Kurbelwelle fixieren beim 1,9TDI AFN, welches Werkzeug ? | Posts 16+

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..., I bought a brand new VAG part directly from the local dealer and then realized that the Conti part was about 2-3 cm longer compared to the new VAG part...

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Okay, explain to us how that's supposed to be done. I don't know of any clamping system that can compensate for 3 cm, let alone the valve timing.

There is nothing to object to about the Contisatz itself (if it is original and properly installed). It lasts as long as the dirt from the . If it wears out prematurely, the cause is something else, e.g., misalignment of the ESP.

Then explain to us how that can be achieved. I don't know of any clamping system that can compensate for 3 cm, not to mention the valve timing.
Hmm... maybe, as Boro described, the timing belt ribs wore out during the last few revolutions, which is why it expanded so much at the end. *Speculation mode off.*

There is nothing to object to about the Contisatz itself (if it is original and properly installed). It lasts just as long as the (partially) dirt from icon_biggrin.gif. If it wears out prematurely, the cause is something else, e.g., misalignment of the ESP.
Haha, besides the smile your statement puts on my face, I'm a little more reassured now.

'Thanks for your input.'
Pete.

I can't tell you exactly, but it was definitely at least 2 cm (when stretched with my thumb). That might explain why my fuel pump couldn't be adjusted properly back then! According to the performance curve, the value was in the ideal range, but it could only start with extreme advance timing, meaning the pump was running at its limit.

'And as I mentioned, the defects were the excessive stretching and the fact that parts of the ribs appeared to be corroded, exposing the metal hooks. During the belt's operation, it was once noticed that the lower screw of the pump was loose, simply because the mechanic hadn't tightened it properly! Perhaps that really is the explanation...'

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I can't tell you exactly, but it was definitely at least 2 cm (stretched with my thumb)

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It's definitely impossible that it can stretch so far without tearing. It's not a condom .
I think a wrong belt might have been installed.

Normally, you'll hardly notice any difference in length when comparing the old and new belts side by side. And if there is a difference, it's usually only within a millimeter range. Otherwise, the tolerances for valve timing wouldn't be guaranteed over that distance.

Believe me , it was a completely normal Conti tire with 137 teeth! Unfortunately, I no longer have that tire or a picture of it ... somewhere in my posts from 2007, there might be more information about it.

'...and even the last one was slightly stretched, as I said, about 0.5 cm... you can really notice it when you put the old belt back on; it goes on easily, but with the new one, you have to press quite hard for it to go over the non-drive wheel.'

Perhaps I can figure it out when I replace the belt... I'm getting old, and I'll compare the old and new ones to see if there's a difference. I've had the current one in since 90,000 km (it now has 180,200 km).

Best regards.
Pete.

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Believe me icon_biggrin.gif, it was a completely normal Conti tire with 137 teeth! Unfortunately, I no longer have it or a picture of it.

Perhaps someone would like to calculate by how many degrees of crankshaft rotation the camshaft is retarded when the timing chain stretches by 10 mm in its tensioner, and by what amount the valve stems then shorten .

I haven't measured it precisely, but I've never noticed any significant elongation of the old timing chain while holding it.
I have never seen an old timing belt fail that was supposed to be replaced according to the maintenance schedule.
Roller bearings and water pumps are almost always either noisy or have excessive play.
However, I also don't know of any belts that are slipped or running at an angle.
I don't have any customers with old, screw-type engines.

@Pete

Did everything go well with the switch?

It was determined that the Conti tire was approximately 2-3 cm longer than the new VAG tire.
PowerGrip (old version) vs. Conti (new version): the old one was 1-2 mm longer.

Did everything go well with the change???
No, unfortunately not.
After I fixed the camshaft and pump, and then looked at the TDC (Top Dead Center) mark on the transmission, it wasn't exactly centered.
What should I do? I'm removing the timing belt tensioner, aligning the crankshaft precisely to TDC (Top Dead Center), and now the timing belt won't go back on, even though there's a half-tooth gap between the water pump pulley and the crankshaft sprocket.
I'm not sure, maybe I actually need the tool to loosen the camshaft sprocket.

greetings
Peter.

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When I had fixed the camshaft and pump, and then looked at the TDC mark on the transmission, it wasn't exactly in the middle.

"How many degrees of crankshaft rotation (KW) are we talking about, or how many millimeters can be seen on the flywheel, and in which direction is it located?"

And remember that the ignition timing can only be accurately determined when the belt is properly tensioned.

The position of the belt when it's slightly off by half a tooth isn't necessarily indicative of anything significant.

Hello!

I finally managed to do it.
This crappy, cheap tool from eBay.
The centering pin did not hold the pump perfectly in place.
With a slight pressure, meaning a rotation (which allowed the game to happen), on the impeller towards...
I was able to place the timing chain on the crankshaft, and it just barely cleared the camshaft gear.

The machine is now running as it did before.
Okay, I'll now attach the diagnostic software from Rainer and include the instructions for configuration.
review / make a decision.

I have one more question. Is it only necessary to loosen the screws on the impeller to replace them in the version where you access them directly? Or is it also required in the version where you rotate the entire pump?
Should you release the pressure in the high-pressure lines after turning on the pump?

Thank you everyone, and best regards.
Peter.

Post Scriptum.
How many degrees of KW (kilowatt), or how many millimeters can be seen on the flywheel, and in which direction is it located next to it?
When I first looked at the timing mark through the inspection hole, the mark on the flywheel (with the camshaft and pump wheel fixed - as mentioned, the locking pin was/is useless) was approximately (I recall) 2-4mm to the right of the mark on the transmission. What exactly does this mean (valve opening time...? )

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This damn cheap tool from the online marketplace. The centering pin did not hold the pump in position 100%.

I always use a drill there... it fits perfectly.

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When you turn the pump on, do you need to release the pressure in the high-pressure lines afterwards?

They are not required to be, but the likelihood of a pipe bursting is lower if they are not under tension.

Best regards, Rainer.

I always use a drill there... it fits perfectly. icon_smile.gif

just like me, Rainer, one size fits in there exactly...



I always double-check the connections to make sure they're secure. The problem is that the front ones need to be completely removed so you can loosen and reattach the rear ones .


@Pete
Congratulations! You're incredibly proud when it finally works.

Regarding the belt, it should ideally be like that, but the one I had before was extremely stretched and worn. It was probably a cheap imitation. I'm 100% sure that the new one was the correct length, and the old one wasn't longer... but whatever, in retrospect.

I compared the straps and promised to post the results regarding their stretch here.
The old belt (with 90,000 to 180,000 km on it) from Powergrip was different compared to the new one.
Contitec stretched by 2mm.
With the new belt, fuel consumption has decreased by 0.5 liters per 100 kilometers.

best regards.
Peter.