Octavia 1 - Querlenkerbuchsen / Federbeintausch > Problem | Posts 16+

Hi,

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Damn, this thing has become really noisy now.

Have you experienced the same?

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No, not really. Maybe something else is broken.

Interestingly, the old bearing was also initially used with the TT model with the 1J0... part number, which is the type that makes noise, before it was switched to the full rubber part.

The first TT series likely had issues with its handling, and I remember a recall campaign where the dealership installed a different rear spoiler, among other things. It's possible that the full-width tires were also part of the solution.

Okay, "polterig" is a bit crude, let's put it this way: every manhole cover is now noticeably more present, and you can also feel vibrations when you accelerate. The ATD (automatic transmission) is already a noisy piece of equipment.

Other suspension components are definitely fine, only the strut mounts are creaking. And the shock absorbers have already seen 217,000 km.

Since the rear ones are new, I also ordered the front ones from the original manufacturer to ensure that the entire suspension system matches. I will replace the sway bar links/axle bearings on Tuesday before the alignment.

There must be a reason why the solid rubber bushings were only used in conjunction with the reinforced control arms.

Hi,

Quote:

There must be a reason why the solid rubber bushings were only installed in conjunction with the reinforced control arms.

It is primarily used in sports models to improve road handling and driving dynamics. With minimal compromises in comfort.

Well, it's too late now . Tomorrow I'll install the new shock absorbers and the strut mounts, and then the front axle will be relatively new again.


"But a few expert tips would be great: Any advice on the easiest way to remove the shocks? I ordered this expanding socket from Hazet for the wheel bearing housing, which is the same one used by the VW factory... because I'm not going to hammer a chisel into the wheel bearing housing if this socket only costs 5 euros."

My plan was as follows:

Leave the top part as is, open the bottom, expand it, and try to pull the damper out from the bottom... Since that's likely to fail with a 4x4 vehicle equipped with an off-road suspension, I would suggest compressing the springs with a spring compressor in the wheel well... Or do you have any better suggestions?

The problem is that the repair measure must be a) carried out alone and b) be possible on the driveway .


According to VW, and as I was told by the mechanic, the driveshaft needs to be removed, as well as the lower ball joint from the control arm, in order to remove the shock absorber. However, I'm not keen on doing that because a) I don't have the right size wrench, and b) I don't have a stable way to support the car on the jack.


My plan is leaning towards pre-compressing the spring in the wheel well... how have you guys solved this so far?

Okay, here's the documentation with instructions for the Golf IV 4motion and Octavia 1 4x4:


WORK:

Please provide the text you would like me to translate from German to English. Replace left/right shock absorber.
Please provide the text you would like me to translate from German to English. Replace left/right strut mount.
Please provide the text you would like me to translate from German to English. Replace left/right axle bearings.
Please provide the text you would like me to translate from German to English. Replace the front lower control arm bushings on the left/right side.



MATERIAL LIST:

2 x Control arm bushing 8N0407181B
2x screw for rear control arms, part number N10262202.
2x Mother for screw / rear control arm N10150814
2 x Screw for front control arms, part number N90484004.

2x shock absorbers, depending on the vehicle model.
2x self-locking mounting brackets for shock absorbers (top). Part number: N90353604.

2x strut mounts / wheel bearing housings, depending on the vehicle model.

2x M12x1.5x78 screw for wheel bearing housing pressing. Part number: N10207803.
2x Self-locking nuts M12x1.5 for wheel bearing housing screw, part number N10106402.


As well as, if defective upon inspection:

2 x ball joint, depending on the model.
2 x tie rod ends, depending on the model.



RIGHT LEG:

Just loosen the tie rod.
Then press down firmly.
Please provide the text you would like me to translate from German to English. The shock absorber comes out with a bit of force, but without any additional problems.
Please provide the text you would like me to translate from German to English. The new shock absorber fits without any problems, although it requires some force to install.



LEFT SPRING STRUT:

. comes out with greater difficulty after the tie rod is loosened.
Please provide the text you would like me to translate from German to English. The new shock absorber doesn't fit, at least not in my case.
3 x ball joint screws loosened.
Please provide the text you would like me to translate from German to English. The wheel bearing housing was partially pulled out of the control arm, but not completely.
Please provide the text you would like me to translate from German to English. The wheel bearing housing must be tilted significantly backward (this is only possible by temporarily moving the rectangular locking nut for the wheel bearing housing upwards!).
Please provide the text you would like me to translate from German to English. Then, thread the new shock absorber and reassemble everything.


In my experience, alignment is always necessary; the new, and therefore slightly longer, shock absorbers (especially when replacing the strut mounts) change the camber, and consequently, the toe angle.



Anyway, I have an SUV again... it's almost 2cm higher in the front now :lo

hmm...

Since the book exchange, I've been experiencing vibrations in the drivetrain, but only when accelerating... and only at low RPMs, between 1100-1400 RPM... it's annoying, especially in city driving and in 6th gear. That's not how things work.

