Kurbelwellenrad 1Z nach einem Monat wieder ausgeschlagen | Posts 32+

The description is actually sufficient for me....

Quote: "This tool is a special tool for VW/Audi, belonging to the category of engine tools. The purpose of this tool is to specifically reduce the time required for the task and to make the work much easier. "It is used for the Fresen of the crank-well rim."

I would have never found this thing, since I mistakenly write "fräsen" with an "ä".

Deus Violentia wrote:

I wouldn't have found this thing anyway, since I mistakenly write "fräsen" with an "ä"...

Then learn to write properly, man!

No, I would also avoid that. Please, give a friendly 20-year-old a chance to borrow it.

Quote:

What do you think of the methods posted here? For example, the "sweat point" or "stiffening" method? What do you think of my method using a wedge? Since the inserted sheet should also be quite thin.

While I am not being asked, I have made the following observation:

If the pulley wheel detaches, as is the case here, the flat surface is always (in the 1/100mm range) damaged or rounded off. This can be easily proven by marking the area with a pen and then lightly removing it with a small piece (approximately 50mm in length) of a body file.

So, it really doesn't work without planing stones.
Welding or stiffening weakens the material, while stiffening also causes additional material displacement. No matter what you do, it will never be the same again.

Personally, I would rather try to improve the situation than just give up.
If done carefully, only the edge of the stump is affected, and one has the theoretical possibility of restoring the shape.

Subsequently, I hereby:
http://www.loctite.de/cps/rde/xchg/SID-066FA109-4A7D2B5E/henkel_de/hs.xsl/komplette-produktliste-loctite-29728.htm?iname=Loctite+121078&countryCode=de&BU=industrial&parentredDotUID=productfinder&redDotUID=000001F76J#a

as support for the fit and use of an original KW wheel (nothing against Febi), install the parts.

Where do you want to apply the Loctite? On the thread or in the fitting? For the fit, I would then use Loctite thread locker, with the following idea:

Does this refer to "permanently secure" or "never again loose"? If you've used Loctite to securely mount the wheel, then, in my opinion, the situation has become quite serious.
No one will do that again. There's also the version with the sweat stain that's still reversible.

Also, ich habe noch eine zusätzliche Frage:
How do you open or close the central screw?
Securing the crankshaft, as far as I know, doesn't work on the AFN.
So, the best thing to do is to engage the gear, pull the handbrake, and then open and close the clutch with the timing belt installed?

Stay away from that Ebäh Scheixx! Serious planers have an asymmetrical tooth profile to counteract the Rattermarke. Very important for hand-held milling – I mean, specifically for applications outside of stable work environments, such as those typically found in machine tools.
Furthermore, this cutter gives a very cheap impression, which makes me doubt the hardening process of the cutting edges. Apart from a correct sharpening of the cutting edges after hardening. These are my valve seat cutting tools, used for working on higher-quality shut-off valves.
Attaching slides - http://www.hasberg-schneider.de/deutsch/beispiel.html - I would also strongly advise against. This is definitely not the intended use for such things. Too soft!
Countering the KW is nonsense; you can't achieve accurate torque this way. Using a power drill to tighten and then counter-tighten using a wrench is the most reliable way to achieve the desired torque!

Quote:

Where are you planning to use the Loctite? On the thread or into the fitting?

This actually stems from the text.

Since "dry" threads (depending on the material combination) tend to loosen and strip (the clamping force is achieved before the torque), I think that's why a relatively low clamping force is specified, and the clamping force is then achieved through angular adjustment (thread friction, regardless). Whether it is a "genuine" self-tapping screw,

Personally, I hate dry threads. Therefore, in such cases, I tend to use Loctite blue (for simple to medium-strength screw connections) to prevent loosening.

A constructor who can only create a screw connection by simply fastening parts together should, in my opinion, be placed in Legoland or Toys R us.

Quote:

How do you open or close the central screw? Securing the crankshaft, as far as I know, doesn't work on the AFN. So, am besten: Gang rein, Handbremse an und mit montiertem Zahnriemen öffnen und schließen?

Dafür gibt es einen Halter, der am KW-Rad befestigt wird.

In my opinion, the locking rule should significantly differ depending on whether the screw is oiled or un-oiled, right?

Quote:

In my opinion, the tightening specification should differ significantly depending on whether the screw is oiled or un-oiled, right?

I believe that these relatively low pre-tensioning torques are chosen because, at this stage, the friction plays a "minor" (perhaps a few degrees) role, so that in the end, the desired clamping force (regardless of the material) is always achieved.

In plain language for my terms: Torque x + Angle adjustment Y = Screw tightened, regardless of whether it's dry or wet.

