1.6 TD läuft nicht richtig Einspritzpumpe einstellen | Posts 32+

Okay.

Over the past few days, I've been spending less time working on the engine and more time focusing on the suspension and the rust on the undercarriage. So, everything is now fresh and verschandeln inside, the height is adjusted correctly, and the brake lines as well as the brakes themselves have been reinstalled.

I took the injectors out again and adjusted them to 155 bar. Then I set the injection timing to 0.95mm before top dead center. With that adjustment, the engine started. I still have a long way to go.

Because everything is back together at the bottom, the tank is also back in place. Accordingly, I then reattached the engine to the tank and bled it. After that, it started up again quite quickly.

Then it was actually running smoothly. It idled roughly, produced a little smoke, and started with a bit of throttle or choke.

The throttle lever is set one notch past the "full" mark, and the fuel mixture screw is about one turn out.

Then I drove it. It went pretty well. There was gray smoke until the turbo engaged, then it turned black. The performance is so-so (but I can't really judge it). I currently drive a diesel car with 217 horsepower.

The turbocharger kicks in noticeably, but not until around 3000 RPM. Is that normal?

Once I was back, I turned it off. Now it has been standing for about 4 hours, and I started it before recording the video.

With the cold start accelerator engaged, it sputtered for 12 seconds, then revved up to 2000 RPM and stalled. During this process, a large, dark gray cloud of smoke emerged from the exhaust (approximately 5 seconds of preheating time).

On the next start, I gave it a little more gas. It arrived after about 7 seconds and then ran at approximately 1300 or 1400 revolutions per minute, which is the speed it reaches with the cold start accelerator.

The video also shows the engine starting again and the smoke appearing when the accelerator is pressed.

This morning, when I started the car, it wasn't knocking. However, it's now knocking quite loudly. I'll have to adjust the start date for the funding.

I just don't understand why he suddenly started biting his nails, especially since he hadn't done that before. Perhaps the pump just needs some time to "break in" again, so it can remember that it's an injection pump.

By the way, the video would be 1 minute long. It only shows up to about half of it for me.

Okay, my Caddy now starts up relatively reliably. He still tends to mumble a bit, but he's definitely much clearer than he was at the beginning.

I've adjusted the start date of the support program to be a bit later today. Practically from 0.95 to 0.90.
The gas lever is misaligned by one position from the factory setting. And the set screw is still about one rotation away from the sealing plug on the outside.

As a result, the hammering has improved somewhat. He still does it in warm weather, but it used to only happen in warm weather.

The only thing that worries me is the constant gray smoke. It's relatively small when idling, but it's definitely noticeable. He doesn't stop smoking, even when he's underwater.

Once the engine is warm, it seems the idle speed is no longer quite right. At the very least, it drops off quite sharply there when it experiences fluctuations in engine speed.

I believe that now it's just a matter of fine-tuning the pump.

"Could you please clarify how the pump and my issues with the centrifugal governor shaft are related? It needs to be properly aligned. I mean, the measurement was 7.65mm to the housing." That's how I set them up, at least.

If that one doesn't fit, then fundamentally, nothing else will fit either, or am I mistaken?

Here's a video showing the smoking and starting issues as they currently are. However, in the video, the engine was already warm. That's when the idle problems started again. When the engine is cold, the idle is fine. I also think it's still misfiring. And the significant drop in RPM after each gas surge is also concerning to me.

Thank you in advance, and best regards from my slightly desperate self.

I've found my problem, or at least one of the problems.

I, myself, assembled the pump incorrectly, and in doing so, I also introduced another error. The internal impeller was rotated 180 degrees. I noticed it because the engine speed, which should change with the start of the pumping, remained practically unchanged.

The throttle lever is set one tooth higher, giving more gas. When I adjust the idle screw, I can't get the RPMs below 1200. At that point, the engine starts to stumble and run unevenly. The same applies to the set screw.

Could the problem still be related to a pending LDA (Linear Discriminant Analysis) process? That was the only part of the pump that I didn't open.

After turning the impeller, I roughly installed the pump regarding the start of the pumping process, just so I could get started that evening because I didn't have any more time. I didn't properly connect two of the fuel injection lines. It started up on two cylinders after about 15 seconds of cranking without pre-glow, and it was quite rough.

I then disconnected all the wires and started the car. He was producing a lot of white smoke, had a high idle speed, and significant fluctuations in engine RPM.

The next day, which was yesterday, I first adjusted the starting point of the focusing process. My rough estimate, based on a visual check, was that the focus was off by more than 0.4mm before reaching the optimal point. I've now set it to 0.9.

