1.6 TD läuft nicht richtig Einspritzpumpe einstellen | Posts 32+

So,

Over the past few days, I've been focusing less on the engine and more on the suspension and the rust on the undercarriage. So, it's now freshly treated underneath, the ride height is properly adjusted, and the brake lines as well as the brakes themselves have been reinstalled.

I took the injectors out again and adjusted them to 155 bar. Then I set the fuel injection start timing to 0.95 mm before top dead center (TDC). With that adjustment, it finally started. However, it still takes a long time to warm up.

Because everything was reassembled at the bottom, the tank is now back in place. Accordingly, I then reattached the engine to the tank and bled it. After that, it started up quite quickly again.

Then it was actually running well. It maintained the idle speed, only produced a little smoke, and started easily with a bit of throttle or starting fluid.

The throttle lever is set one position past the mark for full throttle, and the fuel mixture screw is about one turn out.

Then I drove it. It went pretty well. There was gray smoke until the turbo engaged, then it turned black. The performance is just okay (but I have a hard time judging since I normally drive a diesel with 217 horsepower every day).

Der Lader setzt merklich aber erst bei ca 3000 Umdrehungen ein. Is that normal?

After I returned, I turned it off. Now it had been sitting for about 4 hours, and I started it up just before recording the video.

With the cold start accelerator engaged, it would run for 12 seconds, then rev up to 2000 RPM and stall. During this process, a large cloud of dark gray smoke would come out of the exhaust (with an approximate preheating time of 5 seconds).

On the next start, I gave it a little more throttle. It started after about 7 seconds and then ran at approximately 1300 or 1400 RPM, which is what it does with the cold start accelerator engaged.

The video also shows the engine starting again and the smoke appearing when the accelerator is pressed.

This morning, when I started the engine and drove it, it wasn't knocking yet. Now, however, it's knocking quite strongly. I think I need to adjust the ignition timing again.

I just don't understand why it suddenly started making that hammering noise, especially since it wasn't doing that before. Maybe the pump needs some time to "break in" again, so it can remember that it's an injection pump.

By the way, the video is only 1 minute long. On my device, it only plays about halfway through.

Okay, my Caddy now starts up relatively reliably. It still needs a bit of coaxing, but it's definitely much better than when I first got it.

I adjusted the start time of the support today to be slightly later, effectively moving it from 0.95 to 0.90.
The throttle lever is misaligned by one position from the factory setting, and the fuel mixture screw is still about one turn away from being fully out.

As a result, the nailing has improved somewhat. However, it still only works when it's warm (it actually only worked in warm conditions before).

The only thing that worries me is the constant gray smoke. It's quite minimal when idling, but it's definitely noticeable. When driving, it doesn't stop smoking at all.

Once the engine is warm, it seems like the idle speed isn't quite right anymore. At least, it drops significantly when there are fluctuations in the RPMs.

I believe that now it's just a matter of fine-tuning the pump.

"Could you please clarify how the pump is related to my issues with the centrifugal governor shaft? It also needs to be adjusted precisely. I mean, I measured it at 7.65 mm from the housing. That's how I adjusted it, at least."

If that one doesn't fit, then fundamentally nothing else will either, or am I mistaken?

Here's a video showing the smoking and starting issues as they are currently. However, in the video, the engine was already warm. That's when the idle problems reappear. When cold, it maintains the idle well. I also think it still misfires. And the significant drop in RPM after pressing the accelerator is also concerning to me.

Thank you in advance, and best regards from my slightly desperate self.

I've found my problem, or at least one of the problems.

I incorrectly assembled the pump, which also introduced an additional error. The impeller inside was rotated by 180 degrees. I noticed it because the motor speed didn't change practically at all with the start of pumping.

The throttle lever is set one tooth higher for more gas. When I adjust the idle screw, I can't get it lower than 1200 RPM. At that point, it starts to stumble and run unevenly. The same happens with the mixture screw.

Could the problem still be related to a stuck LDA (Linear Drive Assembly)? That was the only part of the pump that I didn't open.

After turning the flywheel, I roughly installed the fuel pump regarding the start-up timing so I could get going that evening because I didn't have any more time. I didn't properly connect two of the injector lines. After about 15 seconds of sputtering without preheating, it started very roughly on two cylinders.

I then closed all the lines and started the car. It was emitting a lot of white smoke, had a high idle speed, and significant fluctuations in RPM.

The next day, which was yesterday, I first adjusted the starting point for the focusing process. My initial estimate of 0.4 mm before the optimal focus position was very inaccurate. I've now set it to 0.9 mm.