Hi,
It's actually the other way around. The tightening torques of screws are determined based on the bolt cross-section, thread pitch, and friction torques of the threads and head contact surface. The friction torques definitely play a role in the calculation of tightening torques. When determining tightening torques, it is normally assumed that the threads and contact surfaces are unlubricated. "Unlubricated" does not mean dry; there may be preservatives and surface treatments present. Both prevent eating.
The friction coefficients, especially for rolled coils, are well-known, e.g. Table values.
With lubricated threads, the friction values are strongly dependent on the type of lubrication, i.e., the friction values vary more widely. Self-restraint has been reduced.
For the M14x1.5 screw with grade 12.9 and standard head, without lubrication, a tightening torque of 274 Nm is specified for the 90% yield strength. With 90 Nm plus 90°, the elongation of approximately 0.4 mm is definitely exceeded, meaning the screw shank will be stretched. The experience with key extension and counter-engagement also shows that we are significantly beyond 270 Nm with the KW screw.
hg
Herbert

Quote:

Hi, It's actually the other way around. The tightening torques of screws are determined based on the bolt cross-section, thread pitch, and friction torques of the threads and head contact surface. The friction torques definitely play a role in the calculation of tightening torques. When determining tightening torques, it is normally assumed that the threads and contact surfaces are unlubricated. "Unlubricated" does not mean dry; there may be preservatives and surface treatments present. Both prevent eating.

Certainly. "However, it is mainly the angle-based approach that leads to a more accurate hit, compared to relying solely on torque, because friction then plays a less significant role."

Quote:

For the M14x1.5 screw with grade 12.9 and standard head, without lubrication, a tightening torque of 274 Nm is specified for the 90% yield strength. With 90 Nm plus 90°, the specified elongation of approximately 0.4 mm will be exceeded, meaning the screw shank will be stretched. The experience with key extension and counter-torque also shows that we are significantly beyond 270 Nm with the KW screw.

The fact is, and experience repeatedly shows us, that this connection is useless. What about the friction, if the screws have been tightened x times already?

Hi,
Therefore, one also uses an angle-specific suit in the second stage.

That the connection is vulnerable can have several causes:
- Previous assembly error;
- excessive tolerance in the fit (the manufacturer refers to a "form-fitting element!"); if the screw is constantly subjected to torsion, it will eventually loosen, in my opinion.
- Material fatigue (i.e., in the design, the load cases and load cycles are not adequately considered);

What do you think of a recommendation for regular check-ups? I mean something like this:
- Clearly mark the spur gear and screw to each other (e.g., with a safety pin);
- Visual inspection every 15,000 km during oil change (if visible?);
- especially after the initial marking with 90 Nm, the screw should not move during this process. The 90 Nm should not be sufficient to bring the screw back above the flow limit.
- Must be resolved at the latest during the ZR change.

hg
Herbert

Quote:

What do you think of a recommendation for regular check-ups?

Basically, nothing. If the screw should move when reaching 90Nm or so, it's already too late. And whether the screw still has its holding power can probably hardly be checked in its installed state using workshop tools.

The only sensible thing I can imagine is to replace everything at Km -stand x or every 2nd ZR- change and to plan the area briefly. But whether it will definitely get better remains uncertain.

I believe that increased attention to the belt drives, specifically regarding runout, imbalance, and wear of the vibration damper, intact Limafreilauf (or similar components), etc., is much more important, because the design fundamentally holds up under optimal conditions.

Okay, I'm getting a planer (a type of milling cutter) tomorrow. I will plan the area for the new bike path nicely tomorrow, and install the new bike.

I'm still quite unsure about how to proceed. Should I remove some of the game first, or insert a piece of a probe? I'm having a problem with the positioning when it comes to the sensor installation.

And then Loctite, or install it in its original condition? I tend towards maintaining the original condition. But, unfortunately, I can't make a good decision

Maybe someone could help me make a decision?

Greetings

Tobi

Hi,
As you can see, the opinions are somewhat diverging.
I would exclusively install RLF. I would only consider removing the workpiece using the feeler gauge method, as the gap at the beveling area is likely to be very small.
Maybe also, get an original bevel gear; you might be able to try it out first. The game could be less important.
Definitely mark the tightened screw. This is your control for later. The screw will not automatically lengthen itself after tightening. Especially as long as the installation areas are in order, the screw's angle of adjustment is an indication of the correct pre-tension.
hg
Herbert

Quote:

Aim to restore it to its original condition.

This condition only exists with a new KW.
You can only try to achieve this state as closely as possible. Either with metal or with chemistry. I would personally mount the front surface dry.