1.6 TD läuft nicht richtig Einspritzpumpe einstellen | Posts 16+

Hi!

So, normally, a fine mist comes out, like from a deodorant spray bottle.
but keep it in a ring shape. Like a cone.

Normally, those engines aren't that sensitive if the spray isn't perfectly even.

But what I'm seeing in this video...
That's not okay.

Perhaps you could disassemble each nozzle individually and make sure not to mix up the parts.
and sometimes place it in an ultrasonic cleaning bath.

That's my idea right now.
Before you invest a lot of money in an engine,
that you are not sure is in good condition.

I might also take a look; I might still have some of those new nozzle inserts.
You could get that for a small donation.
I'll never need it again.
I'm going to go searching tomorrow.

Good morning.

I've now ordered 4 injector nozzles from Bosch. Let's see what difference they make. They weren't tragically expensive. 70€ for 4 pieces.

Apparently, there is no interest in a possible solution... it's a shame that not even a response is received.

I encountered this issue more than once during my time as a trainee.

I'm sorry, I must have missed it.

Theoretically, the throttle lever should be in the correct position. The lever has a notch, and so does the shaft. They should align. However, it's possible to adjust it. I don't think it changes the fact that it won't start and that it's smoking. Once it does start, it idles normally. Accordingly, I don't think that should be included.

Sure, here's the translation:

"Best regards, Leo"

As I said, similar symptoms... the notch isn't always a perfect fit from the factory.

"I would check that, as well as the adjustment of the residual amount screw."

Oh, I'm feeling really stressed.

I received the 4 nozzles (just the nozzles themselves) that I ordered yesterday. New, a bit more expensive, but Bosch.

Installed, primed, 2 okay, but with a slightly higher opening pressure (165 bar), and 2 leaking.

Okay, so it looks like we're starting again next week.

The problem certainly doesn't lie with the nozzles.

Okay, I have new input.

I've modified my 8 injectors to the best of my ability. Two of them are the new Bosch injectors, which, for some reason, now have an opening pressure of 170 bar.
The other two are the best old nozzles, with washers instead of the small shims used for adjustment. So, I have 3 nozzles operating at 170 bar and one operating at approximately 165 bar.
"Due to the higher opening pressure, the injection pump now inherently takes longer to build up enough pressure to open. Accordingly, I've adjusted the injection timing, initially increasing the injection start point from 0.93mm to 1.03mm before top dead center." I'm just hoping that 1.03 is a suitable value for 170 bar.

Despite everything, it still only starts with a single shot of starting spray. But if I briefly (for a few seconds) hold the accelerator and then release it, the engine will maintain an idle speed of around 800 RPM, but it has noticeable fluctuations.

Now it only emits black smoke, and not gray smoke anymore. Therefore, the nozzles were definitely the cause of the smoking.

Okay, so I tried adjusting the throttle lever again. I roughly figured out at what position it starts accepting gas and turned it to about that position. The next time I started it, it immediately revved up high (felt like it was hitting the limiter), and a huge cloud of black smoke came out from under the hood. It took a moment before I could finally find the cable for the fuel shut-off. I'm starting it with a cable connected from terminal 30 to terminal 50 because I'm alone. I was, accordingly, very shocked.

Well, my battery charger just broke, and the battery in my Caddy is now so drained from starting that it won't start anymore. But I don't really want to deal with it today. Maybe I'll just jump-start it with the battery from my T5 tomorrow. The 100 Ah batteries should last a bit longer.

Okay, I'm assuming I can now start fine-tuning the pump, specifically adjusting the flow rate and gas lever. I'll need to take a look at that sometime in the next few days when I have time. However, first, I need to reassemble my BMW, which I finally got around to painting last weekend after repairing the damage from the accident and preparing it. Things like this take a long time when you can only work on them for a few hours or minutes at a time. Unfortunately, it's the same situation with the Caddy.

And Rüdi, a specific question for you. How did you adjust the linkage on yours? Mine seems to be quite off, I think. I was actually planning to do it with the engine running. You take off the linkage, then rotate the shaft until you see a change in the engine's behavior, and then rotate it back a bit, and put the linkage back on. Or do you think it's enough if I just remove the two Torx screws and use that to rotate the lever on the other lever?

Thank you all, and best regards.
Leo.

Wow... the last time I worked on a diesel engine with a mechanical injection pump was in 2006. If it was completely wrong, I would adjust the entire lever bit by bit until it worked correctly.

Reading.

ESP: Seal the lid and adjustment shaft.

https://share.google/on8ldhzYjOWlCfnih

Good evening.

So, I just disassembled, cleaned, lubricated, and reassembled the starter motor on my Caddy because I thought it was turning over a bit sluggishly and drawing too much power. It's now spinning noticeably faster.

And behold, the car started after about 20 seconds of cranking, without the start pilot system. (However, it required the use of a cold start accelerator and approximately 40 seconds of pre-glow.)

Now it was emitting a light gray/black (more gray) smoke again.

I adjusted the fuel screw until the engine was running smoothly at idle, after about a minute. It was approximately one full rotation.

Actually, it's running really well now. It also restarts quickly if it has been running recently.

He started to bleed quite heavily about 4 minutes into the run, making it difficult to continue. Could this be related to my possibly very early start of development (1.03mm)?

Also, another question: Is it normal for the coolant to already be quite warm at the upper radiator hose after just 4 minutes of idling?

Best regards,
Leo.

Hi!

Well, that looks quite good already.

I would then recommend checking the valve timing again and setting the injection timing to the factory specification, ideally somewhere in the middle of the tolerance range.

You should also check the glow plugs; they often fail on these engines.
However, they are relatively easy to replace and are not expensive.
If you have a clamp meter that can measure direct current,
It starts at 64 amps and then stabilizes at 48 amps after 5 seconds.
Then there's a fuse for the glow plugs, which you might want to replace as a precaution.
The fuse is like a thin strip of metal, and they can simply break without any apparent reason.

That's probably just normal with the coolant.
I had to check if the thermostat and the fan were working.
It's a good idea to bleed the cooling system again; it doesn't always work on the first try.

Check the heating heat exchanger inside.
They sometimes leaked.
Okay, don't disassemble the car, but pay attention to whether the windshield fogs up excessively from the inside, or if the footwell becomes damp.

Have you positioned the throttle lever where it's supposed to be?

Everything else is secondary.

I'm not sure if the gas lever is in the correct position now. It was previously aligned with the marking, and I've now moved it about two teeth. It seems to respond to the gas earlier now. I would even say it's almost perfect.

The spark plugs are okay. I looked at them while the nozzles were removed.

I've now purchased two other nozzles, as well as the adjustment shims, so that I can get all four nozzles working properly and back to a pressure of 155 bar.

Today, I'm going to continue experimenting, and I'm also going to push the start of the boosting period back a bit, as it seems to have started causing problems (like "nailing") when it was initiated earlier.

Let's see what happens. I'm just not sure if I'll adjust the throttle lever again. Basically, this changes the entire configuration of the pump.

As long as the throttle isn't in the right position, you can do whatever you want, but you need to get the fundamentals right first.

I don't understand what the problem is; it only takes a few minutes.

Yes, removing the lever takes a few minutes. But the marking he put on it doesn't do anything. He can't even get it started with Startpilot.

The marking isn't yours... before disassembling.

So, you have to do it step by step until it works. You have enough instructions already.

Everything else is just secondary construction sites.