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Scheinwerferwaschdüsen deaktivieren - Passat 3C | Posts 16+

 
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matthiasTDI96
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Post20-01-2010, 16:32    Subject: Quote

or it snows more here icon_wink.gif.

No, all of that is possible, no question. But when you get that slushy snow, and it happens quite often when you're driving (every few years), it definitely affects the headlight performance in all cars, especially those with xenon headlights, because you're not driving fast enough in that weather for the dynamic features to make a difference. That was just a note for winter driving. In the summer, I always take those old things out icon_smile.gif.


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Post20-01-2010, 17:05    Subject: Quote

dieselmartin wrote:
It's even possible that the 3C isn't as easy to snow on because its front is shaped differently, and for example, the angle of the SW "plate" is flatter...

Perhaps another reason is: the headlight glass on the Golf IV is made of real glass, while on the Passat it is made of plastic. icon_question.gif
MfG. Michael

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matthiasTDI96
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Post20-01-2010, 18:43    Subject: Quote

...those were real cars icon_smile.gif *dreaming* real glass.


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guste100
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Post20-01-2010, 22:22    Subject: Quote

I didn't shorten the activation time for mine, but simply increased the delay time. Originally, it was 200ms, but now I've increased it to two seconds.

I left the activation time unchanged at 1300ms. The advantage is that the SRA (presumably a sensor or feature) does not activate during normal wiping (less than 2 seconds). However, by pulling for an extended period, I can still activate the SRA if necessary, ensuring a sufficiently long operational lifespan.

"In this way, I'm essentially bypassing the pre-set 'every fifth time' setting."

Note: As far as I'm aware, the delay time cannot be adjusted directly, but only modified through extensive coding.

My opinion:
Delay: original 0x04 * 50ms = 200ms.
Delay now: 0x28 * 50ms = 2 seconds.
Control signal unchanged: 0x1A * 50ms = 1300ms.

Regards,
Guste.


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dieselmartin
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Post20-01-2010, 23:33    Subject: Quote

OK.

If you disable the SRA (by setting bit 1 of byte 1), it will never turn on (obviously).


Guste:
If you delay for 2 seconds, it always counts down, but it (almost) never actually starts, because it counts down from the start of the countdown, so you pull the lever, but those 2 seconds are never reached.

If you really want to wash something now, you theoretically need to pull the lever 5 times, each time for 2 seconds, to reliably trigger an SRA cycle.

I'll give it a try anyway...

m;
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Post21-01-2010, 21:24    Subject: Quote

dieselmartin wrote:
If you delay by 2 seconds, she will ALWAYS count, but (almost) never actually starts.

Yes, it actually turns on quite rarely, but it does happen from time to time. The 2s aren't that long, so you encounter them quite often.


dieselmartin wrote:
If you REALLY want to wash now, you theoretically have to pull the trigger 5 times, each time for 2 seconds, to be sure to catch an SRA cycle.

replace
"theoretically, pull 5 sets of 2 reps."
against
"theoretically, up to 5 times 2 seconds."

Okay, that makes sense. I only need to pull 5x 2s if I've just missed the SRA cycle. On average, it's about 2.5x 2s. And since the amount of water on the disc is very small compared to the SRA, I can manage it quite well. Or, for example, the first time after the engine starts. The SRA is always enabled in that case.

dieselmartin wrote:
I'll still try that out though....

Sure, I'll do that and post my opinion for posterity.

Slightly off-topic: Has anyone ever thought about a windshield washer fluid heating system on a 3C ? Mercedes used to have a system where part of the coolant return was routed through the windshield washer fluid tank (a simple metal tube acting as a heat exchanger). This meant the windshield washer fluid was always wonderfully warm and would defrost, especially when you had too little concentrate in it. (The hoses would then defrost when the warm engine was turned off and the residual heat spread under the hood). The heated nozzles on the 3C only prevent the nozzles themselves from freezing, but they don't actually heat the water.

With my 3C, even at just -2°C, the frozen windshield washer fluid (pure water) wouldn't thaw enough after using the heater for 4 cycles of 30 minutes each, so I couldn't spray it again. I had hoped the heat under the hood would be sufficient to thaw it. However, it likely failed due to the inconveniently located water tank.

I therefore had to first find an underground garage for parking, which isn't so easy in the countryside. Let's not talk about the drive there without a windshield wiper function (I'll just say: a bottle of Selter water out the driver's window on the highway... icon_redface.gif Yes, yes, feel free to laugh: Of course, I was wet afterwards, and the light sweater was also "individualized" by the dirty B-pillar. But it's better than nothing to be driving somewhere, even if it's just aimlessly.

Best regards,
Guste.


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Post21-01-2010, 22:11    Subject: Quote

In most modern vehicles, there is no opportunity to use the engine heat to defrost. The reason is simple: the windshield washer fluid reservoirs are almost universally located between the fender and the wheel well, or somewhere in the front area near the wheel well. Certainly, they are always located where they can be nicely cooled by the airflow and definitely not exposed to radiant heat or stagnant warm air.

I've found a solution for the chronically freezing windshield washer nozzles on my 206, since there weren't any suitable heated nozzles available, and I also wanted to avoid the hassle of running wires and installing an additional switch. I'm finding it increasingly difficult to find usable original-equipment switches that my Peugeot, with its mid-range trim, doesn't already have, and that can be repurposed to look original. The limousine recently received a hidden button that allows for the manual activation (and deactivation) of the coolant heater's working relay.