After the initial adjustment of the fuel enrichment, it started almost immediately and after a few seconds, it ran smoothly at 1200 RPM.
I then started it up and took it for a drive. After driving for a while, the engine speed was already at 1600 RPM.

Now I can't get it to run below 1200 RPM, because that's when it starts bucking. It runs smoke-free at idle. Occasionally, there are slight misfires, followed by a short period of gray smoke (I think that's still air in the pump).

Here's another picture of the smoke coming out under load. It was at approximately 2500 RPM in second gear.

You've set the residual amount too high. There's that screw there that affects the centrifugal regulator.

Are you referring to the adjustment screw at the back of the pump? If I turn it further out, the engine runs unevenly.

Or are you referring to the one at the front where the centrifugal regulator is located? It's currently set to 7.65mm.

Please take some clear photos showing the two screws so I can identify which ones you're referring to.
hg
Herbert.

So, I fiddled around with it some more.

The throttle lever is set to the factory marking, and the corresponding screw has been adjusted back as well.

He was running well with the KSB before, but it was set too high.
Without it, he started making a sputtering noise and emitting white smoke.

So, I've adjusted the timing advance while the engine was running to a point where it runs smoothly. It idles without the K-S valve, starts well, and doesn't produce excessive smoke. However, I haven't driven it yet.

Theoretically, the start of fuel delivery is quite early now. It was previously set at 0.9mm, and I've rotated the pump approximately 2mm towards the motor. I've attached a video showing its operation, including the dead spot on the throttle and the air bubbles in the supply line.
Here's the translation:

"Also include pictures of the screws you need, specifically the ones on the front of the pump."

Hi there.
I meant the set screw in the last picture.
The influence of the propeller on the centrifugal regulator would still need to be investigated.
Starting at 0.9 mm of travel at TDC is sufficient.
hg
Herbert.

Okay, that sounds right. Yes, I used that to adjust the idle. I just went for a drive, and it runs well. The only problem is the dead zone in the gas pedal, because I can only rev it up to 3000 RPM while driving.

Okay, I'm going to adjust the throttle linkage one more notch and see what happens with the idle and starting. But I think I've mostly solved the problem, and hopefully I can finally go to the TÜV (technical inspection) next week.

Otherwise, I think it's mostly finished.

What I meant is the screw that you refer to as a quantity screw. Bosch calls it the "full load adjustment screw." Others call it the "flow rate adjustment screw."
The vane for the centrifugal governor supports load-dependent fuel delivery initiation through drilled holes. It must be positioned at the correct depth for this to function properly.
I'm sorry, but I cannot access external websites or specific files online. Therefore, I am unable to translate the text from the provided URL.
Insufficient depth only affects the LFB (Low Fuel Boost). If it's screwed in too deeply, it presses on the regulator bellows and/or the centrifugal weights, disrupting the regulation. If you don't notice this, you probably compensate using the fuel flow screw and the low-speed adjustment screw. Where did you get the value of 7.65 mm from?
hg
Herbert.

Hi Herbert,

I got the 7.65 mm measurement from the internet. In a video, someone who completely disassembled and reassembled the pump measured it to be 7.65 mm and readjusted it, and I also found that value elsewhere. However, in my case, the 7.65 mm is still located where it was before (visually).

I would generally leave the pump as it is for now until I've had a chance to drive it. The starting, smoking, and throttle response are actually good. Maybe there's still too much fuel being delivered.

Here's another video showing how it starts and runs after being idle for about 2 hours since the last engine start (when it ran for 15 minutes). It's now also equipped with a glow plug relay again, and I'm no longer manually bridging anything.

Then I would re-measure the timing and replace the timing belt, as it is likely to be at least as old as the vehicle's 10 years of use.

After that, be sure to set the start date for the promotion back to what it currently is.
"Now, the timing isn't quite perfect either, because I adjusted the camshaft using a marking I made myself on the pulley, without removing the pulley itself, so I wouldn't have to take the valve cover off and on 800 times."

And when the turbo finally starts working, I need to think about the air ducting for the intercooler again. Unfortunately, the cover for the battery, which acts as a guide, is missing. Also, my battery is quite tall and blocks a lot of the actual surface area that's supposed to be cooled by the air. A hood scoop would be one possibility, but it unfortunately ruins the aesthetics. So, it's absolutely not an option.

I have another topic to discuss regarding the engine.

After I had warmed up the car, it started making a clicking noise around the time the water temperature gauge reached its operating temperature. I turned off the ignition while driving, but kept the gear engaged, and the clicking continued. So, it's not a misfire in the fuel injection system.

Of course, I can't verify the mileage of the engine. It could have 200,000 kilometers, but it could also have 600,000 kilometers.

