30c-Tuningidee für PD-Motoren | Posts 32+

ulf wrote:

For example, is a power box intelligent enough to always compensate for the difference in resistance, depending on the fuel temperature, so that the increase remains constant? bloeckler wrote: Hi, One can also get it for a lower price than a (typical) Powerbox: The Water-Giving NTC 06A 919 501 constantly deceives the engine computer with a ~20°C too high diesel temperature, and, as far as I know, costs less than 20?. It can be easily replaced, as it actually has the same housing dimensions as the diesel injector insert I will investigate the effects soon with the DZR.

Can the renovation be carried out without mess, or are there tips to prevent this? Does it require a separate (different) gasket, or is it already included with the sender?

bloeckler wrote:

Can the renovation be carried out without mess, or are there tips on how to prevent it? Does one need a separate (different) gasket, or is it already included with the sender?

Hi,

Unplug + Release the clip, then disconnect the electrical connection. Rotate and pull out.
"A few spoonfuls of diesel leak out - > place a small glass or similar underneath."

The sealing is achieved through an O-ring in the housing, which can be reused.
If you lightly grease the insert being installed on the O-ring's mounting surface, it will be easier to insert.

Then, re-install the retaining clip, plug it in, and you're done.

ulf wrote:

For example, is a power box intelligent enough to always compensate for the difference in resistance, depending on the fuel temperature, so that the increase remains constant? bloeckler wrote: The Water Dispenser - NTC 06A 919 501

Is this water pump specifically for the 96kW? Today I was at VW and they only had the 059 919 501A (Max 140) for my ATD here. However, compared to my existing water pump on the diesel temperature sensor, this one has 4 instead of 2 contacts. Also, the plug doesn't fit either, as it's now too narrow.

EDIT: Your number matches the AVU. I've had him delivered and will install him this afternoon.

EDIT2: I installed it - it was indeed very easy

Another question:

My timing belt was replaced without special tools (as I was not a customer of an authorized dealer and was prioritizing cost savings). Now I would like to have the position mechanically checked at a VAG workshop and, for safety (only one year dealer warranty), also have a compression test performed (thereafter).

What is the price for an approximate amount?

So far, I have:

VAG #1: 65 Euro (approximately 55-60 Euro for compression test)
VAG #2: 100 Euro (incl. Compression Test)

EDIT3: Appointment scheduled with VAG #3: both for approximately 90 euros.

bloeckler wrote:

(The Water Dispenser-NTC 06A 919 501 . . . Is this water dispenser specifically designed for the 96kW?

Hi,

no, it was used in several engines in the Polo 9N - and probably in completely different models as well.

Bertil wrote:

150 Ohm is too low for most vehicles with LL (Long Life) intervals. This will immediately trigger the "Service" warning. There should be better 180-200 used. One can clearly see the "scrap factor" of this "tuning method" from the different reactions of the vehicles.

Hi Bertil,

I also don't like using fixed resistors as NTC replacements in everyday operation, even with the known reasons, (which will be discussed again in the 10c technical article).

Regardless, your experience is interesting.
Do you have an idea why the WI monitoring system is reacting so "strangely"?

I previously thought that AI only calculates the "wear" of the oil per trip based on oil temperature and driving profile, and deducts the result from a "credit" that is reset to maximum after each maintenance. . . what does the diesel temperature have to do with it?

I took a test drive on the highway. When the speedometer reached 190, the air would usually escape, so we just continued until the next obstacle and then reached 200.

Assuming that the actual diesel temperature under full load on the highway is 75-80° (as someone mentioned here), then at this temperature, the same amount of diesel should be injected as after cold start, since the range probably extends up to 130° - is that correct?

Consequently, the additional performance can therefore be considered constant.

