Tightening torque for timing belt replacement on PD engines?

Hi.

The instructions for replacing the timing belt are very helpful, but unfortunately, they don't include any torque specifications. Can someone provide me with these details for an ATD (I believe they are the same for all PDs)?
- From the scooter?
- Regarding the two screws of the hydraulic wrench?
- Are you referring to the three screws on the camshaft sprocket?


Here's the translation:

"Also, one more somewhat silly question. From which edge of the tensioner do you measure the clearance to tension the pulley? I'm talking about the externally mounted hydraulic tensioner. At the end where the piston rod of the tensioner presses against the lever of the pulley, there's an offset of about 5-7mm on the edge of the housing." Should the 4mm be measured on the left or right side of this offset?

Best regards from Jan.

Skoda Fabia, 2001, ATD.

Tensioning roller, 20 Nm + 45°.
Hydraulic tensioner, 15 Nm.
Camshaft: 25 Nm.

Thank you very much for the information. I'm going to tackle that today.

/Jan

Another urgent question about the span element.
Could it be that you can't reassemble this after removing the locking mechanism and extending the piston rod?
This applies to both the old and the new versions of the Spanelemt. You only have a few seconds to adjust the clearance, after which the expansion element seems to fill with oil and lock.
Is that normal ?

/Jan

Okay, so if it's extended, I would take it out again, clamp it in a vise, and compress it, then insert the spear-shaped piece. You can also use an 8mm Allen wrench to loosen it when it's already installed, but I wouldn't recommend it. I've already had the hexagonal socket on the pulley tear once.

To measure the gap, you need either a suitable key or a grooved retaining ring. First, turn the tensioner to the left to release the locking plate, and then slowly turn it to the right until a 4+1mm drill bit can fit inside.