Scheinwerferwaschdüsen deaktivieren - Passat 3C | Posts 16+

or it snows more here ;-)

No, that's all possible, of course. But if the snow falls so heavily and the visibility is so poor (which happens occasionally when driving, especially in winter), then the street lighting will certainly be sufficient for all cars, especially those with xenon headlights, since you won't be able to achieve speeds that would make a difference in such conditions. That was just a note for winter driving. In the summer, I also always turned them off

dieselmartin wrote:

It is even possible that the 3C is not so easy to cut because its front is shaped differently and, for example, the angle of the "SW" disc is flatter...

Perhaps another reason: The headlight glass is made of real glass in the Golf IV, but of plastic in the Passat.

...that was when cars were around *dreaming* real glass

I didn't shorten the activationtime, but instead simply increased the delaytime. The original value was 200ms, but I have now set it to two seconds.

I have left the activationtime unchanged at 1300ms. Advantage: When swiping normally (under 2s), the SRA doesn't activate. However, by dragging for a long time, I can activate the SRA with a sufficiently long usage duration when needed.

Therefore, I am essentially bypassing the fixed "every fifth time" setting.

Note: The delay time can only be changed by long coding, not by adjustment, if I'm not mistaken.

My setting:
Original delay: 0x04*50ms = 200ms
Current delay: 0x28*50ms = 2s
Control unchanged: 0x1A*50ms = 1300ms

Best regards,
Guste

SO

The SRA disconnecting (Byte 1 Bit 1) process, but it never turns back on (clear)

Guste:
If you delay for 2 seconds, it always counts, but it almost never turns on, because it's counting the start of the countdown, so pulling the lever, but the 2 seconds are never reached.

If you really want to wash, you theoretically need to pull the lever 5 times, each with a 2-second delay, to ensure a complete SRA cycle.

I'll try that anyway...
m;

dieselmartin wrote:

If you delay by 2 seconds, it ALWAYS counts, but it rarely goes off,

Yes, it actually doesn't go off very often, but it does happen occasionally. The 2 seconds aren't really that long, so you can still catch them.

dieselmartin wrote:

However, if you REALLY want to wash, you theoretically need to pull 5x 2s to ensure a successful SRA cycle.

replace
"theoretically 5x 2s pull"
with
"theoretically pull up to 5x 2s"

That's right. Because I only need to pull 5x 2s if the SRA cycle has just been missed. So, on average, I'm pulling 2.5x 2s. And since the amount of water on the disc compared to the SRA is negligible, I can manage that quite well. Or, perhaps, the first time after the engine starts. That's when the SRA is always active.

dieselmartin wrote:

I'll try that anyway....

Yep, do that and post your opinion for posterity.

Slightly off-topic: Has anyone ever considered a [b]wash-rinse-repeat water heating system after the 3C? Mercedes used to do this, where the coolant return was partially routed through the WiWa tank (a simple metal pipe as a heat exchanger). This meant the wash water was always wonderfully warm and would thaw if you occasionally had too little concentrate. (The hoses would thaw when the warm engine was turned off and the residual heat spread under the hood). The pre-heated nozzles on the 3C only prevent the water from freezing, but they don't actually heat the water up.

With my 3C, even at -2°C, the frozen windshield washer fluid (pure water) didn't thaw completely after 4 x 30-minute use of the heater. I had hoped that the heat under the hood would be enough to thaw it. However, this probably failed due to the poorly positioned windshield washer fluid tank.

Therefore, I had to find a parking garage first, which wasn't easy on the rural countryside. Let's not talk about the drive itself without a car wash – I'll just say: a bottle of window cleaner from the driver's side window on the highway... Yes, yes, laugh if you want. Of course, I was wet afterwards, and my bright sweater was also "individualized" by the dirty A-pillar. But it was better than driving around blind somewhere.

Best regards,
Guste

In most modern vehicles, there is no way to utilize the engine's heat to thaw the windshield. The reason is simple: the windshield washer fluid reservoirs have almost completely migrated to the front area, between the fenders and wheel arches, or somewhere in front of the wheel arches. They are always located in a place where they can be cooled by the wind and are never exposed to direct or standstill heat.

To combat the chronically freezing windshield wipers on my 206, I have found a solution, as there were no suitable heated wipers available. I also wanted to save on the cost of both the wiring and the installation of a switch. I was increasingly unable to find suitable original series switches that my Peugeot, with its mid-range equipment, had, and that could be used in a way that looked original. The sunroof button was recently used to activate the (self-holding) relay of the coolant circulation pump.

