Ruckeln bei niedriger Drehzahl (Golf 3 TDi Variant) | Posts 16+

NHG can also be tested like this. Is this in the forum...
/viewtopic.php?t=916&highlight=nhg+klopfen

(Ulf's post)

What exactly is this shaking/jerking like? Complete system crashes or partial system freezes?
If the signal should come from relay 109 (even in case of a fault), it should briefly illuminate the indicator lamp...

So, therefore, a jerk is approximately 2000-2500!
And the acceleration/pull is no longer as crisp as it used to be!

So, definitely no glitches, but just stuttering!

Golfdriver wrote:

So, definitiv keine Ausfälle, sondern nur ein Ruckeln!

Hi,

Please take a look at the following post:
/viewtopic.php?t=2631&highlight=ruckeln+1z
"DocSnydor" (maybe you know him...) also wanted to eliminate the 1Z issue there... The result was a rather expensive pump replacement.
You can test this by disconnecting the tachometer sender at the rear of the gearbox and then if the shaking stops.
If there are no actual failures, then the probability of a defective NHG is likely lower.

P.S.: I also had a somewhat problematic 1Z myself, and your description of the issues sounds exactly the same. I sold the car as it was, unfortunately, and embarked on a PD (presumably "Pony Descent") adventure.

What do you think about maybe replacing the injectors and needle valve actuators with used ones instead???

I've taken a look around/done some research, and you can actually get them quite cheaply! How many km should they have at most?

Who can tell me something about the term 'NBF nozzle'?
I read something in an advertisement, and it said that it was an improved, more expensive version! Does it really exist and is it also an original VAG part???

If you mean this: 2446871560

NBF stands for Needle Movement Sensor and is the same as the Needle Actuator.

He probably means that the "expensive" nozzle, specifically the one from cylinder 3, is almost as expensive as the other three combined.

Check out Henzo at: www.dieselsend.de

Oops, Henzo doesn't have any DI-Dues anymore!?!??!?

m;

Golfdriver wrote:

I've taken a look around/done some research, and you can actually get them quite cheaply! How many km should they have at most?

Hi Golfdriver,

aaaaah, re-homing on eBay Personally, I would avoid such things. Who knows how they were refurbished (clinically clean?) and whether they really have the stated mileage. So, in principle, I would buy new (you can also find new ones on eBay). At my parts dealer, the price is {PRICE} in exchange for the 1z:

80 Euro per piece, excluding NBF
127 Euro/piece with NBF

Golfdriver wrote:

What do you think about maybe replacing the fuel injectors, including the needle valve, with used ones instead??? I've taken a look around/done some research, and you can actually get them quite cheaply! How many km should they have at most? Who can tell me something about the term "NBF nozzle"? I read something in an advertisement, and it said that it was an improved, more expensive version! Does it really exist and is it also an original VAG part???

Hey, it seems you're really focused on the nozzles/NBF. Or?
Are you truly certain that the parts are defective, without further testing?
And in this situation, are you also willing to insert needles into yourself from which you cannot make any statements about their behavior/condition?
Have you ever thought about a nozzle test (for tightness and spray pattern)?


Sorry, but I can't handle this... it's too complicated for me. :kopfschüttel:

I already asked above how and where I can get it tested to find out exactly what is wrong, but no one has responded!
What do these tests cost, and is it a service that I might get for free at my local VAG dealership (perhaps as part of a repair), even if I'm paying for the repair?

Hello Golf Driver!

I asked above how and where I could get it tested to find out exactly what is wrong, but no one responded!
HOWEVER!!!

Please read our answers carefully, then you will see DocSnydor's answer further up, in which he writes:

NHG, you can also test for this. Is this in the forum...
/viewtopic.php?t=916&highlight=nhg+klopfen

(Ulf's post)


Always read carefully and, if necessary, use the search function, otherwise, most of us will definitely not have time for such double postings like mine. Each person must be able to read this themselves.

Sorry for the sharp tone. But if someone claims that no one would respond if the answer is clearly stated there, I find that quite inappropriate.

Greetings
-Private

Golfdriver wrote:

I asked above how and where I could get it tested to find out exactly what is wrong, but no one responded!

... So, if you haven't read the answers you were given, then we probably don't need to continue discussing this topic here.
I have provided you with two links to your error description (nozzle check, problems with the ESP). "DocSnydor" has provided a link related to troubleshooting the NHG. "haehnlein" and I refer you to the search function (which, incidentally, contains a wealth of information on this topic).

Quote:

What do these tests cost, and is it a service that I might be able to get for free at my local VAG dealership (perhaps as part of a free repair if I'm having work done there)?

This is probably the most ridiculous (sorry) question you could ask in a SCHRAUBER forum. Most people here do this themselves. It might be difficult to obtain cost information.
You have also been advised to build your own diagnostic adapter (you can find plenty of instructions in the forum). If you are not able to do this, then buy one (online auction house). You can get this done quickly and easily, as I assume that the diagnosis won't be free for you (unless you have connections).

With the diagnostic tool, you can make very accurate statements about the engine and its surroundings. The data you obtain with it, you can then post here, and then I can help you. Everything else is just pointless guesswork and won't get you anywhere. The money you're spending too much on can be better invested in a professional diagnostic system (Prices and information can be found here in the forum).

Please don't misunderstand me. This is not a criticism of you, but you are on your way to only replacing parts that may not even be broken. And that costs unnecessary money. Start from the beginning and not from the end.

So, I finally got a diagnostic interface and yesterday I wanted to do a test drive with a log file, but then the jerking suddenly disappeared and the performance seems to be back to almost 100%!

Did I not intentionally cause it to stutter a few days prior, so it's possible that the stuttering has already been gone for a few days.

I can't seem to get the 'rattle' anymore by driving up a hill at 70 mph in 5th gear. The engine is running perfectly, smoothly, and easily climbs the hill!

What could it be?
Does this (current) disappearance also provide clues as to what might be causing it, or what it might not be causing?

What values should I specifically read out and how should the trip look?
Full acceleration or intermittent acceleration, braking??

Thank you already

(I hope I haven't asked another silly question again, otherwise no one will take me seriously anymore!)