Wie oft glüht Ihr bei Kälte (?? - 5°C) vor? - PD, CR und VEP | Posts 80+

dieselmartin wrote:

.. so a full 70 Ah battery would then be empty after 42 minutes

Probably not, because with approximately 1 kW of power dissipation in the resistor, its built-in "lighting" function will quickly prevent any further testing . The testing process, like the startup, takes place within seconds.

its built-in 'illumination function' ).


Here's a translation of the German text:

'For small batteries, a simple test you can do is to use a 1.5mm steel wire. If the wire burns through, the battery is likely dead. If it glows brightly immediately, the battery is still usable. If it only slowly heats up, it's nearing the end of its life.'


with a 120Ah tractor battery, that's not going to work . the wire will still melt even at 10.2 volts .


Oh, so... of course, don't do the test, because the stress can generate hydrogen, and the sparks that draw it to the battery terminals will inevitably create... well, something like a nuclear bomb... blah blah blah... at your own risk.

edit:

'@dieselmartin wow, is that really how well a TDI can start at -6°C? (referring to the BMR). Our BMN engine is really struggling and no one knows why... Sometimes it takes a lot of cranking to start, and other times it fires up on the first try but runs 'rough' for the first few seconds.'

After 4 days of standing still, I finally got to start my AXR today in -8°C temperatures.
Woman driving again. It started almost explosively (after a single pre-glow).
as if there's nothing more wonderful.
The noise level is extremely low, and the operation is perfectly smooth - impressive.

My AFN engine is always incredibly reliable, even though the glow plugs...
With over 13 years of experience, it probably won't be of much help anymore. However, he needs an idea.
longer than the PD. This is the case at every temperature.

Greetings, Klaus.

Hi,

I wanted to show you my broken GK fuse.

She had a small hair loss, but she looked perfectly fine. However, the resistance was almost 1 megaohm.
I thought the fuse would blow, not break like this where you can't even see the damage.

Now it starts even better, and the white-blue smoke after starting has also disappeared .

Regards,
A.
P.S. The survey is actually missing a checkbox: "My car doesn't overheat, but it still starts"

"With my PD (likely referring to a specific device or process), I still do it the way my Golf I GTD (a type of diesel car) taught me: "

• Ignition on, the glow begins.
  
• Fasten your seatbelt.
  
• Start the engine.
  

That's all the glow you're getting.

Since my current car has a persistent afterglow, it doesn't matter that the preheating indicator light turns off much earlier than the seatbelt buckle clicks.

Correct, that's how I do it too! Get in, turn on the "Zündung" (ignition), fasten the seatbelts, and then start the engine. This applies to gasoline engines and also in the summer. It can't possibly do any harm...