hand-made Start-Stop / generelles Startverhalten | Posts 32+

"Mhhh, Martin, could you check the batteries in the trunk? The bus keeps charging them, even when the ignition is off." Only the front lights turn off with the ignition.

matthiasTDI96 wrote:

Mhhh, Martin, please check the cans in the trunk. The bus is still powering them, even when the ignition is off. Only the front one turns off with the ignition.

I'm pretending to be Martin .

In the 3C, all the igniters are connected via the ignition relay on the BNSTG. The igniters located in the front, under the radio, and the one in the rear, in the center console, are protected by the same fuse. The igniter in the trunk has its own separate fuse. However, both fuses are connected to terminal 15 (or 75, I don't recall the exact number at the moment). The fuse assignments may have changed over the years, but they are always located in the fuse box on the right side and are always connected to the ignition power supply.

It can be easily rewired in the passenger-side fuse box. I'm planning to do the front ones as well. (It's ridiculous that I can't even charge my phone without turning on the ignition...)

@Martin:
A 1.2Ah battery should be sufficient as long as the device is not under heavy load. The navigation system and radio will likely have the longest run time; you might need to remove the fuse to speed up the charging process. But remember to leave the doors open, or at least close the door latches (otherwise, even with the interior light off, the footwell lights and door warning lights will still be on). After that, the power consumption will be low enough (but you've already measured that yourself ).

Regards,
Guste.

Oh oh oh,

I think the battery is dying.
Even though it had been standing in the cold for 2 days, it started up quite well today.

A little while ago, at a traffic light:
The car in front of me is farting, so I let loose and gently release a fart.
Roll again, and press the key again...

Loud honking and a yellow steering wheel indicator on the dashboard... after 300 meters, the steering wheel disappeared.

Code:

Adresse 44: Lenkhilfe       Labeldatei: RKS\1Kx-909-14x.lbl    Steuergerät-Teilenummer: 1K1 909 144 L   Bauteil und/oder Version: EPS_ZFLS Kl.136 H07 1806                  Codierung:             Betriebsnummer: WSC 02069 000 90108 1 Fehler gefunden: 00446 - Funktionseinschränkung durch Unterspannung             002 - unterer Grenzwert unterschritten - Sporadisch              Umgebungsbedingungen:                     Kilometerstand: 56010 km                     Temperatur: 7.0°C                     Spannung: 8.50 V                     Spannung: 8.30 V

Steering and starting are therefore bad.
Just before the car started to spin out of control, I could clearly feel the "assistance" kicking in when I turned the steering wheel very gently.

m;

Confusion...

This morning, despite the temperature being -6.5 degrees Celsius, the battery seemed to be working well, which is good considering the potential for a general battery failure in such cold conditions.
The 88Ah bus battery will be connected in parallel this weekend, and then data will be logged.

By the way, I can perfectly use my existing AHK (Anhängerkupplung - trailer hitch) wiring harness for buffering... I just realized that.

m;

Now, just tell me if you want the extra battery that I've been holding back for you, and stop messing around with testing and all that...
I just received some more, winter is going to be cold!

Hello everyone!

teileklaus wrote:

Now... I just received some more, winter is going to be cold!

How unfriendly and stressed the salespeople are everywhere during the Christmas season...
Have you ever noticed this?

Best regards from Munich!

PS: Martin, get a new one and that's it, because the old one is definitely broken, judging by the logs!

AAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHH

Have you looked into how a battery replacement is performed on a 3C 2.0 TDI?
It's actually quite simple:
"Disassemble everything you find."
"Replace the battery."

Does the entire air filter housing really need to be removed?
This is how the "experts" see it .

m;

I'm glad I didn't include that. Sold for 88,- including installation.

I'm going to exchange 3C for 3C now (it's less effort than exchanging 1K, and I currently have two 3C available).

m;

Quote:

AAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHH Have you looked into how a battery replacement is performed on a 3C 2.0 TDI? Does the entire air filter housing really need to be removed?

That is more time-consuming than creating a post here .

and that will definitely make things easier.


P.S. Even better:

"Image shows the part with the engine disassembled for better visibility."

There must be reasons for wages... someone was just now questioning their €3xx bill. The reason was the exchange of a .

OK.
exchanged.

You almost don't have to remove anything.
- Remove the battery cover.
- Remove the front half of the battery cover (loosen the two hooks at the bottom front with a long screwdriver).
- Release the clamping bracket (SW13).
- Pole los (SW10)
- Battery out.

In my case, the speed was so high that even the ESP and steering assist systems maintained their values.
I had to drive 10 meters before the other person could figure out where they were.

The starting behavior hasn't changed significantly, although both cars were driven earlier today.
Let's see how it performs after being idle for a longer period.

m;

Please help me think.
3C Var 11/06 93 Tkm BMP starts quickly.
3C Var 02/07 61 Tkm BMR starts slowly.
Regardless of which of the two batteries.

What else can I investigate or log to understand the reason for the difference?
Only a transition resistance on the grounding cable of the battery management system (BMS) would fit there.

However, this doesn't quite align with the seemingly significant drop in voltage observed after the engine has been running (e.g., when the door is already open, the interior light is on, and the engine is stopped).


"Tomorrow, I'm going to do the following test (using batteries that I've already replaced):"
01-012-016 Log: Start, run for 20 seconds, then stop.

Then, one should be able to detect "something" based on the residual voltage after the power is turned off.

m;

Hi Martin,

I'm assuming you've already checked the quiescent current and quiescent voltage before starting, as well as the charging voltage.

Do you have an oscilloscope available?

If yes:
- Battery voltage during starting.
- Starter motor voltage during starting.

If the battery voltage is similar before starting, but the voltage drops during starting at the BMR (Battery Management System), then it's likely drawing a higher current. If available, this can be recorded using a good DC clamp ammeter connected to an oscilloscope. But something like that is usually not available.

If the battery voltage is similar, but the voltage reaching the starter motor during the BMR (Battery Management Routine) is lower, then there are resistance issues.

It might also be interesting to measure the power consumption with the ignition on but without starting the engine for both vehicles. Perhaps the BMR also has some functions running during startup that the BMP doesn't have or disables (in extreme cases, even the glow plugs).

Btw: Do you indicate with "starts slower or faster" the RPM while the starter is turning, but the ignition has not yet occurred, or the time between pressing the ignition key and the first spark?

Regards,
Guste.

Sure, here's the translation:

"Guste"
Since I only have the BMP available this week, let's set up a measurement scenario.

I have:
- 1-2 standard digital multimeters.
- no oscilloscopes, pliers, or similar tools.
- Connect VCDS to the installed STGs (they may also have different values).


Based on the Volt logs, the BMR seems to need one more revolution.
At the current temperatures, it doesn't necessarily run slower.
"He used to do 'slow turns' in the winter - but it always started up."

Can the voltage converters of the piezoelectric devices contribute to the different magnitudes of the main currents, or what?

m;


Okay, I'll start:
- Idle currents after preheating, before start.
- Compare the battery voltage with the reading from the multimeter connected to the motor control unit (STG-012).
- Speed and voltage at startup (01-002-012 Turbo log).
- After startup, log the value of 01-016 (generator load).