Nevertheless, I will have my timing belt checked mechanically on Friday, and if it turns out to be correct, I will have a compression test performed. When driving between 1000 and 1400 RPM, especially in 5th gear, there is a nervous vibration that can be felt (since I have had the car), which disappears as the accelerator pedal is pressed further. The previous owner was unable to observe this (before the timing belt replacement).

bloeckler wrote:

Assuming that the actual diesel temperature under full load on the highway is 75-80° (as someone mentioned here), then the same amount of diesel should be injected at this temperature as after a cold start, since the range is likely up to 130° - is that correct? Consequently, the additional performance can therefore be considered constant.

Yes, that's essentially how I see it so far...

ulf wrote:

Hi Bertil, I also don't like using fixed resistors as NTC replacements in everyday operation, even with the known reasons, (which will be discussed again in the 10c technical article).

Full agreement

Quote:

Regardless, your experience is interesting. Do you have an idea why the WI monitoring system is reacting so "strangely"?

No, not exactly.

Quote:

I previously thought that AI only calculates the "wear" of the oil per trip based on oil temperature and driving profile, and deducts the result from a "credit" that is reset to maximum after each maintenance. . . what does the diesel temperature have to do with it?

It is likely that all temperatures (water, oil, and fuel) will be used. I can't be more specific, though, because the Golf doesn't have a predictive display.

My MFA shows a lower consumption under partial load after the swap, but a higher consumption under full load (approximately 0.5 liters in both cases). No later than after the next full tank, clarity will prevail regarding the reality .

bloeckler wrote:

I took a test drive on the highway. When the speedometer reached 190, the air would usually escape, so we just continued until the next obstacle and then reached 200.

Hi,

Tempo 200 instead of 190 under identical conditions requires approximately a 16% increase in performance.

My initial DZR test only showed a 4 - 5% average yield increase.
According to Popometer, the current draw has not significantly changed with speed (similar to VP37 diode tuning) - therefore, I assume a nearly uniform power gain.

Since the DZR test, with some practice, generally appears to be more reproducible than Vmax attempts (-> negligible slopes / gradients), Wind influences ), I suspect, "unfortunately", that your observation significantly overestimates the actual increase.

It would be interesting if you could also post "Before and After" DZR values sometimes...

ulf wrote:

I took a test drive on the highway. bloeckler wrote: When the speedometer reached 190, the air would usually escape, so we just continued until the next obstacle and then reached 200. Hi, Tempo 200 instead of 190 under identical conditions requires approximately a 16% increase in performance. My initial DZR test only showed a 4 - 5% average yield increase. According to Popometer, the current draw has not significantly changed with speed (similar to VP37 diode tuning) - therefore, I assume a nearly uniform power gain. Since the DZR test, with some practice, generally appears to be more reproducible than Vmax attempts (-> negligible slopes / gradients), Wind influences ), I suspect, "unfortunately", that your observation significantly overestimates the actual increase. It would be interesting if you could also post "Before and After" DZR values. . .

Possible that the conditions were favorable

DZR, I'm testing tomorrow. Could you please provide me with some comparison values that you calculated in the Ibiza forum?

My car:
Translation: 1 3,158
Gangstufe III. 1,304

Tires: 185/60 R14 82H

Weight recorded: 1307 KG, Driver 78KG
Weight of Elegance: 1255 - 1345 (including 75KG driver). Do not have any extras besides the standard equipment.

Previously, with a tank 3/4 full, the average time was around 7 seconds / approximately 5-8°C.


What is the DZR time of your 9N?

bloeckler wrote:

Weight recorded: 1307 KG, Driver 78KG Weight of Elegance: 1255 - 1345 (including 75KG driver). Do not have any extras besides the standard equipment.

Then your 1307 kg will also include the driver.

Quote:

So far, with a tank about 3/4 full, the acceleration from 0 to 60 mph is approximately 7 seconds, at temperatures around 5-8°C.

For 1300 kg (due to a 3/4 full tank), the calculation already results in approximately 112 hp / 268 Nm.

Quote:

What is the DZR time for your 9N?