I had built a snake out of a 1.5 meter long aquarium hose with an outer diameter of 8 mm, which I wrapped around a graspable cooling water hose. I think it was the one that comes from the internal heating system. I used a plug-in check valve for the water tank, and just a connector for the nozzles. So, there is now always some washing water in the hose, which becomes quite hot after a while. At any rate, the washing effect of the hot mixture also improves significantly! A pleasant side effect: some hot steam always rises up in the hose, and the nozzles no longer freeze or thaw after a short ride. In a stationary vehicle, small steam bubbles sometimes also form in the nozzles.

The material costs are minimal and in the range of a few EUR. Depending on the accessibility of the engine compartment, the installation may also take only a few minutes.

In most current vehicles, there is no way to utilize the engine's heat to thaw the windshield. The reason is simple: the windshield washer fluid reservoirs have almost completely migrated between the fenders and the wheel arches, or somewhere in front of the wheel arches, into the front area.
...

Finally, buy the five-liter car that the Greens are demanding, and the washer fluid reservoir is located in front of the passenger compartment wall.
Here it is
The exhaust heat is more likely to accumulate there than spray water or cold air. The five-liter car is so full that nothing can fit in it (not even the mechanic )

Quote:

......desired 5-liter car and the........

Yeah... awesome - I've been wanting to get a 5-liter V10 TDI for a long time. If the Greens are demanding it, then my old lady (as a Green voter) can't complain either when I buy it :lol:

@Hutfahrer: I wouldn't have done it quite like that myself. I would have used the fuel cooler from the ASZ, the 7M, and attached it to the line going to the reservoir.

The steam that comes out will come from the alcohol in the cleaning fluid...

I've also been thinking about installing a water heating system for a while.

However, I'm worried about the installation costs and the price of replacement parts. I don't want to end up spending a lot of money on a water tank. Eventually, the water in the tank will be as hot as the coolant - all I need is a small amount of heat or a hot summer :(

Opel advertises the Insignia with "HotSpot" ... so that the water is hot.
Maybe I should take a look at that...
m;

...five-liter car and the...

Yeah... awesome - the 5-liter V10 TDI
.....

But I haven't mentioned the ridiculously powerful diesel engine!

E500...that's what we were talking about

@Martin: The WT should, of course, be located directly in the line immediately before the nozzles, in order to have the warmest water available as quickly as possible there.

This will also be beneficial in the summer when it comes to removing greasy residues from the insect graveyard: wink:

@VWSchrauber

So, actually the yellow Conrad snake
or the A8 heat exchanger ;)

I have the A8WT... I just need to free it from Pöl and flush it, to see how much "heated volume" it has.


Annoying is that the 3C supplies water from the RIGHT, so the driver's nozzle will always only get cold water



@goettmann
Not this one: http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kia_Opirus
*run away*

Quote:

so, tatsächlich die gelbe Conrad-schlange

I had this thing a long, long time ago, but it's really more for Homer Simpson, the DIY enthusiast who's not afraid.

This thing doesn't get hot until the thermostat valve opens the large circle, and it's also made of plastic (like the (rubber) radiator hose), which is a poor heat conductor. And the contact area between the hose and the radiator hose (since the hose is round) is theoretically infinitely small. Practically, it's not much bigger either.

The quality of the yellow plastic is quite good, but the connection pieces at the ends break relatively quickly, as the plasticizers don't last long.

Quote:

or, for example, the A8 heat exchanger I would need to... just need to verschandeln the A8WT from Pöl and check how much "heated volume" it has.

Do you mean the fuel cooler from the A8? but it has 2 unsuitable connections (too thick).
The one from the Sharan7M has 4 8mm connections, but it costs around 100€ (at VW).

Quote:

Annoying is that the 3C supplies the water from the RIGHT, so the driver's nozzle will always only get cold water.

He also has the KW (presumably coolant) reservoir on the right side.

Yes, the diesel-water cooler.

Do you have a number for the 7M?
7M3 203 572 B?
Photos?

Thank you,
m;

aaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
[Egay]

Quote:

Do you have a number for the 7M? 7M3 203 572 B?

Just checked, the number is correct. Uncle Edgar calls this thing a "heatsink";

Quote:

aaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh [Egay]

äääähhhm.....this is the homepage of the forum:?

Quote:

Photos?

Unfortunately, I only saw it once.....