After the initial start-up, it almost immediately started running, and after a few seconds, it reached a stable speed of 1200 RPM.
I then started it up and went for a drive. After the warm-up, the engine speed was already at 1600 RPM.

Now I can't get it to run below 1200 RPM, because that's when it starts to buck. It runs smoke-free when idling. Occasionally, there are brief interruptions, followed by a short period of graying (I think that's probably just air in the pump).

Okay, here's the translation:

"I'm attaching another picture of the smoke coming from the exhaust under load. It's around 2500 RPM in second gear." Okay.

You set the remaining amount too high. There's that screw that affects the centrifugal regulator.

Do you mean the set screw at the back of the pump? If I turn it out further, it runs unevenly.

Or are you referring to the part at the front where the centrifugal regulator is located? It is set to 7.65mm.

Please take some clear photos showing the two screws, so I can identify which ones you're referring to.
hg
Herbert.

Okay, I've messed around with it some more.

The throttle lever is set to the factory marking, and the corresponding screw has been adjusted back as well.

He was running well with ksb before, but the setting was much too high.
Without it, he started making a sputtering noise and emitting white smoke.

So, I've adjusted the timing advance while the engine was running to an earlier point until it ran smoothly. It idles without the KSB (knock sensor breaker), starts well, and doesn't produce excessive smoke. I'm not in any danger yet.

Theoretically, the timing of the fuel injection is quite early now. It was previously set at 0.9mm, and I've rotated the pump approximately 2mm towards the motor. Attached is a video of the run, showing the dead man switch on the gas lever and the air bubbles in the intake.
Okay, I understand. Please provide the German text and the images of the screws you want me to reference. I will then provide the English translation. Located at the front of the pump.

Hi,
I meant the set screw in the last picture.
The influence of the impeller on the centrifugal regulator still needs to be investigated.
Starting at 0.9 mm of valve lift at TDC is sufficient.
hg
Herbert.

Okay, that sounds right. Yes, I used that to adjust the idle. I just went for a drive, and it's running well. The only annoying thing is the dead spot in the accelerator pedal, because I can only rev the engine up to 3000 RPM while driving.

I'm going to adjust the gas lever one more notch and see what happens in terms of idle speed and starting. But I think I've solved the problem, and hopefully I can finally take the car to the TÜV (German technical inspection) next week.

Otherwise, I think it's mostly finished.

What I meant is the screw that you refer to as a quantity screw. Bosch calls it the "full load adjustment screw." Others call it a flow control screw.
The wave on the centrifugal governor assists in load-dependent fuel delivery initiation (fuel flow) through drilled holes. It must be positioned at the correct depth.
Okay, I will translate the text. Please provide the text you want me to translate from German to English.
Insufficient depth only affects the low-fuel bell. If it's screwed in too deeply, it presses on the control sleeve and/or the centrifugally-operated weights, disrupting the regulation. If you don't notice this, you're likely compensating with the fuel flow screw and the low-load adjustment screw. Where did you get the value of 7.65 mm from?
hg
Herbert.

Hi Herbert,

I got the 7.65 mm measurement from the internet. In a video, someone who completely disassembled and reassembled the pump measured the 7.65 mm and readjusted it, and the 7.65 mm measurement was also mentioned elsewhere. For me, the 7.65 is still in the same position as it was before (visually).

I would generally leave the pump as it is for now until I've had a chance to drive it. The starting, smoking, and throttle response are actually quite good. Perhaps there's still a lot more to say.

Here's another video showing how it starts and runs after being idle for about 2 hours since the last engine start (when it ran for 15 minutes). Now, it also includes a glow plug relay and no longer requires manual bridging.

Then I would re-measure the timing and replace the timing belt, because it's likely to be at least as old as the 10 years the car has been in service.

After that, be sure to set the start date for the promotion back to what it is now.
Now, the timing isn't quite 100% accurate either, because I adjusted the camshaft using a marking I made myself on the pulley, without removing the pulley itself, so I wouldn't have to take the valve cover off 800 times.

And when the turbo finally starts working, I need to think again about the air ducting for the intercooler. Unfortunately, the battery cover, which acts as a guide, is missing. Also, my battery is quite tall and blocks a lot of the actual surface area that's supposed to be cooled by the air. A hood vent would be one possibility, but it unfortunately ruins the aesthetics. Therefore, absolutely no option.

Okay, I have another topic to discuss regarding the engine.

After I had warmed up the car, it started making a clicking noise, roughly around the time the water temperature gauge reached its operating temperature. I turned off the ignition while driving, but kept the gear engaged, and the clicking noise persists. So, no need to adjust the fuel injectors.

