Gehäufte NW-Schäden bei PD-Motoren? | Posts 16+

Today, I was able to remove the cylinder head of a T5 BMZ engine due to 4 broken exhaust manifold studs (2 completely embedded in the head, 2 slightly removable), the crankcase looked like new despite 311,000 km of use. The oil was 507,000, very little ash, and the air filter was original.

However, the exhaust manifold was quite discolored, having turned a light bluish color due to overheating.

Hello Bertil,

Quote:

neubaupe has written: I recently saw a discussion in this forum about the "reconstruction" of the oil circuit in PD engines... Applies to all VW engines... including the gasoline engines based on the 827 series.

Please provide the sources for your statements. (This refers to multiple posts)
I would like to see a publication from EA188 or EA113 that clearly states that only side stream filtration is used here!

Best regards, Albrecht

Okay, today I finally took a closer look at the maintenance schedule for my ASZ, with a mileage of 48,100 km.

With 4 cams, I observed elliptical patterns in the area of the tips (inlet 1, 2, and 3, outlet 4), with the most pronounced effect on cylinder 3, see appendix. The elliptical patterns on the top are also faintly discernible in the left image.
The macro shots show the whole thing in a slightly distorted and more dramatic way than it actually appears. In order to actually demonstrate what is important to me, I had to move around quite a bit with a flashlight and adjust the camera angle.

The apparent scratches/grooves in the left image generally run around the entire circumference of all cams, and IMO, they are manufacturing defects. In terms of the surface finish, all the notches tend to appear more polished, particularly at E 3.
On the other levers, the manufacturing marks are also even better visible around the tip.

If the ellipses are interpreted as worn-away micro-layers, then the wear is most pronounced in the center of the groove, i.e., the wear pattern would not be a rounded tip on the side, but rather a depression??? Please note that the "manufacturing scratches" are becoming less frequent in the direction of the ellipse's center.

According to visual inspection, the lateral chamfer is still present in its full width/height throughout. Therefore, the Nockenhub can still not be significantly reduced anywhere.

How do automotive experts interpret the images?

Hello Ulf,

I am not a motor specialist, but I could recognize this pattern (which I'm calling...).
also auch dadurch, dass sich die Hebel beim Betätigen drehen?

When I replaced the hydros on my AFN (sporadic clickers) at the time
I found the culprit on cylinder 3. The camshaft looked brand new.
and the hydraulic piston had a strange wear pattern.
It seemed as though the crankshaft was bearing more stress on the outer edges.
as interior. I could only manage it through the rotating motion of the handle.


If you like, I can take a picture of the {TOOL} for you.
I still have it in the closet.

Greetings

hame22 wrote:

It seemed as though the crankshaft was bearing more stress on the outer edges. as well as internally.

Did you also notice "wear lines" on your NW? Then they should be pointing inwards, towards the center of the cam, and not outwards, like mine

Quote:

If you want, I can take a picture of the mallet for you. I still have it in the closet.

If the shape of the top differs significantly from the photos further up, that would be interesting.

What surprises me about the story... why the entrance gates? Should the cams for the PDs not be subjected to higher loads?

mh, I'd also be interested to know what the situation is with the NW (after 172,000 km).

Do you also have a plastic valve cover and is there an instruction manual for installation, removal, and re-sealing? My engine is already starting to leak, so a new seal would be a good idea.

Additionally, my engine has only been operated exclusively with LL3 oil, excluding the initial and second fill (0w-30 LL2).

Hello Ulf, this can only come from either a rounded contour of the tip, or from a curvature of the cam surface, possibly with a central, stiff transfer surface and the outer part giving minimal.
Absolutely, this reminds me of forged layered knives, meaning: could it be that the hardened layer is somehow created inductively, resulting in multiple layers of varying hardness at different depths, and therefore creating rings?
Definitely, I would be interested in measuring the flatness of the Nockenspitze with a ruler against light, as there would have to be a larger gap on the outside of the intact nock.

Benni wrote:

What surprised me about the story... why the entrance gates? Should the cams for the PDs not be subjected to greater stress?

Yes, but on those, there are rocker levers -> the PDE cams therefore don't experience "wear due to friction"

Quote:

Well, I'd also be interested to know what the condition of my engine is after 172,000 km. Do you also have a plastic valve cover and is there an instruction manual for installation, removal, and re-sealing?

Simply remove the top of the ZR protection, unscrew all the cover screws and remove the cover. However, the rubber seal often sticks stubbornly.
It is advisable to remove the AGR unit because the back edge of the cover often gets stuck.

