Schmieröl im Diesel | Posts 32+

Regarding oil additives, I have something very curious to add: At 93,000 km, my fuel injector actuator piston started to remain in a rather early position (-> search for 'sporadisch starkes Nageln'), including. Emergency mode.

Since I didn't want to deal with a 'pump', I 'repaired' the error temporarily by adding a spacer in front of the SBV piston and using a 10ct tuning for the emergency run compensation.

In the summer, I started reducing my vegetable oil reserves, always using a ratio of 1/3 vegetable oil to 2/3 RME (biodiesel). This worked perfectly (although the frying smell was stronger), and eventually, after about 5000 km, the emergency mode suddenly disappeared, and I could permanently disable the 10ct tuning (which I had previously only enabled on highways). Since then, the engine has sounded incredibly smooth . As long as there are sub-zero temperatures, I initially use pure RME, because vegetable oil becomes too thick in those conditions. In the spring, the trees will be re-planted

Meanwhile, approximately 15,000 km have passed, and the SBV pivot has never failed . The adjustment that increases the SBV spring preload and slightly shifts the initial engagement towards the later position is still possible. But I don't really run at high speeds anyway, so it's not a problem, and there was no more emergency shutdown either.

Does that also seem like a strange causality to you? (even though RME and Pölgegner are now standing up for themselves )

Greetings
Holger

Hi, tinkerers,

The issue with the oil addition is an old trick used by farmers. They often also mix oil into their diesel fuel, as this makes their tractors pull better.
I also strongly suspect that this is related to the reduced oil leakage. These were rated up to 30% here in another place.
But 5? for a liter of 2T oil, I wouldn't spend that much. I'd rather go to the hardware store and get a whole canister full of 15W40 for 5? In the cheap stuff, there should be very few additives that form ash.
I believe that the reduced fuel consumption reported here is primarily psychological in nature. It should be the case that the calorific value of oil is significantly higher than that of gasoline. Or should the losses due to leaking oil be so significant that there is simply more power left over?

Greetings

Eike

@Eike: I would stick with the 15W40 in your situation. 2-stroke oil burns much less than your 15W-40.

Greetings
Micha

Now, farmers do this with old iron because it specifically requires it. In the legendary operating manual of our Mercedes L480 (I don't know, but 40 is the minimum), it states that the addition of lubricating oil (a more precise definition is not provided) should be done every 5th time. Fuel up.

What one should do with modern cars now is a matter of personal choice, however, on the exhaust side, there are no positive results

Hi!

I believe that the reduced fuel consumption reported here is primarily psychological in nature. It should be the case that the calorific value of oil is significantly higher. Or should the losses due to leaking oil be so significant that there is simply more power left over?

It's understandable that the efficiency of the ESP increases as the amount of leakage decreases. The kneaded leak oil is heated, so liquid friction heat -> waste heat.

Less oil leakage -> less heat loss

less leakage -> high-pressure piston must make a smaller stroke for the same amount of injection -> lower drive power of the ESP (which can be in the kW range)

Greetings