1Z Fehlercode 00550 | Posts 16+

However, it's not possible to reliably determine whether the KW wheel has moved; only a visual inspection of the KW stub can provide reliable information.

Rüdi wrote:

But it's not possible to reliably determine whether the KW wheel has moved; only a visual inspection of the KW stub

is reliable.
That's true, but if it smokes white when starting, you can tell from the beginning of the spraying whether it's misfiring.

White smoke and sputtering at startup = engine failure.
White discoloration and late start of spraying indicate loose gears (and additionally, a broken motor).

No matter what, just don't use such a worn-out engine for a rebuild; it's a waste of time and money. With that mileage, the injectors are likely clogged, the glow plugs are probably bad, the compression is questionable, the condition of the spark plugs is more "worn out," and the fuel injection pump (injection timing adjustment) is also likely worn. I don't even want to think about the timing belt and water pump...

The water pump on an AFN engine has nothing to do with the timing belt.

And in the T3, almost every diesel engine will eventually be scrapped. The JX TD engines often don't even reach 100,000 km because people aren't talking about them, so they end up being replaced with electric alternatives.

And the TDI will definitely be phased out in the long run because the gear ratios are simply not suitable, and I doubt that extending the fifth gear will solve the problem.

"When I encounter such problems, I immediately check the timing belt and if everything seems correct there, I'll then inspect the crankshaft pulley."

"All four injectors were replaced, along with the fuel pump. The cylinder head is completely new, including the head itself. The timing belt was also replaced at the same time. I've already mentioned all of this. Only the engine block remains from the original parts."

According to my diagnostic tool, the injection start is 8.1 degrees before top dead center (TDC).

Is this okay now, or not?

Hi there,
No, that's not okay because the measurement method is meaningless.

The injection timing (ESP) is initially set statically using a timing light, and then dynamically with a TDI diagnostic tool, for example, like this:

Quote:

The start of injection can be checked with VCDS and the TDI Timing Checker. https://shop.dieselschrauber.org/en/vagcom_screenshots.html

.
However, all of that has already been explained, including where to find the information. It seems you're not interested in knowing.
If the compression values mentioned above are accurate, the engine is likely beyond repair. The question is only how those measurements were taken. Was an adapter used during the measurement?
hg
Herbert.

However, the foundation is the most important part, and if you rebuild everything on top without checking the underlying structure first, it accelerates the deterioration, as has happened here.

The only solution here is to remove the motor and replace it.

And don't buy it until the compression has been measured.

Okay, thanks. I haven't gotten the adapter for the pump yet. I measured the compression using an adapter connected to the glow plug. It's also possible that the valves have been affected by the high oil pressure. I'm going to do a leak test now to see where the pressure is escaping from.

Quote:

I measured the compression using a glow plug and an adapter.

When it was screwed in, the compression values are probably correct... They are below the wear limit.
hg
Herbert.

Herbert wrote:

Hi, No, that's not okay because the measurement method is meaningless. The injection timing (ESP) is initially set statically using a timing light, and then dynamically with a diagnostic tool like TDI diagnosis, for example: Quote: The start of injection can be checked with VCDS and the TDI Timing Checker. https://shop.dieselschrauber.org/en/vagcom_screenshots.html . However, all of that has already been explained, including where to find the information. It seems you're not interested in knowing. If the compression values mentioned above are correct, the engine is likely beyond repair. The question is only how those measurements were taken. Was an adapter installed during the measurement? hg Herbert

.

"For the static adjustment, it's sufficient if it's roughly correct. A dial gauge is only necessary if the position of the pump's drive shaft is unknown. If you need to remove it, a simple mark with a marker pen will suffice."

Adjustment then via diagnosis.

Best regards, Rainer.