If the seal doesn't tear, it can be reused.
Applying a small amount of sealant at the front and back of the transition between the ZK sealing surface and the NW bearing cover is recommended, as this is otherwise a common area for leaks.

Currently, one of our members in the Mozzforum has written that it appears that only the exhaust cams are significantly worn: all 8 cams on both engines are more or less worn down (the connecting rods to them look similar to the image above), while all the EV cams and connecting rods are still in perfect condition.

Both engines were/are chipped.
This further directs suspicion towards overheated lubricants on the splines, due to heat creep from the AVs.
Or is this thought too far-fetched?

Good possibility that it is a temp. The problem is that 505.o1 oils are still being developed and sold.
That also means that the 507 00 in 5W-30 may not always include the 505.01 completely.
.
505.01 is now also available as C3 oil in 5W-40, and sometimes even has MB229.51 approvals.

Therefore, all oils on the market are still available.
5W-40 in 505.01, used quality, with sulfur. Bsp Fuchs TITAN SUPERSYN PLUS 5W-40
5W-30 in 505.01 in C3 (Shell and Mobil)
5W-40 in 505.01 with C3 (Castrol and Fuchs)

5w-40 in C3 is not available from all oil manufacturers (e.g., Shell/Mobil).

Hi,
In the image "Hydros defekt" shown above, the hydraulic plungers are depicted with severely damaged piston surfaces. Something similar, but less advanced, happened to me in my first year of university.
The mileage was approximately 240,000 km, and of the 8 valves, 6 showed a gray cloud in the valve stem area upon the first inspection, which upon closer inspection revealed even smaller craters, which could be felt with a hard tool. I, of course, replaced the valves. Motor oil has always been VW 50500, long-standing Castrol GTX3
When I change the ZR next time, I'll take a closer look at the NW and the Stößel.
hg
Herbert

Last week, I cleaned the fuel pump, nozzle, and related components using ultrasonic cleaning at 170,000 km.
I also carefully examined the camshaft. Absolutely no wear and tear detected.
However, I did find traces on the pump nozzle elements, as if it was scraping against the cylinder head. The traces were exactly under the solenoid valve, where it is located on the cylinder head.

Hi,

Quote:

Last week, during my ASZ maintenance at 170,000 km, I ultrasonically cleaned the fuel pump, nozzle, and related components.

Have you noticed any changes in the engine's performance?

Hello wingmaster!

Quote:

Last week, during my ASZ repair at 170,000 km, I ultrasonically cleaned the fuel pump, nozzle, and related components.

Are there before/after photos of PD elements and camshaft?

Since my vehicle has a similar mileage (180,000 km), I'm particularly interested in the condition.
Currently, I don't have any reason to investigate further. The engine is running perfectly.

Why did you verschandeln the PD elements?

Thank you and best regards!

Quote:

However, I did notice some wear and tear on the valve stem elements, as if they were rubbing against the cylinder head. The traces were clearly visible under the solenoid where it is located on the cylinder head.

Unfortunately, this is normal with two-valve motors. If you have any doubts about whether the PDE will reseal at the worn edges, you can use 500-grit sandpaper to verschandeln the areas. But definitely verschandeln it thoroughly afterwards, so that no debris gets into the system.

I just realized how many spelling mistakes I made in my previous text... Sorry for that. Proofreading...

I cleaned the pump, nozzle, and element parts on my ASZ because I bought a 120W ultrasonic cleaner for the workshop. The cleaning solution for pump, nozzle, and element parts costs 22 EUR from VW. I wanted to try it on my car first before selling it to customers. This way, I could have a before-and-after comparison myself. My car was running perfectly before the cleaning. After removing the pump, nozzle, and element parts, I examined the nozzle tips. I could clearly see deposits around the 6 holes of the nozzle tips. Unfortunately, I didn't manage to take pictures. You can imagine it like a dormant volcano. The deposits were not removable with a fingernail. An hour later, at 70 degrees, the holes were all clearly visible again and free of any contamination. I took the opportunity to completely reseal all the PDEs and provided the ASZ with a new cable and new mounting screws for the pivot lever. I also reset the PDEs to their default settings. After about 10 seconds of tuning, the engine started with a bit of coughing. I'm sure the car now pulls better. Specifically, it pulls noticeably better above 3000 rpm. However, I was more hoping for improved fuel efficiency. But I can't measure this at the moment because it's so cold that my portable heater has to run constantly, whether I want it to or not.
The sealing sets for the PDE are unfortunately quite expensive, but I still think it was worth it. Now I know that the PDE won't burn a hole in the piston anymore, even if it has a poor spray pattern.