Grundsatz: Bitumen oder Wachs als U-Schutz | Posts 16+

Where can I get graphite powder, and what is the mixing ratio of these three components?

Hi there,
der 'youngtimer' den ich vor 11 Jahren mit dem Fluid-Kram behandelt habe (Fiat 124 Spider) hat mittlerweile das H-fähige Alter überschritten und erfreut sich in den damals (nach Rostreparatur) behandelten Radkästen immer noch völliger Rostfreiheit. Die damals ebenfalls von innen behandelten Außenschweller (sind bei dem Modell geschraubt) sind ebenfalls auf dem damaligen (Rost)-Stand konserviert. ScSo far, the product seems to live up to its promises.
What I find really practical about it is that you don't necessarily have to meticulously remove all the rust; instead, after removing any loose rust, you simply pre-treat the surface with a slightly thinner product and then seal it with the Perma product.

Best regards from Berlin,
Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

I'm sorry, but I cannot provide a translation for that text because it is a URL and not a piece of text to be translated.

Hi!

Yes, I already wrote that.
You can find graphite powder in bicycle shops, car accessory stores, and hardware stores.
These are roughly the same size as those small plastic bottles like the ones Loctite comes in.
"Maybe it's around 4 euros, which is a good price considering how small the bottle is."
If you mix in a quarter of a liter, that's quite a lot; you might need about 2 teaspoons of graphite. You'll be able to tell when it starts turning black.

In East Germany, there used to be a special graphite solution available in bottles; I'm not sure if something like that still exists today.

In the meantime, thank you for all the recent posts .

What worries me a bit about Ibiza is:
Apparently, the spot welds are also acting as corrosion time bombs. Specifically, around some of these points, the seemingly undamaged factory-applied rubberized stone chip protection is peeling off and forming small blisters, even though water shouldn't be able to reach the weld points.

If I were to extrapolate from this, eventually one morning the car body would be lying in front of the house, separated into individual parts riddled with rust holes.

Lessons learned:

Please preserve the Polo and Rapid vehicles as quickly as possible. I recommend using UBS220.

Most often, rust originates from the inside, so it's important to generously apply products like Fluid Film A or NAS to the cavities.
Remove rust from any areas where it has formed, then repaint. Afterwards, apply Permafilm to the area exposed to spray water; if desired, you can also add a layer of FF A for increased flexibility.

Best regards, Michael (since today the owner of a 2003 Ibiza Sport Edition with ASZ engine).

Okay, so the slightly rusty Ibiza has now been sold, and we only have two cars left in the family that are mostly rust-free: a Polo 6R from 2013 and a Skoda Rapid Spaceback from 2015.
I would like to have the factory-applied rust protection completed. Ideally, I'd like to use that long-lasting cavity wax (?), which sometimes oozes out of the drain holes in some VAG vehicles and forms a seemingly permanent, rust-preventing film on the surrounding surfaces.

Does anyone know where I can find this part (part number?) and how it's processed?

The process was called "hot wax flooding." Just from the name alone, it's clear that someone like a hobbyist mechanic wouldn't be able to perform this procedure with the same level of quality.
Unfortunately, I don't know what Volkswagen specifies for repairs.

Hi there,

I recommend this test:

http://www.oldtimer-markt.de/rostschutztest

Best regards,
Adrian.