Crankshaft bolt for TDI engines

... is it a 19-inch, 12-spoke wheel?

I'm going to buy the right nut now, but all I have is information that you can also remove it with a ring wrench.

Is it true that it's a size 19?

m

I don't know the exact size, but it has the same shape as a ring spanner.

OK, thank you.

Then it should be a size 19.

Okay, I'm off to grab some lunch.

"Thank you."
Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

Okay, purchase complete.

Here is a wanted poster photo:

Hello,
That was fast.
Best regards,
Günther.

And then something like that high-quality stuff, it looks a lot like Gedore. Then nothing can possibly go wrong!

Yep, it's Gedore.

When it comes to tools, I don't compromise.

After a colleague stripped all four of the turbo manifold bolts on the bus last weekend using my Gedore wrench, I'm completely convinced that good tools are essential.

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

dieselmartin wrote:

Bei Werkzeug bei ich kompromisslos.

Hello Martin,

Did you also buy the Matra caliper adapter? If so, you should replace those two screws (they're only grade 8. with brake caliper bolts (grade 12.9). The ones on mine bent when I tried to open them. A good lever is also necessary. You won't get far with a 1/2" ratchet or wrench. I use a 3/4" Hazet breaker bar with an extension.

Hello,

I'd like to revisit that.

Heute hab ich an einem ANY Motor (3 Zylinder, 1.2PD TDI) versucht, die KW-Schraube zu öffnen. Obwohl der Motor frei hing und ich gut überall rankam, ist mir das nicht gelungen. Den Gegenhalter hab ich mit dem KW-Riemenrad verschraubt, damit ich nicht abrutsche. Außerdem wird dadurch auch gleich der KW-Stopp noch fixiert. Geduldiges Draufhalten mit dem Elektroschlagschrauber hat nichts gebracht. Zweiter Versuch war das Konstrukt im Bild. Der aufgesteckte Hebel war sicher nicht zu kurz. Allerdings hab ich ohne Helfer gearbeitet. Es hat sich trotzdem nichts getan. Are there any other helpful tips available?

This was supposed to be a preparatory exercise, because I want to proactively replace the oil pump chain in the A2 – it sometimes causes problems with these engines. However, I don't think this operation on the engine installed in the vehicle is particularly promising at the moment :-/.

Bye.
peace

Hi!

Okay, a freely hanging motor is already bad; it needs to be properly secured. When I see the picture and imagine that alone, it's probably not going to work.

Position the counterweight, if possible, about a quarter turn before the lever, so that it rests on top.
Possibly someone else will need to hold the engine in place.

Sure, here's the translation:

"Just one more question about that:"
Normally, or rather, commonly, this is done in workshops using a 3/4-inch pneumatic impact wrench. With such a tool, you can easily loosen those screws.
Aber, ist das techn. Okay?
I always have a slightly uneasy feeling about it, wondering if I might be damaging something in the engine with those impacts.

Evening.
The force is generated at the screwdriver due to the impacts.
Simply put, the lever applies a force of 600 N/m, and the tool delivers this force incrementally to the screw in short bursts.
At the end, the same forces act on the component, but they manifest in a different form.

Hi!
Well, not quite.
He uses the lever to push against the counter-holder.

Using a screwdriver, you're essentially hitting against the weight of the crank mechanism.
Normally, this is even done without any objections.

Steffen G wrote:

A free-hanging engine is already a bad thing.

So, it would also be smart to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt while the engine mount is still in place and the timing belt is still on, when working on the engine in a car. This would have the advantage that you wouldn't have to worry about the crankshaft stop somehow coming loose, and accidentally turning the crankshaft through without the timing belt.
Now, I went shopping and got a better-fitting socket wrench and a 3/4" ratchet with the appropriate socket. If that doesn't help, I will acquire a 3/4" impact wrench . Unfortunately, I won't be able to get back into the garage for another two weeks.

Bye.
peace

Hello,

"At the time, I used the Matra tool (VW 3099). It self-locks and can therefore also be used when the timing belt has been removed."

I was afraid that something might break in that part; I'm not a fan of applying concentrated force to die-cast aluminum parts.