Ursachen für frühzeitigen ESD Verschleiß? | Posts 32+

nickx wrote:

I believe the engine is original, and the 70,000 km mileage seems consistent with the condition of the vehicle. It's a bit strange.

"Did you have the service booklet checked? Is there a red/silver sticker in the engine compartment indicating a timing belt replacement, and does it show the date when the timing belt was last changed? If anything is missing...

The car is usually polished before being sold, and the interior is thoroughly cleaned, which can make it look younger!"

Otherwise, please check the BASIC SETTINGS for the injection start using VCDS.

So, back then, I already checked the plausibility of the mileage reading very carefully.
Service booklets, TÜV (technical inspection) reports, old workshop invoices. If someone wants to falsify the mileage, they only need to alter one of these documents.

The thing about the ZR sticker is interesting. Back then, I specifically made sure there wasn't one on my car. Otherwise, it would have been put on at least 50,000 km too early.

Regardless, that's not the problem. Whether he has money or not, he has to run.

Regards,
Nick.

Just a quick note (it's been a tough week).

A vacuum is generated by a pump (located on the cylinder head, near cylinder 6 - directly below the coolant reservoir in my Passat). This vacuum is used for control purposes (in this case, turbocharger boost control, but also for things like EGR, etc.) and for brake assist. You can test this by repeatedly pressing the brake pedal with the engine off. The pedal will feel 'hard.' Then, press and hold the brake pedal and start the engine. You'll immediately notice how the pedal is assisted - i.e., the brake pressure is amplified. If there's a problem with vacuum production (e.g., a faulty pump) or leaks in the lines, the remaining vacuum may not be sufficient to operate the boost control, which can cause problems with braking (insufficient assistance). To make matters worse, a hose can sometimes be more or less leaky - so the problem doesn't always occur.

For measuring:

A pressure gauge is sufficient to check the achieved vacuum and whether it is stable (from memory, it should be at least 550 mbar, but I need to verify that). A manual vacuum pump is better, as it allows you to directly check if the adjustment moves smoothly and without jerks from stop to stop, and to determine at what vacuum level (adjustment starts at 400 mbar / vacuum is 650 mbar = no supply problems or jammed adjustment).

I'm looking for some values to check with VAGCOM, so I can compare them to the target values.
Also, regarding the initial settings, I believe that the Bosch service center checked them.
Hmmmmhhh, but it's better to see for yourself.

I need to go to sleep now.

Regards,
Harry.