1.6 TD läuft nicht richtig Einspritzpumpe einstellen | Posts 16+

Hi!

So, normally it comes out as a fine mist, like from a deodorant spray bottle.
aber halt ringförmig. Like a cone.

Normally, those motors aren't that sensitive if the spray isn't perfect.

But what I'm seeing in this video...
That's not okay. / That's unacceptable. / That won't do.

Perhaps you could disassemble each nozzle individually and make sure not to mix up the parts.
and sometimes place it in an ultrasonic cleaning bath.

That's my idea right now.
Before you invest a lot of money in an engine...
from which you are not sure if it is okay.

I could also take a look; I might still have some of those new nozzle inserts.
You could get a small donation for that.
I'll never need it again.
I'm going to go searching tomorrow.

Good morning.

I've now ordered 4 injector nozzles from Bosch. Let's see what difference they make. They weren't tragically expensive; €70 for 4 pieces.

It seems there is no interest in a possible solution... it's a shame that not even a response to this issue can be found.

I encountered this issue more than once during my time as a trainee/trainee developer.

Sorry, I must have missed that.

Theoretically, the throttle lever should be in the correct position. The lever has a notch, and so does the shaft. They should align. However, it's possible to adjust it. I don't think that changes anything about the engine not starting or the smoking. Once it starts, it idles properly. Therefore, I don't think that part is related to the problem.

Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"Vg Leo" translates to "Best regards, Leo".

As I mentioned, similar symptoms can occur... and the notch may not always be correctly positioned from the factory.

I would check that, as well as the adjustment of the residual amount screw.

Oh no, I'm starting to feel anxious/stressed.

I received the 4 nozzles (just the nozzles themselves) that I ordered yesterday. They are new and a bit more expensive, but they are Bosch brand.

Installed, fired, 2 okay, but with a slightly higher opening pressure (165 bar), and 2 misfires.

So, it looks like we're starting again next week.

The problem definitely doesn't lie with the nozzles.

Okay, I have new information.

I've modified my system with the eight injectors I have, and this is the best configuration I could come up with. Two of them are the new Bosch injectors, which, for some reason, now have an opening pressure of 170 bar.
The other two are the best old nozzles, with washers instead of the small adjustment pieces. So I have 3 nozzles at 170 bar and one at approximately 165 bar.
"Because of the higher opening pressure, the injection pump now generally takes longer to build up enough pressure to open. Accordingly, I've adjusted my fuel injection timing from 0.93mm to 1.03mm before top dead center (BTDC), just by feel. I hope that 1.03mm is a reasonable setting for 170 bar of pressure."

It still only starts with a shot of starting spray. But if I hold the accelerator pedal down for a short time (a few seconds) and then release it, it will idle at around 800 RPM, but there are noticeable fluctuations.

Now it only produces black smoke, not gray anymore. Therefore, the nozzles were definitely responsible for the smoking issue.

Okay, so I tried adjusting the throttle lever again. I roughly figured out at what position it starts accepting gas and turned it to about that point. The next time I started it, it immediately revved up high (felt like it was hitting the limiter), and a huge cloud of black smoke came billowing out from under the hood. It took me a moment to finally find the cable for the fuel shut-off. I started it with a wire connected from terminal 30 to terminal 50 because I was alone. Naturally, I got quite startled.

Well, my battery charger just gave up the ghost, and now the Caddy's battery is so drained from all the starting attempts that it won't start anymore. But I don't really want to deal with it today. Maybe I'll try connecting my T5's battery for a short time tomorrow; its 100Ah capacity should last a bit longer.

I'm assuming I can now start fine-tuning the pump regarding flow rate and gas lever settings. I'll need to take a look at that sometime in the next few days when I have time. However, first, I need to reassemble my BMW, as I finally managed to paint it last weekend after repairing the damage from the accident and preparing it. These things always take much longer than expected when you can only work on them for a few hours or minutes at a time. Unfortunately, it's the same situation with the Caddy.

Okay, Rüdi, a question specifically for you. How did you adjust the linkage on yours? Mine seems to be quite off, I think. I was actually planning to do it with the engine running. Take the lever off, then rotate the shaft until something changes in the sound, and then move it back a bit and put the lever back on. Or do you think it's enough if I just loosen the two Torx screws and adjust the position of the lever on the other lever?

Thank you all, and best regards.
Leo.

Wow... the last time I worked on a diesel engine with a mechanical injection pump was back in 2006. If it wasn't working correctly, I would adjust each part of the linkage little by little until it worked properly.

Reading.

ESP: Seal the lid and adjustment shaft.

https://share.google/on8ldhzYjOWlCfnih

Good evening.

So, I just disassembled my starter motor on my Caddy, cleaned it, lubricated it a bit, and reassembled it because I thought it was turning too slowly and drawing too much power. Now it's spinning noticeably faster.

And lo, the car started after about 20 seconds of cranking, without using the start pilot system. (However, it required cold start accelerator and approximately 40 seconds of pre-glow.)

Now it was emitting a light gray/black (more gray) smoke again.

After about a minute of idling, I loosened the fuel screw until the engine was just barely running smoothly at idle. It was approximately one full turn.

Actually, it's running really well now. It also starts up quickly if it has been running just before.

He started bleeding quite heavily about 4 minutes into the procedure, which was concerning. Could this be related to my potentially very early implantation (1.03 mm)?

Also, another question: Is it normal for the coolant to already be quite warm at the upper radiator hose after just 4 minutes of idling?

Best regards,
Leo.

Hi!

Well, that actually looks quite good already.

I would then suggest checking the valve timing again and setting the injection timing to the factory specification, ideally somewhere in the middle of the tolerance range.

You should also check the glow plugs; they often fail on these engines.
However, they can be easily replaced and are not expensive.
If you have a clamp meter that can measure direct current (DC),...
It starts at 64 amps and then stabilizes at 48 amps after 5 seconds.
Then there's a fuse for the glow plugs, which you might want to replace as a precaution.
The fuse is like a thin strip of metal, and they can simply break without any apparent reason.

That's probably just normal with the coolant.
I had to check if the thermostat and the fan were working properly.
Bleed the cooling system again; it doesn't always work on the first try.

Check the heating heat exchanger inside the cabin.
They sometimes leaked.
Okay, don't disassemble the car, but pay attention to whether the windshield fogs up excessively from the inside, or if the footwell becomes damp.

Have you positioned the throttle lever where it's supposed to be now?

Everything else is secondary.

I'm not sure if the gas lever is in the correct position now. It was previously set to a marking, and I've moved it about two teeth. Now, it seems to respond to the throttle earlier. In fact, it almost feels right.

The glow plugs are okay. I checked them while the injectors were removed.

I've now purchased two more nozzles, as well as the adjustment shims, so that I can get all four nozzles working properly and back to a pressure of 155 bar.

Today, I'm going to continue experimenting and will also push the start of the feeding period back a bit, as it seems to have triggered the "nailing" behavior recently.

Let's see what happens then. I'm just not sure if I should adjust the throttle again. Basically, by doing that, I'm changing the entire setting of the fuel pump.

As long as the throttle isn't where it should be, you can do whatever you want, but first you need to get the fundamentals right.

I don't understand what the problem is; it only takes a few minutes.

Okay, dismantling the lever takes a few minutes. But with the marking he put on it, it's not doing anything. It doesn't even work with starter fluid.

The marking isn't yours... before disassembling it.

So, you have to go step by step until it's right. You already have enough instructions.

Everything else are just secondary construction sites.