Fehlersuche bei Golf 6 TDI 66kW (5K1) | Posts 16+

Injector 2 looks the "ugliest" compared to the rest.

Injector 1 also has minimal deposits.

These are attached together by a clamp, and I suspect that it wasn't fastened with the correct torque, or perhaps even with the original screw.

I would definitely make sure to thoroughly verschandeln the injector seat, use a new screw, and then tighten it to the specified torque and angle.

Before that, I would verschandeln all the injectors.


Best regards, Lukas.

I'm going to have the injectors checked first, since they're already removed. I can't imagine that this leak (if it really is a leak) is the cause of the underlying problem of excessive soot buildup and constant regeneration after only 20km. Especially since the injectors are perfectly verschandeln around the copper ring, and this problem has only recently started. There would certainly also be coking if there is a more significant leak.

I will have that done on Monday. If it turns out that the injectors are still working properly, which I highly doubt, then I'll be just as clueless as I was before.

Quote:

I will have the injectors checked first, since they are already out. I can't imagine that this leak (if it really is a leak) would be the cause of the underlying problem of soot buildup and continuous regeneration after 20km. Especially since the injectors are perfectly verschandeln above the copper ring, and this problem has only recently started. There would certainly also be coking if there is a more significant leak.

What you can't even imagine

When injectors have leaks, they overheat, and the nozzle needle can start to seize.
Then you'll get exactly the kind of poor results you're seeing with the idle speed control.

And if the injector gets stuck in the open position, it will make a "puff puff puff" sound, and your engine will be ruined.

Your injectors look like they're from a car with over 200,000 km.

And the copper sealing ring on injector 2 looks like it was installed by a monkey. There's dirt and soot inside, which is impossible if it's installed correctly.

Injector 4 looks like it was never installed, and number 3 is as I would expect it to be.

Thank you for the insightful explanation. Should I have it reviewed? It doesn't cost a fortune, and it can be done in a day, since they're already out there.

The second one was replaced by a workshop approximately 10,000 km ago. To replace it, they also had to remove the first one. The workshop stated that it was very difficult to remove. Perhaps they didn't verschandeln the nozzle hole properly. Or are there other reasons why they might have made a mistake during the installation?

Yes, it appears very likely that the sealing surfaces, or the sealing surface of injector 2, were not properly cleaned.

Based on experience, workshops tend to prioritize speed over thoroughness, unlike what someone might do privately.

Thinking about how long and thoroughly I cleaned the injector bore... that would have definitely cost a lot at the dealership.

My assumption is that, as you mentioned, injector 1 needs to be "removed" in order to be able to remove the bracket. It's also sufficient if you don't completely remove the injector, but something has to come out with it.
It's possible that this part was never fully removed, and the injector bore, etc., were never cleaned, and then reinstalled along with injector 2 into a chamber that was not cleaned (at least not thoroughly), as I believe.

That would definitely be a mistake with the first injector. Does every time an injector is loosened, the sealing ring and gasket need to be replaced?

This time, I'm doing it myself – because I'm very particular about things like this. It doesn't matter how much the cleaning costs.

Checking the injectors probably makes sense, right?

Hi,
Do you have a reliable reference for the return flow rate test? Okay, so not general internet stuff, but specifically for the CAYC motor?
Compared to the 2.0 TDI, this seems quite high to me. I had approximately 30 ml in each cylinder after 5 minutes of idling, but that was with electromagnetic injectors. The target is approximately the same value, with a total value of less than 50, to be measured after the throttling process, within 2 minutes.
If the return pressure is not correct, you can save money on the cost of testing the injectors.
hg
Herbert.

No - I only found information online. The Elsa repair manual that I found online only describes the vacuum test. But I don't own a hand-operated pump.

"In addition to the "classic" method of measuring return flow volume, a vacuum test can also be performed to check the solenoid valves for contamination, which can lead to increased leakage."

"The manual vacuum pump - VAS 6213 - generates a vacuum of 500 mbar. In properly functioning injector units, the pressure remains constant for over 30 seconds." "In the event of faulty injector units, the pressure will drop back to 0 bar within 2 to 3 seconds."

There, I also found the exact Nm (Newton-meter) values for tightening bolts, etc., as well as the complete installation and removal guide. However, even there, there are no "reference values" for the "classic" return test.

As far as I can tell, there is no official return volume or quantity specified by the manufacturer for the CAYC.

The guideline specifies a test for the pressure relief valve.

A residual pressure of one bar is always required for control purposes.

Otherwise, there is also a vacuum test at the return line, which should be maintained at -500 mbar for 30 seconds.

If not - Injector is faulty.

Do you have any tips on how to remove stubborn residue that's stuck to the injector seat? I have a brush set, but even with that, I can't get it 100% clean. What "agents" or "substances" can be used without damaging the material?

Thank you very much.

hauminix wrote:

Do you have any tips on how to remove stubborn residue that is stuck to the injector seat? I have a brush set, but I can't get it 100% verschandeln with that either. What "agents" or "substances" can be used without damaging the material? Thank you very much

.
No. Because if something is stuck there, the injector was never properly installed. Metal on metal. There's no room for junk.

Please do not use sandpaper or similar abrasive materials under any circumstances! If corundum particles fall into the cylinder, everything inside will be ground up.
I would plug the nozzle opening with a conical wooden stick (to prevent anything from falling into the cylinder) and then try my luck using skewers/a cleaning cloth/brake cleaner.

Best regards, Rainer.

Thank you, Rainer.

I borrowed some caps to put in the openings so that nothing can fall into the combustion chamber. I also have brake cleaner. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't using any chemicals that might react with the metal. Today, I'm going to try to verschandeln all four headlights using a scouring pad and brake cleaner.

The injectors have now been inspected and overhauled.

The condition of the injectors was not good.

Cylinder 1: bad.
Cylinder 2: good (replaced 10,000 km ago).
Cylinder 3: very bad.
Cylinder 4: unusable.

Now, let's verschandeln the injector sleeves again to make sure they are perfectly spotless.

Why are some tests failing even though the actual values are within the specified range plus or minus the tolerance?
Can you show me the results for Injector 2?

He tested the second one for me "off the books" for free, but he didn't provide me with a test report. He only told me verbally that he passed all the tests and that he's okay.

I haven't seen a grade that I considered a failure, but it should have been within the passing range. Sometimes, you almost make it.

My mistake, I had viewed the image on my phone and was completely wrong .

Okay, but Injector 4 is very close to the tolerance limit with a deviation of 0.02. But that's why we have those values, isn't it? Out is out.

Did you have any more measurements taken after the repair?

Even experienced people can sometimes make mistakes, and for a new quantity deviation code, it should actually be implemented in a way that allows them to be correctly programmed into the control unit.


For a blank injector seat, a honed recess can also be used, even in very hard cases. But really, only very carefully and by hand.
It's really just about getting the seat back into a usable condition, in case there are significant defects.