"However, I'm unclear about a connection, as this issue started immediately after replacing the tie rod ends. I initially ignored it, but now it's bothering me... I'm worried that a driveshaft joint might be failing."

Because the rest of it is new, all the bearings, shock absorbers, and the axle has been measured.

new vibration theory...

"The drive shafts were exposed for removing the control arms... but surely you can't install them incorrectly, right? I'm aware that the outer joint on the right side has some play in the front axle... but a) it was already like that, and b) it wasn't vibrating before."

The disturbing vibrations started right after the renovation... does anyone have any practical ideas?

I loosened the cuff, squeezed some grease inside, and resealed everything properly. Now the vibration is better. Let's see how long the joint will last...

Do you have any other ideas or suggestions?

Hello,

"I also experienced vibrations when accelerating in my AXR after switching to R32/TT solid engine mounts. For me, it was worst in the range between 1400 and 1800 RPM, similar to what you're experiencing in the higher gears (where there's enough time for the engine to 'settle' during acceleration). Unfortunately, I could only fix it by switching back to the standard engine mounts, after which everything was fine again." I also initially suspected the drive shafts, but that turned out not to be the case.

I can explain the technical background as follows:
1. The TDI engine naturally has more vibrations than the V6 gasoline engine, which comes with the bushings installed from the factory.
2. The reinforced bushings are standardly equipped with cast crossbeams, and it is well known that cast material has a different (better) vibration behavior compared to a sheet metal component.

"Sure, there are many people who are happy with the reinforced sockets, but I have also read about this problem multiple times (since I switched)." It seems to affect only a very narrow frequency range, which is only triggered in certain engines (I have no idea why it doesn't happen in the others).

Best regards, Stefan.

Hello and thank you for your statement.

I'm currently considering adding damping weights to the control arms, just for testing purposes. However, I don't have any concrete ideas about what material to use or how much to use... While aluminum-butyl would be easy to bond, it wouldn't add much weight. The only idea would be to obtain a CNC-cut stainless steel plate with a thickness of 5mm, shaped to fit the inner form of the control arm, and to temporarily fix it in place using screws and nuts through the existing holes in the control arm.

If that would actually solve the problem, I would still have the option of buying and installing the R32 control arms, since I also have all-wheel drive.

The fact is that the rattling noise from the newly greased inner joint side is getting louder again, and tomorrow I'll start by replacing the A-arm joint. The joint was exposed to the "open air" for too long due to the torn cuff, oh well...

The vibration itself wouldn't bother me too much, as long as it doesn't cause any consequential damage... and the R32 rubber bushings would last forever...


If you have any tips on how much weight one should temporarily add to each control arm for testing purposes, feel free to share them.


My primary problem is the noisy inner joint, which was quiet after the lubrication, but is now noisy again. Therefore, I'm going to renew that first.

Because after the weight reduction, the vibrations were only minimal! I will keep you updated.

Octavia_4x4 wrote:

The vibration itself wouldn't bother me much, if it didn't cause any consequential damage...

It really depends on how bad the vibration is. In my case, within 2 weeks, the screws on the handle above the door came loose... I don't even want to think about what would have shaken loose after 1-2 years. However, you can also adjust your driving style (by avoiding the corresponding RPM range in higher gears), but then the fuel consumption will increase...

Actually, it's working out well. I've made some slight adjustments to the driving style, and interestingly, the fuel consumption has decreased (6.2 to 5.7).

It's not very strong, as long as you don't overdo it. I'll try it out with various deadlift variations.

"The joint was replaced - however, the suspected right inner joint was fine, but the left inner joint had air in it. The problems have been resolved, except for a minimal vibration, and I can finally drive at 60 in 6th gear again." Shift gears.

By the way, a tip: On the left side at least, the A-arm can be removed without disconnecting the ball joint, as long as you remove the stabilizer bar!

Hopefully, I can get rid of that slight vibration by making the control arms a bit "stiffer."

Okay.

Okay, here's the translation:

"Now I've done some research to find out the weight difference between..." The weight of the stamped and cast steering knuckles is approximately 1.4 kg per side.

Therefore, I initially stuck 500 grams of insulation panels per side onto the handlebars as a test – this almost completely neutralized the vibrations.

Since that's proven successful, I'm going to fit stainless steel anti-vibration weights on both sides of the control arms. I'll cut some matching 10mm stainless steel plates and attach them to the top and bottom of the handlebar. Luckily, it already has two pre-drilled holes, which I use to connect the plates to the threaded inserts embedded in the plates with an M8 screw.

I will dimension the plates so that I have full freedom of movement overall, while still adding an extra 1.4 kg of weight per side.


Because it's almost free this way, I certainly won't be buying those expensive cast iron handlebars.

Hi, Ulf is still taking out the radio and the last insulation mat, and you're complaining about the control arms???
There have definitely been better contributions. It's not meant to be rude, but these kinds of DIY projects are really pointless.