ZMS Wechsel ASZ mit ERF | Posts 16+

Okay. Install it dry, and there shouldn't be any additional sealant underneath.

Okay, everything is disassembled. The dual-mass flywheel (DMF) is as expected, completely shot. However, the clutch itself doesn't look much worse than a new one. Well, it's coming out anyway. Partly because the DMF that was installed was from Sachs, and the new one is from LuK.

I'm curious to see if we can manage this together tonight. The conditions at the quarry aren't ideal.

Wow, not bad, over 400,000 kilometers with a single-mass flywheel and clutch, that's impressive! I guess this car is driven long distances? My Toledo also has the ERF gearbox, with a single-mass flywheel and clutch. The flywheel has been faulty for some time now, sometimes it jerks, other times not, and the clutch is nearing its end! I often tow trailers or caravans with it, and I didn't think the clutch would last this long despite a lot of maneuvering with a slipping clutch! I plan to replace it around 400,000 kilometers. However, I won't be replacing the seals because everything down there is completely oil-free!

Okay, the seals are still in place and seem fine. They should last for another 100,000 km (approximately 62,000 miles). I drove about 95% of that distance myself, and it was often used to tow trailers, which were quite heavy. But overall, the car has mostly been driven on highways, which is definitely a plus. The clutch release bearing seems worn out. What's the best way to fill the new one? Compressing it and initially filling it with brake fluid should help, right?

I've only been able to bleed the air out of clutch systems so far by using pressure.
A vacuum pump might also be a possible solution.

Best regards,

Hi!

It's best to vent from the bottom up; it can sometimes be difficult.

Okay, everything's done now. Just the venting needs to be taken care of, but we'll do that tomorrow. I'm feeling a bit uninspired right now, and I'm hoping for some good ideas.

From bottom to top... is there any other place to bleed the transmission besides the one at the top?

Hi!

"For some car models, there might still be a valve on the sender cylinder, but I don't think that's the case here."

From my perspective, if it really doesn't work, try feeding the fluid from below into the bleed valve on the slave cylinder.

There used to be a DIY trick where you would connect a hose from the brake caliper bleed valve to the clutch slave cylinder, open both valves, and essentially pump the fluid in a closed loop using the brake pedal.

Regarding bleeding: I compressed the release bearing/slave cylinder and then, when releasing it, brake fluid was drawn into the bottle. Everything is installed, and I pumped the pedal a few times. Once, with the clutch pedal depressed, I opened the bleed nipple, and some air came out, followed by verschandeln brake fluid.

Test drive: Now I'm sad, the car drives like new, how could I possibly give it away , well, it's going to be in very good hands.

What really surprises me is the condition of the original clutch; it's missing 1.1 mm compared to a new one. Aside from the rivets, there's still plenty of material left. However, the dual-mass flywheel (ZMS) was completely worn out. The release bearing/slave cylinder was also finished. This probably explains why the clutch wasn't fully disengaging at the very end of the pedal travel.

The most ridiculous task is removing the "star" shape from the pit.

The ZMS (presumably referring to a component in a vehicle) was already showing signs of wear on my car, but it was still within acceptable limits. However, sometime last week, it must have become severely misaligned, such that at around 2,200 RPM, its resonant frequency was reached. Above 3,000 RPM, gear changes were no longer possible.

"I experienced the same thing with both clutches. There was no significant wear on the friction material, considering the mileage of several hundred thousand kilometers."
The other clutch disc looked very similar. In the Golf, Sachs was the original equipment manufacturer, while in the Sharan, it was Luk.

Interesting, so we can say that they didn't cut corners on the quality of the brake pads back then.

In front of our carport, there's a slight incline leading up to the driveway. Since we got the Sharan (in 2007), my wife has actually been slipping the clutch every time she drives up that slope.
Specifically regarding the clutch in the car, I had expected something different. But as you can see, everything is in perfect order concerning the wear of the friction lining.

Ich habe Vergessen die Kupplungsfeder alt und neu zu vergleichen. Zum Ende hin trennte die Kupplung nahe am Bodenblech, jetzt trennt Sie auf den ersten cm. Wie das damals war hab ich vergessen. Da die Kupplung aber noch gut war, kann es ja nur die Feder (eher unwahrscheinlich, da nicht rutschte, selbst beim Provozieren) oder Luft im Nehmerzylinder (wahrscheinlich) gewesen sein. Dieser ist auch definitiv aufgebraucht. We didn't bleed the system beforehand because the ZMS (presumably a control module) was identified as the primary cause of the problem.

Perhaps future generations can bleed the clutch system before the floor panel by disconnecting it. (I actually did this myself; I have a "BF vacuum pump," but not the ability to pressurize the container, so I pumped with the pedal, blocked it with a broom handle, bled it briefly, and after two attempts, it worked.)

Otherwise Thank you to everyone who helped. It makes it easier to start unscrewing with prior information.

Hello!

The shaft seal (part number 038 103 171 B) on my 2002 AXR engine is now due for replacement. Is there a manufacturer's recommendation for this part? I was considering Elring 012.370 and Corteco 20020383B, but should I opt for the (considerably more expensive) OEM part instead?

Thank you & best regards,
black balance

OEM parts are also purchased from external suppliers; Volkswagen certainly doesn't produce them in-house.

That is already clear to me . Usually, the manufacturer can be found more or less easily. In this case, I unfortunately haven't been able to find it, which is why I am asking for a recommendation here.