With the engine properly tuned, fully fueled with some tools, etc. (-> calculated weight ~1250 kg), approximately 6.4 - 6.5 seconds.

I checked my values today, and they were slightly elevated, but consistently below 7. (6.92/6.84/6.95/6.87). Temperature ranged from 11 to 13°.

I also read your technical article on adjusting valve timing and PDEs twice. I have an appointment on Friday at the workshop to have these points checked – so that I can get precise information. By the way, very clearly written!

When I scheduled the appointment, I made sure that the correct placement of the dental implant would be checked – shouldn't this be included in the content of the article?

My two observation points suggest that there was fraud involved in the ZR (presumably, a specific type of vehicle) exchange (possibly because there was no authorized workshop and no knowledge of PDs (presumably, a specific type of documentation or procedure)).

#1: Light to moderate vibration at constant speed in 5th gear. Speed and between 1000 and 1400 RPM

#2: Enjoyable engine speed above 3500 RPM and failure to reach the specified speed - accompanied by a noticeable power loss starting at 3750 RPM.

The latter, however, has been somewhat mitigated by the replacement of the sensor.

bloeckler wrote:

My values were slightly elevated today, but remained consistently below 7. (6.92/6.84/6.95/6.87). Temperature ranged from 11 to 13°.

So, im Durchschnitt 6,90 Sekunden.
Instead of 7 seconds, this corresponds to an increase of approximately 2 horsepower - which, in my opinion, is still a bit too little.

Quote:

When I scheduled the appointment, I made sure that the correct placement of the dental implant would be checked - shouldn't this be included in the content of the article?

In conclusion, yes - but if the workshop follows the official instructions, they will likely have to do several times the amount of work:
To initiate the crankshaft stop, for example, you need to remove the crankshaft pulley and the lower crankshaft protection shield.

This makes reading the OT marking not only much easier, but also much more accurate due to the multiple radius of the KW pulley.
I'm starting to wonder if the 3° error setting in my engine, which is factory-set, might actually be due to carelessness, rather than the normal imprecision of the crankshaft stop method.

Quote:

My two observation points suggest that there was fraud involved in the ZR (presumably, a vehicle or part) replacement (possibly, because there was no authorized workshop and no knowledge of PDs (presumably, parts or documentation)). #1: Light to moderate vibration at constant speed in 5th gear. Speed between 1000 and 1400 RPM

I don't think it's likely to be caused by a ZR, but we'll see.

Quote:

#2: Smooth running at speeds above 3500 RPM, but not reaching the specified speed – accompanied by a noticeable power drop starting at 3750 RPM.

That pretty much matches my experiences. However, I had far from a 12% performance surplus according to the DZR.

Quote:

However, this has been somewhat mitigated by the replacement of the sensor.

What is not too surprising

ulf wrote:

To initiate the crankshaft stop, for example, you need to remove the crankshaft pulley and the lower crankshaft protection shield. "Furthermore, reading the OT marking is not only much easier, but also much more accurate due to the multiple radius of the KW pulley."

Well, I'm curious to see - the estimated working time was 30 to 45 minutes. I would like to be confirmed beforehand, just to be sure...

How long does it take to set up the PDEs, including? Valve cover down and on?

bloeckler wrote:

How long does it take to set up the PDEs, including? Valve cover down and on?

If nothing is stuck and you're not feeling unwell, I'd say around 30 minutes.
However, performing work on a warm engine is not particularly pleasant -> Risk of fire due to flammable vapors


@all:
I have added the 10c-specific article with the PD variant.
If you notice any errors or have more information, please send a private message (PN) or post here.

In my current attempt to test the FET circuit in parallel with the NTC sensor, I'm currently stuck in a dead end: the 2 FETs are behaving completely differently than I expected (they are still conducting despite a "GS-gate voltage" of approximately 7 volts).
Maybe I completely misunderstood the datasheet for the BF 245, and my idea might not even work.