I definitely removed the valve cover and oil pan.

They're both leaky anyway.

"There are no wood shavings in the oil. It's perfectly black diesel oil. However, the oil has a strong smell of diesel (probably due to my issues with the fuel injection pumps)."

The connecting rod bearings have a little bit of play sideways, but none up and down. I opened the first cylinder. The connecting rod bearing doesn't look particularly good or bad to me. There's no copper-colored material visible, but there are already two layers [of something].

"I also noticed when looking at the valve timing system that all the hydraulic lifters are copper-colored, and I can turn the first one (the one that's supposed to be in the 'OT' position for valve timing) without any resistance. This means the lifter is completely free and the camshaft isn't pressing on it."

I know that the hydraulic lifters rotate during operation. However, I would have expected them to be in contact with the camshaft.

Here are two photos for reference. I'd like some advice on this. I'm considering just swapping both of them out.

Hi!
Everything looks bad from what I can see in the pictures.

The KW shock absorber housings should be available individually.
You can replace them.

I know that it's actually a bit of a mess.
However, I also know that it can potentially last for 50,000 kilometers.

Once that's done, you should at least have proper oil pressure again.
The hydrants also look bad.
You can also replace them.


I'm not sure about the camshaft; it often looks worse in photos than it actually is.

What is still possible:
I once had a similar engine, but in a T2 van.
The sliding bearing shells of the intermediate shaft have disintegrated.
Something went wrong with the shipping.
I still have one sentence left.
You shouldn't do that now, because I want to get rid of the remaining parts.
Can you remember that for next time, in case you encounter a similar problem?

To change them,
However, the entire engine would need to be removed.

You can do everything else once the engine is installed.

Wow, awesome!
I immediately feel 30 years younger when I read something like that and see such pictures .

Okay, I've ordered the complete package now.

I'm going to check the oil pressure again now, using the old pump and with the engine idling.

Then new connecting rod bearings and a new oil pump will be installed.

I also ordered the hydros at the same time. I think I'll eventually replace them, but the clicking sound I'm hearing is probably more typical of damage to the beginner-level propeller shafts.

I usually only notice connecting rod bearing damage in the final stages, when you can already hear the knocking from the customers' vehicles about 500 meters away. Therefore, it's difficult for me to interpret the symptoms at an earlier stage.

Let's see what happens. I will report back.

Sure.

I installed the new connecting rod bearings and a new oil pump. I think I got the timing right. The knocking sound during acceleration is gone. Two of the bearings were really worn out. They were probably about to fail completely. Fortunately, the crankshaft looks good on all four cylinders. The connecting rod bearings were still the original ones from the beginning of 1991.

"I measured the oil pressure at the top of the engine: cold, at idle it's 5 bar, and warm, which is about 85 degrees Celsius according to the temperature sensor in my drain plug, it's just under 1 bar. I think that's okay. All the major lubrication points are actually covered at the measurement location. Before, with the damaged bearings and the old pump, it was 0.5 bar lower when cold. I didn't measure it when warm."

Attached is a picture of the connecting rod bearings. I think they were really worn.

Overall, the engine is running and performing well. The only issue is a knocking sound that doesn't synchronize with the engine's rhythm. This knocking seems to be independent of the cold start accelerator, so it shouldn't be related to the fuel injection timing.

If I were to disconnect the injectors individually, I might think it's coming from one specific injector. You can barely hear it in the engine compartment, but you can hear it more clearly behind the car. It's hard to say for sure on my own.

But after I had been there with the engine running and made a bit of a mess on the fuel injection lines, I cleaned the area with brake cleaner.

"At that point, I noticed it smelled like burnt brake cleaner. Shortly after, the idle speed increased slightly, by about 50 RPM. After running for 2-3 minutes, it then dropped back down to around 950 RPM, which is what I had set it to. I then tried to provoke it. I sprayed the entire intake system, including the air intake path and the crankcase ventilation system."

"There's nothing missing here. It doesn't change anything. However, if I spray near the fuel injection pump, specifically from the radiator area, the engine speed increases slightly. If I spray between the injectors on cylinders 1 and 2 and the fuel injection pump, it goes up to 1100 RPM. But the engine isn't misfiring like it usually does when using brake cleaner. It just smells like burnt brake cleaner."

Okay, I understand that you're talking about vacuum leaks. It makes sense to check for those. But not at the fuel injection pump. Just to be sure, I blocked off the ventilation from the LDA (Lambda sensor) and specifically sprayed some cleaner into the hose connected to the LDA. When I did that, the engine speed changed very slightly. Has anyone else experienced something like this?