BKC Golf V zweites Mal Zahnriemen defekt innerhalb 2 Jahren | Posts 24+

Jojo81 wrote:

They were replaced with the tougher ones from the ARL engine, which is not uncommon for performance-enhanced "small" PD engines. They were also tightened again correctly during the process. Since then, there has been no coolant loss after full-throttle runs (head-lift aside). But that has nothing to do with the story about the dental rim. As I said, I suspect the camshaft area because of feedback here and also from the master mechanic. Therefore, I'll take a look at it in the next few days.

Here's the translation:

"This is how you ruin a ZK seal and risk damaging the ZK itself."
Herbert.

And then what?
Warped cylinder head = stiff camshaft?

Hello.

Yes, you're absolutely right (with one camshaft wheel). However, my theory only works with a single camshaft wheel.

I contacted a colleague who has done many timing belt replacements, and he shares the same opinion as some of my colleagues here: A TDI engine probably won't "survive" one or more instances of a skipped tooth on the timing belt, or this would likely be the first case where no damage occurred... because it's probably not technically possible.

In my opinion, something is noticeably harder to move than usual and requires more force.

For me, it would make some sense if the problem originated in the rear wheel, although I also think the damage to the timing chain originates at the crankshaft sprocket because a much greater force is transmitted there, and the contact area and radius are significantly smaller than at the top.

Have you ever seen the LLR?
If something is broken or damaged, it simply can't function properly or look good, no matter what.
Regarding the twist angle...

Some other "actions" are quite peculiar and may not exactly be considered optimal...

Sure thing! Please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation without any explanations.
Manfred.

We could keep complaining for a long time... but that won't solve your problem, just like a new timing belt wouldn't.

If everything were still okay with me and the rest of the vehicle, I would take the head off right now and examine it.

Reasons for this:

Repeated timing belt breakage or tooth stripping will almost certainly lead to a collision between the pistons and valves.


Your suggestion to replace the ZK screws doesn't seem sensible given the proposed procedure.


After that, decide what needs to be done. It's possible that traces of the NW (Northwest) can already be detected when removing the valve cover, but this requires quite a bit of disassembly.



Otherwise, there's nothing much to say about the topic itself.

There's only one thing to do: get your head down, take it apart, and examine it! Everything else is pointless.

Either the needle valve is stuck in its bearings because the valves are seizing at high temperatures, or the valves are compressed and jammed in their guides.

P.S.: The front wheel and the rear wheel also need to be replaced... they will have likely been affected by the prolonged stress.