I obviously can't verify the mileage of the engine. It could have 200,000 km, but it could also have 600,000 km.

I definitely removed the valve cover and the oil pan.

They're both leaky anyway.

"There are no shavings in the oil. It's perfectly black diesel oil." But the oil smelled strongly of diesel (probably due to my issues with the fuel injectors).

The connecting rod bearings have a little bit of play sideways, but none up and down. I opened up the first cylinder. The connecting rod bearing doesn't look particularly good or bad to me. There's no copper color visible, but there are already two layers.

"I also noticed when looking at the valve timing mechanism that all the hydraulic components are copper-colored, and I can turn the first one (which is responsible for valve timing and is set to top dead center) without any resistance." Does the lifter have complete freedom of movement, and is the camshaft not pressing on it?

I mean, I know that the hydro turbines rotate during operation. I would have expected it to be related to the camshaft.

Here are two photos for reference. I could use some advice on this. I'm thinking about just exchanging both.

Hi!
From what I can see in the pictures, everything doesn't look good.

The KW shock absorber housings should be available individually.
You can change them.

I know that it's actually a bit of a mess.
I also know that it can potentially last for 50,000 km.

Once that's done, you'll at least have proper oil pressure again.
The hydrants also look bad.
You can also change them.


I'm not sure about the camshaft; it often looks worse in photos than it actually is.

What is still possible:
I once had a similar engine, but in a T2 van.
The sliding bearing shells of the intermediate shaft have dissolved.
Something went wrong with the shipping.
I therefore still have one sentence left.
You shouldn't do that now, so I can get rid of the remaining parts.
Can you remember that for next time, in case you encounter a similar problem?

To change them,
However, the entire engine would need to be removed.

You can do everything else once the engine is installed.

Wow, awesome!
I feel like I'm 30 years younger when I read something like that and see pictures like that .

Yes, I've now ordered the complete package.

I'm going to check the oil pressure for him now, using the old pump and with the engine idling.

Then, new connecting rod bearings and a new oil pump will be installed.

I also ordered the hydros at the same time. I think I'll eventually replace them. The clicking sound I'm hearing is probably typical of beginner-level propeller shaft bearing damage.

I usually only notice connecting rod bearing damage in the final stages, when you can already hear the knocking from the customers' cars 500 meters away. "Accordingly, it's difficult for me to interpret."

Let's see what happens. I will report.

Sure.

I installed the new connecting rod bearings and a new oil pump. I think I got the timing right. The knocking sound during acceleration is gone. Two of the bearings were really bad. I'd say they were about to fail completely. Thankfully, the crankshaft looks good on all four cylinders. The connecting rod bearings were still the original ones from the beginning of 1991.

I measured the oil pressure at the top of the engine, cold and at idle, to be 5 bar. When warm, at approximately 85 degrees Celsius according to the temperature sensor in my drain plug, it was just under 1 bar. I find that acceptable. All the major lubrication points are actually covered at the measurement location. Previously, with the damaged bearings and the old pump, the readings were 0.5 bar lower when cold. I didn't measure the temperature.

Attached is a picture of the connecting rod bearings. I think it was really close.

Overall, the engine runs and the vehicle performs very well. The only issue is a persistent knocking sound that doesn't synchronize with the engine's rhythm. The knocking should be independent of the cold start accelerator, so it shouldn't be related to the fuel injection start.

If I could disconnect the injectors individually, I might think it's the first option. You can barely hear it in the engine compartment, but you can hear it behind the Caddy. It's hard to say alone.

But after I was there with the engine running and had made a bit of a mess with the fuel lines, I cleaned the area with brake cleaner.

"That's when I noticed it smelled like burnt brake cleaner. Shortly after, the idle speed increased slightly, by about 50 RPM. After running for 2-3 minutes, it then dropped back down to the approximately 950 RPM that I had set. I then tried to reproduce it." I sprayed the entire intake manifold, the air intake, and the crankcase ventilation system.

"There's nothing missing. It doesn't change anything. However, if I spray directly in front of the fuel injection pump, near the radiator, the engine speed increases slightly. If I spray between the injectors on cylinders 1 and 2 and the fuel injection pump, it increases to 1100 RPM. However, the engine doesn't misfire like it usually does when using brake cleaner." It just smells like brake cleaner that has been burned.

Okay, I understand that you're talking about vacuum leaks. It makes sense that you're looking for a vacuum leak, but not at the fuel injection pump. Just to be sure, I then blocked the vacuum line from the LDA (Low-Pressure Accumulator) and specifically sprayed the hose connected to the LDA. When I sprayed it, the engine speed changed very slightly. Has anyone ever experienced something like this before?