Longlife III | Posts 48+

Hi,

What I forgot to mention: The HTHS value of 3.58 is not bad. The AMG factory fill has an HTHS of 3.6. Top-quality oils typically have HTHS values of 4.0 or 4.2. This further clarifies how to interpret the values 3.0 and 3.6.

Regards,
Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"Micha"

Mephisto wrote:

How are your MoS2 particles supposed to reach the places where you want them to be during a cold start? When you turn off the engine, they flow back into the oil pan with the oil. When you start the engine, they are only transported through the engine again with the oil. By the time they could potentially work (which they don't), engine oil is already there.

After the machine is stopped, not all of the oil flows back into the reservoir; some of it remains, for example, in the main spindle bearings.

If this substance contains MoS2, the oil residue during the dry-running phase after a cold start might provide better lubrication than oil without MoS2 (-> former LM advertising slogan: MoS2 stops wear).

@Ulf:

Please contribute something to LL³ or start your own MOS2 thread. You're going off-topic here. Thank you!

Hi,

Quote:

...the oil residue in the pressure-free phase after a cold start, in my opinion, lubricates better than oil without MoS2...

If there's already some oil residue there, then that's good. So, what's the point of adding MoS2 then? To make life difficult for oil?

That reminds me of the discussion about model building: castor oil versus synthetic oil. What's so great about castor oil that it carbonizes and the resulting carbon provides better lubrication than if the engine is completely dry? "In that case, it's better to use a synthetic lubricant: it lubricates better than castor oil, and where castor oil has already carbonized, a fully synthetic lubricant still works perfectly."

Regards,
Micha[/quote]

Julian wrote:

Please, either contribute something to LL³ or start your own MOS2 thread. You're being more off-topic here. Thank you!

IMO is not worth it anymore; my questions have been answered.

And I'm not brave enough to copy or cut the MoS2 parts into a separate thread (I'm not very familiar with the mod panels ), because I might break the entire thread afterwards.

*dust off*

I recently changed my oil for the second time, at 69,000 km, to Mobil 1 5W-30 ESP.

The oil consumption remains low (2 liters over 37,000 km), but I've noticed the idle speed is quite low. The engine sounds a bit less 'throaty,' although this is only a slight difference and is more of a subjective observation. As someone who rides frequently, you tend to notice such a change.

I am therefore unable to confirm Bertil's experiences.

Now I am waiting for the Wearcheck oil analysis of the second run using BP Visco 7000 0W-30 LL².

Hello Julian,

Thank you for sharing your experience.

Please let me know the results of the oil analysis.

I'm also wondering whether I should switch to LL3 for the next oil change or continue using LL2.

I have noticed that in my Golf V 2.0 TDI, when I drive very fast on the highway, I need approximately 0.5 liters of Castrol SLX LL2 oil for every 4000 km .

When I drive gently, I have almost no measurable oil consumption .

Okay...

The results are in, and they look quite good. It is also clear that the break-in phase is complete, and the piston rings are no longer producing any wear.
The silicon content has also been significantly reduced, which I attribute to the 15,000 km replacement intervals of the engine air filter.

Hi.

I brought this up again.

I'm also due for an oil change soon, and I'm wondering which oil to use: 5-30W or the old 0-30W.

My main concern is the durability of the engine and its related components. The price is not a major factor for me. The car simply needs to last for at least 6 years or 240,000 km. No modifications! The engine (ASZ in the Octavia I L&K Combi, manufactured in 2004) already produces significantly more power than its rated output, with measured figures reaching 147 horsepower.
Currently, I'm using Liqui Moly 0-30 W oil, which meets the corresponding VW specifications. Oil consumption is approximately 1 liter per 15,000 kilometers, with 80% highway driving.

Is the new one better, or is it just more expensive/cheaper, or does it simply not matter which oil you use? Is the only difference the compatibility with a diesel particulate filter? - which wouldn't even fit in my car anyway?

Questions upon questions?

Best regards, Limpi.

Hi, has anyone tried the new 'Castrol LL04' (BMW Longlife-04) oil yet?

It is a 0W-30 oil and also complies with the low SAPS technology.
(low levels of sulfate ash, sulfur, etc.), it is therefore suitable for diesel vehicles with particulate filters. The HTHS value of this oil is specified as 3.5 mPas.
It should therefore be better than VW's Longlife II and comparable to Longlife III.
A question regarding why, according to the data sheet, this 0W oil has a similar viscosity at +40°C compared to the 5W oil (Longlife III). The 0W should be more fluid!

Data sheet:
http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_internet/castrol/castrol_switzerland/STAGING/local_assets/downloads/s/slx_longlife04.pdf

Regards,
Christian

If I understand your question correctly...

Quote:

A question regarding why, according to the data sheet, this 0W oil has a similar viscosity at +40°C compared to the 5W oil (Longlife III). The 0W should be more liquid!

Is the Longlife 3 also a 5W30 oil?

The first number (0W or 5W) refers to the viscosity at temperatures around -18°C.
The last number (xW30) refers to temperatures of approximately 98°C.

Therefore, both oils have the same or a similar viscosity at higher temperatures. However, I can't say exactly how much the difference is at 40°C.