Wie oft glüht Ihr bei Kälte (?? - 5°C) vor? - PD, CR und VEP | Posts 16+

Quote:

klahaui wrote: but why aren't many of you glowing?

Because I don't have to take that into consideration! My engine is already glowing as it should. The only thing that could influence the preheating time before (!) starting is by starting it too quickly. Only in really cold temperatures does the glowing glow plug and the brightly lit "STOP" sign in my car's instrument cluster indicate the need for more patience. According to the owner's manual, you can start immediately after the "STOP" light goes out. This light turns on with the glow plug and turns off approximately at the same time. In summer temperatures, I don't see either of them at all, except for a brief functional check.

For me, it's very simple: just plain laziness!

My old car, the one with over 350,000 km on the odometer, is a bit grumpy. I have to pre-glow the engine twice if the temperature is below 5°C. Otherwise, the entire engine will run too roughly, and it will also take longer to start.

I have now adjusted the preheating time in the control unit. At 5°C, it's approximately 5 seconds of preheating, and this morning at 0°C, it was 9 seconds with this setting.

Many people will say that's far too long, but look, the engine starts without a single hesitation, just like I'm used to at 20°C. It's simply not possible without a pre-glow cycle, or with the 2.2 seconds specified by VW.

The BKD runs smoothly, but I always wait . Is it possible to adjust the preheating time for the ceramic glow plugs via the adaptation channel?

"The 'new' boxes have an external glow plug controller (461), but even that receives information from the Msg. about how long it needs to glow, right?"

Deus Violentia wrote:

My old car, the veteran with over 350,000 km, is a bit grumpy. I have to pre-glow it twice when the temperature is below 5°C. Otherwise, the entire engine runs too roughly, and it also takes longer to start.

Interesting case, here are 2 questions:

1. Is the compression still within the expected range?

2. Can you detect any abnormal contact resistances in the glow plug circuit, including all components? Should relays, cables, and connectors be ruled out?
Because even minimal transition resistances there significantly reduce the heating power, and the time required to reach the desired temperature of the glow plugs increases so much that it may easily require two normal heating cycles.

1. Compression is within the expected range.

2. I changed the glow plug , the relay is working correctly, and the interior light is getting dimmer, so it's drawing power . However, the old Beru glow plugs were also still in good condition; the first approximately 8mm glow brightly after 2 seconds. On Monday, the mechanic offered a "discount" of €30.00 on BOSCH S4 74Ah batteries manufactured in May 2010. The Golf also received a new battery, as well as a new diesel filter, in preparation for winter.

The battery terminal clamps are in good condition. I haven't checked for hairline cracks yet.

If I disconnect the power rail and insert a grounding cable (GK) there, hold it against the ground, and turn on the ignition, the grounding cable shows a slightly delayed connection compared to connecting it directly to the battery. This suggests that there is likely a resistance somewhere in the circuit. This is a possible cause.

But I'm not going to disassemble the entire glow plug system. I'll try putting in a different glow relay that I have on hand and check the accessible wiring.

But seriously, the candles don't explode when they get 8 seconds of power, and when I start them and let them burn, there's nothing wrong with the wire gauges.

I performed the glow plug adjustment last night, and this morning the starting behavior was excellent. Today, I'm also installing new coolant hoses; my gut feeling is that this will solve the problem.

God.

Doesn't the BKD engine already use 4-volt spark plugs?
Or did they only come with the BMR?

I will not modify my (1) to run on 16V, and I will not connect it to 12V.

And the BLS (Swiss Federal Railways) really needs to get that new power line installed... but time is of the essence.


BMR and BLS lights ignite easily without requiring preheating. However, the BMR generally starts up less reliably -> see my original post about it.

m;

Hi,

I already have the 4.4V GK spark plugs from Beru installed in my BKD engine --> part number N 105 798 02.

I'm just starting to realize... didn't something change about the way those old 11V spark plugs worked?

What worries me: The glow plugs in my 1.4 HDI engine are now more than 4 years old. The entire vehicle has covered 120,000 kilometers. According to the diagnosis, all the spark plugs are still present.

My previous Suzuki Ignis DDIS, which had the Fiat engine known as either a 1.3 JTD or 1.3 CDTI, needed its first set of new glow plugs at just under 50,000 km. Only one of the factory-installed glow plugs was still working. At around 90,000 km, two more glow plugs were replaced. However, the glow plug system would continue to provide reduced heating power until the operating temperature was reached, and then reactivate when the temperature dropped for any reason. The constant adjustments and tinkering naturally put more strain on the materials, especially since the target temperature was practically never reached during the winter.

then you should worry more: 200,000 km, 8.35 years, and with a professional bulb test, they are all still working properly... although they are without power for 8 months of the year .

The ones that were in the Deutz D40.2 are now, after 25 years, also broken.

Then I still have a little time...

So, they could potentially last even longer. I'm a bit traumatized by my experience with the Fiat diesel, and I've already been thinking about proactively replacing the spark plugs in the Peugeot. Especially since they are not necessarily million-dollar items...

The corresponding option is also missing for my CR.

Glow plugs for diesel engines, instant start for gasoline engines down to -24°C...

- Heat up to 1000°C in a maximum of 2 seconds (11.5V).
- Afterglow up to 25° coolant temperature, maximum 5 minutes (7V via PWM).
- Intermittent heating to support DPF regeneration.

To reduce the load on the power supply, the igniters are phase-shifted so that only one is active at a time.

Does the reduced flowability of diesel fuel have absolutely no effect in extreme cold?
Even "winter diesel" has a viscosity that causes problems at temperatures below -25°C.

Winter diesel is treated with additives to suit the weather conditions. However, this additive process costs the mineral oil dealer extra money, and the customer is only willing to pay a small portion of that cost. Therefore, the diesel is mixed just enough to avoid causing problems for the manufacturer, the mineral oil dealer, or the gas station operator. The additive amount is always adjusted daily to ensure that the diesel is suitable for the weather forecast for the next few days. Anyone who wants to drive to Scandinavia today with the diesel currently being sold and arrive there without refueling has... "An issue occurred during the next restart."

Hutfahrer wrote:

...costs the mineral oil dealer additional money, and the customer is only willing to pay a small portion of it. ....

It almost sounds like we should feel sorry for the corporations... ...ahhh, here, diesel has become 10 cents more expensive within 1.5 weeks. Now, we have -2 degrees Celsius at night. Actually, it's about 5 degrees colder now it's slowly becoming clear to me .