite interesting.
I did the same thing on my exam last week, but I used a different method.
I left the nozzle in place and, at the back where the supply hose connects and where water leaks through the two openings in the plastic, I cut a gasket and inserted it to prevent the leakage when the windshield wipers are activated. With its surface pressure sealing, it provides a 100% seal and continues to rotate smoothly.

Let's see how long it lasts.

The entire mechanism of the opener was calcified and oxidized, and there was rust in the wiper motor gearbox. I sacrificed an entire vacation day to replace the rear hatch wiring harness, and while I was at it, I also replaced the grommet because it was defective.

Best regards,

'Normally, there shouldn't be any water running between the brass tube and the guide. I also disassembled the entire mechanism once, and in my case, there's a small O-ring at the very top of the brass tube, where the small spray nozzle is attached. This O-ring seals the brass tube. However, the O-ring is really tiny; I almost missed it when I was disassembling it.'
I applied plenty of grease to everything and reassembled it. There are no signs of wear, even after 240,000 km.

Quote:

normally, there shouldn't be any water running between the brass pipe and the guide

.

However, the pipe can become stuck inside the fitting due to corrosion, causing the pipe to shear off, and water can then spray out of the connection where it enters, leaking into the interior lining.

Best regards,

My Valeo windshield wiper nozzle is broken too. Damn it! I ordered the replacement part today for just under 36 euros.

Can someone tell me how to completely remove the lower interior trim panel on a BMW 3 Series (G20)? I've already removed the four screws and everything that clips onto the body. However, the cladding was still attached to the (upper, tapering) sides, which connected to the upper, light-colored cladding.
Do I need to remove the upper cover to be able to completely remove the lower one?
Is the bottom part glued to the top cover on the sides?
I could only lift the lower part slightly to identify the manufacturer of the wiper motor, and I was happy to see that it was a Valeo.
To install the replacement part, the lower panel must be completely removed.
You're welcome, haithamina.

The top cover needs to be removed first. First, clip it open from the side, then from the top.

Hi BM,
Okay, according to the Etzold manual, it's actually the opposite (?!), so you need to remove the lower panel first, then the upper panel.

How do you remove the upper side panels? Do you pull them outwards at a right angle, away from the window, in the direction of travel? Or should I press them towards the center, parallel to the disc?

Thank you!
I am unable to translate "haithamina" because it does not appear to be a word or phrase in the German language. It may be a misspelling, a proper noun, or a term from a specialized field. If you can provide more context or clarify the intended meaning, I would be happy to assist you with the translation.

Quote:

Okay, according to the Etzold manual, it's actually the opposite (?!), so you need to remove the lower panel first, then the upper panel...

It's possible, but it's been a long time since I disassembled a disguise like that.

Anyway, I remember that the top cover bothered me. You'll need to experiment boldly to figure out which way it clips on the side.
Regarding my 3B5, I believe there are a few tiny retaining tabs on the lower trim piece that engage with the upper trim piece, preventing them from separating.

Is that the same case for the 3BG as well...? It's not always 100% clear from the REP guidelines.