hintere Reifen innen stark abgefahren | Posts 24+

Statement:
That doesn't matter.

The Touran had 16-inch alloy wheels .

vag-driver wrote:

Yesterday, I had an appointment for a measurement and adjustment . I received this appointment from a colleague who is responsible for the company's vehicle fleet. The professional is located in Darmstadt. After waiting for approximately 45 minutes, I was finally allowed to proceed to the axle testing station. 1. Statement from an expert: I don't know why the front right camber always differs from the left by 1 degree on VW vehicles. We observe this on our test bench. 2. Statement from an expert: I'm not sure if it's even possible to adjust the rear camber that much. And after that, the alignment will also need to be adjusted. We'll need to schedule a new appointment for that. 3. My observation: The first version was called Touran, not Sharan. 4. Statement from an expert: At Volkswagen, the values are all the same for all models. Now you know why I refused. And my feeling was right. Result: I lost €121 at a professional establishment and have an appointment with VW next Friday.

You have a private message.

Now I have received the survey report .

I'm not sure if "standard suspension" is the correct term. My car has the DCC (Dynamic Chassis Control) system installed.

I contacted Volkswagen and was lucky enough to speak with the person who had performed the measurements.

His statements:
The misaligned rear axle was the main cause of tire wear.
2. Adjusting the headlight alignment is only complicated on the Sharan 7N model. The wheels need to be removed in order to adjust the screw. This needs to be reported to the car's computer system, as the vehicle needs to be lifted. Depending on one's skill level, this procedure may need to be repeated.
3. If the alignment is correct and the vehicle's tilt is within the manufacturer's tolerance, the tire will not wear unevenly.

I'm not quite sure what to make of statement number 2 yet.

What new features have been added recently?
hg
Herbert.

vag-driver wrote:

I don't know if the standard suspension is correct. I have the DCC system installed.

DCC has different target values than the standard suspension. The differences are only about 10 units apart when initially viewed, which is within the tolerance range of each respective suspension system. However, even though the differences are small, the limits are still different, and what might be acceptable for one suspension system could already be outside the acceptable range for another.

VW offers a total of three parameter sets: Base, BlueMotion, and DCC (Dynamic Chassis Control) Sport. This likely depends primarily on the different ride heights.

I've never adjusted the suspension myself before, but the Volkswagen manual doesn't mention removing the wheels. It essentially says:
Loosen the upper ball joint from the strut mount and adjust the camber by turning the eccentric bolt. I would suggest you take a look at that to see if you need to remove the wheels first.

Herbert wrote:

What has been newly added/posted now?

The alignment was adjusted on all four wheels.

Normally, a survey report includes the input values and the output values.
hg
Herbert.

Herbert wrote:

Normally, a survey report includes the input values and the output values.

It is also noted in the protocol.

Quote:

2. The alignment is only complicated to adjust on the Sharan 7N. The wheels must be removed in order to adjust the screw. This, of course, needs to be communicated to the computer because the car has to be lifted. Depending on skill, this procedure may need to be repeated.

Without effort, there is no reward. However, given the problem, it defies my understanding why he didn't at least correct the tilt to the "target value." Personally, I would have considered -1°10' to be optimal for your situation.

Quote:

3. If the alignment is correct and the camber is within the manufacturer's tolerance, the tire will not wear unevenly.

At least it could get better... the track was off by more than half a degree. Additionally, it will now be slightly more stable on the rear axle when cornering, but also a bit slower in terms of responsiveness...

Quote:

I'm not quite sure what to make of statement 2 yet.

That remains to be seen, as I said...

It's a shame about the collapse... the installer doesn't seem to be very diligent... but the measurements themselves appear to be plausible.

Good luck.

We're going on a trip in January with the car COMPLETELY LOADED. It will be approximately 2500 kilometers. If he then notices significant tire wear on the inside edge, that means there's a problem. I told him that too.

The WR (winter tires) are brand new. Then it will be re-aligned, and I'll get new rear tires at VW's expense.

I will report.

Quote:

He can now enter the curve at a faster speed. What do you mean by "responsiveness"?

Here's an exaggerated example: with older models like the Polo or Golf, when taking a turn quickly, the inner wheel completely lifts off the ground. This means that the outer wheel is entirely responsible for maintaining traction and steering.
As long as both rear wheels have the same amount of traction (when driving straight), the rear axle remains neutral.

When there is positive camber on the rear axle and during fast cornering, the outer rear wheel steers the rear axle "inwards." This causes the vehicle to be more prone to understeer, the response becomes slower, and the vehicle feels generally more docile. The intention is essentially to keep the rear axle stable on the inside of the turn.

With negative skewness, the effects are consequently exactly the opposite.
Depending on how much the track is open (negative), for example, during a quick lane change on the highway, you might feel that the rear axle is turning as soon as the vehicle leans and the inner wheel loses grip, or that its grip decreases compared to the outer wheel.


Personally, I don't like the effect when I feel like the rear wheel is pulling outwards, or trying to overtake.

However, in motorsports, an "open track" is sometimes preferred to encourage vehicles to turn more quickly and reduce the tendency to oversteer or understeer.

The intensity of these effects naturally depends on the rear axle design (which influences stability through changes in angle during cornering or when suspension is compressed). However, the principle of steering remains the same.

Quote:

I read the Volkswagen documentation on how to adjust the rear axle alignment. It states that you need a special socket adapter for the torque wrench.

There is no mention of removing the wheel.

No matter what... he didn't do it. As far as I remember, the height adjustment on a Sharan is done in the same way as on a Golf or Passat – via the upper front control arm. It can be a bit tricky depending on the lift you're using, but it's possible.


I hope that you were able to draw some conclusions from the large amount of text }.

Autoservice wrote:

To my recollection, the height adjustment (HA) on the Sharan is adjusted in the same way as on the Golf or Passat, specifically at the front upper control arm.

That's right. They must have the modified ring key, because this type of ignition switch is installed in all newer vehicles.

I have compared the two measurements in detail, as I also uploaded them. In particular, the values for the drop height differ between the two measurement devices.

How is that possible? And more importantly, which ones are correct now?

The last measurement seems the most plausible.
One indication of this is the values for the front axle, which are completely out of alignment in the first inspection.

I believe that the second survey generally shows honest results.