I built a device using a 1.5-meter-long aquarium hose with an 8 mm outer diameter, which I wrapped around a readily accessible coolant hose. I believe it was the one coming from the interior heater. I used a pluggable check valve towards the water tank and only a connector towards the nozzles. So, there's always some washing water inside the hose, which gets quite hot after some driving. In any case, the cleaning effect of the hot water is significantly improved! A pleasant side effect: some hot steam always rises in the hose, preventing the nozzles from freezing or thawing quickly after a short drive. Sometimes, when the vehicle is stationary, small clouds of steam can emerge from the vents.

The material costs are minimal and in the range of a few euros. Depending on the accessibility of the engine compartment, the installation might even take less than a few minutes.
Automobile Zeitzeugen: |SUZUKI Swift Sport (2008)| |Smart 450 (2002)| |Kymco Heroism 125 (1997)|


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Post22-01-2010, 8:30    Subject: Quote

In most current vehicles, there is no way to use the engine heat to defrost. The reason is simple: the windshield washer fluid reservoirs were almost universally located between the fender and the wheel well, or somewhere in the front area near the wheel well.
...

Then, finally buy the five-liter car that the Green Party is demanding, and the windshield washer reservoir is located in front of the partition wall separating the passenger compartment.
Here he lies
The exhaust heat is more likely to end up there than water spray or cold air. The five-liter car is so packed that there's no room for anything else (not even the mechanic icon_twisted.gif). icon_lol.gif


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Post22-01-2010, 10:29    Subject: Quote

Quote:
......requested five-liter car and the........


Yes, awesome! I've been wanting to get that 5-liter V10 TDI for a long time. If the Greens are demanding it, then the older person at home (as a Green voter) shouldn't get upset if I buy it icon_lol.gif icon_lol.gif icon_lol.gif.


@HutfahrerViewing profile: Hutfahrer: I wouldn't have gone quite so rustic in your place. I would have used the fuel cooler from the Sharan 7M (model ASZ) and connected it to the circuit for the expansion tank.

The steam that comes out will originate from the alcohol in the cleaning fluid.
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dieselmartin
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Post22-01-2010, 11:56    Subject: Quote

I've also been thinking about getting a water heater for a long time.

I'm worried about the installation costs and the price of spare parts; I don't want to end up ruining the water tank. Eventually, the washing water becomes as warm as the cooling water - you just need to ensure a small amount of waste heat or a hot summer icon_sad.gif.


Opel advertises the Insignia with "HotSpot," meaning that the water is hot.
Maybe take a look at that for me sometime.

m;
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... there was another T.

I don't know what the f*ck it was.


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Post22-01-2010, 12:00    Subject: Quote

......requested five-liter car and the........

Yes! Awesome! The 5-liter V10 TDI.
.....

I wasn't talking about that awful, noisy, vibrating diesel generator!

E500 .... that was what was being talked about icon_wink.gif


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Post22-01-2010, 12:01    Subject: Quote

@MartinViewing profile: Martin: The water temperature sensor (WT) should ideally be positioned directly in the pipework immediately before the nozzles, to ensure that it measures the water temperature as quickly as possible.

This will also offer advantages in the summer when it comes to removing the greasy, fatty residue from the insect graveyard icon_wink.gif.
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dieselmartin
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Post22-01-2010, 12:08    Subject: Quote

@VWSchrauber

So, it's the yellow Conrad snake after all.
or directly the A8 heat exchanger icon_wink.gif.

I would have gotten the A8WT... I just need to free it from its packaging and then check its "heated volume."


It's annoying that the 3C supplies water from the RIGHT side, meaning the driver's nozzle will only ever receive cold water.



@goettmann
So, not the one here: icon_wink.gif
*run fast* http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kia_Opirus
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I don't know what the f*ck it was.


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Post22-01-2010, 13:45    Subject: Quote

Quote:
so it's actually the yellow Conrad snake.


I had something like that a looooong time ago, but it's more of a DIY project for Homer Simpson types who are too afraid to actually do it.
The device only gets warm when the thermostat valve opens the main circuit, and it's also made of plastic (like the radiator hose, which is made of rubber), which is a poor conductor of heat. Furthermore, the contact area between the device and the radiator hose is theoretically infinitely small because the device is round. It's not much bigger, either, in terms of practicality.

The quality of the yellow plastic is quite good, but the connecting pieces at the ends tend to break quickly because the plasticizers don't last very long.

Quote:
or directly the A8 heat exchanger.

I would have gotten the A8WT... I just need to free it from its packaging and then check its "heated volume."


Do you mean the fuel cooler from an A8? But it has 2 incompatible connections (too thick).
The one from Sharan7M has 4 pieces of 8mm connectors, but it costs almost 100€ (from VW).



Quote:
It's annoying that the 3C supplies water from the RIGHT, so the driver's nozzle will always only get cold water.



He also has the torque wrench balancer icon_smile.gif on the right side.
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Post22-01-2010, 14:20    Subject: Quote

Yes, the diesel water cooler.

Do you have a phone number for 7M?
7M3 203 572 B?
Photos?

Thank you.
m;

aaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
[Egay]
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... there was another T.

I don't know what the f*ck it was.


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Post22-01-2010, 15:26    Subject: Quote

Quote:
Do you have a number for 7M?
7M3 203 572 B?


Just checked, the number is correct. Uncle Edgar calls that thing a "heatsink."

Quote:
aaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
[Egay]


äääähhhm.....this is the forum's homepage icon_confused.gif.

Quote:
Photos?


Unfortunately, no, I've only seen it once.
selber schrauben - statt Werkstattpfusch


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