ZR Seal Replacement: Part Number Issues

Hello everyone!

I was planning to replace the rear differential on my A3 this week. Unfortunately, I still have a rather outdated version of AKTE (from 2003), which means that the newer repair kits are not included in its database.
I then called the dealer and ordered a corresponding repair kit, as well as some additional small parts (water pump, expansion bolts for the front wheel, expansion bolts for the engine mount, etc.).
Upon opening the repair kit, I noticed that it contained a completely different timing belt with part number 038 109 119 M (previously 038 109 119 D).
In addition, the idler pulley has a part number of 038 109 244 M, which did not exist in the old AKTE system (previously it was 038 109 244 H). Also, the tensioner pulley has been changed from 038 109 243 G to the new part number 038 109 243 N.
Now I'm wondering if all of this is actually correct, or if I might have been sold the wrong repair kit. Who can investigate this?
I don't feel like partially disassembling my engine only to find out that something doesn't fit .

Another piece of information for your research: It is an AGR (base) engine with the engine number 16549.
In this first 038 TDI engine, starting with engine number 44442, an additional small idler pulley was introduced on the timing chain side, between the crankshaft sprocket and the tensioner (part number 038 109 244 E). Otherwise, I could not identify any other differences in the timing drive.
Therefore, I ordered the timing chain repair kit for the AGR engine with engine number >44442 in order to install the additional idler pulley.
I expect the retrofit to extend the lifespan of the timing chain, as my replacement interval is currently only 60,000 km, and I hope to achieve an increase to 90,000 km through this adjustment .

Oh, by the way, the part number for the repair kit is 038 198 119 E.

Wäre toll, wenn jemand prüfen könnte, ob die mir verkauften Teile passen/korrekt sind oder nicht. DaSure, here's the translation:

"nke!" translates to "no!" in English.

Regards,
Alex.

P.S. Does anyone know the torque specification for tightening the stud bolt on the (additional) idler pulley (part number 038 109 244 E)?

Hello.

Please send me the vehicle identification number (VIN) and the sales type (a 6-digit number located in the spare tire compartment), and I'll check what information I can find. I have access to data from October.

@chli1976:

Fahrgestellnr. WAUZZZ8LZVA046xxx


Hmm, I couldn't find any 6-digit numbers, just this one here:

8L1 0X4 4955353


Thank you for your support!!!

Please take note of my comments, as I want to retrofit the additional idler pulley, which is only available from engine number 44442 onwards.

Regards,
Alex.

Hello.

I'm getting the following number for sentence 038 198 119D.

The individual parts: Timing belt 038 109 119D.
Tension spring 038 109 243N
Deflection roller 058 109 244 (located at the top, between the camshafts).
(Injection pump rotor)
Pulley 038 109 244 E (small pulley)
Deflection roller 038 109 244 M (large roller).

According to my records, you should already have the small part between NW and ESP.

Have you taken it apart yet?

Please send me your email address and I will send you this page from the spare parts catalog.

Thank you for your efforts .

Quote:

According to my records, you should already have the small role between NW and ESP.

That's clear; it also concerns the small idler roller between the tensioner pulley and the crankshaft, on the non-drum side.

Except for the part number of the timing belt, all the part numbers match.
Could it be that the part number 038 109 119 D has been replaced by 038 109 119 M? Do the belts match in terms of the number of teeth, tooth profile, and belt width?
If so, then I don't see any risk in installing that part, do I?

Regards,
Alex.

I can't say for sure right now whether it's a replacement number.
Please check the Contitech website at www.contitech.de.


The mother (nut) for the role should be tightened to 25 Nm. I don't know about the studs. I would suggest applying some Loctite and tightening it normally.


It might take a little while before you receive something from me.

donalexo wrote:

... Do the belts match in terms of the number of teeth, tooth profile, and belt width? If so, then I don't see any risk in installing that part, do I?

According to the Contitech catalog, there is only one type of belt available (anymore) for the 1.9 PD engine.

Here are the most important timing belt components for a TDI engine.

ZR values.
Motor teeth profile tooth gap width.
1.9L VP TDI 137 LAHR 9,252 25.4mm (with timing chain)
1.9L VP TDI 141 LAHR 9,252 25.4mm (without timing chain wheel)
1.9L PD TDI 120 HP, HTDA 9.252, 30mm.
2.0L PD TDI 141 HTDA 9.525 30mm

... See: https://community.dieselschrauber.org/en/viewtopic.php?t=10210&highlight=zr

Even with the intermediate roller, you won't achieve the 90,000 km service interval. Unfortunately, other mechanical modifications have been made to the engine block. The new AJM tensioner also doesn't fit on the old AJM.
The search function reveals the following:
https://community.dieselschrauber.org/en/viewtopic.php?t=10021&highlight=zr

Hello Bertil,

the AGR is not a PD .
If I remember correctly, the last timing belt for my AHF had the same part number as the one that Alex used.
I'm now doing maintenance intervals of 90,000 km. The belt looked great last time; there was virtually no wear.
Only the leadership role crumbled much earlier, and it would probably have had dire consequences if I hadn't immediately turned off the engine and checked what was happening.

Best regards, Rainer.

[Edit: Too bad, the invoice only says "repair kit," and doesn't list a specific part number for the timing belt.]

Rainer K. wrote:

the AGR is not a PD .

Oh sh... Forgot my glasses.

I had read AJM...

Then the belt and pulley replacement also makes the 90,000 km interval correct. Sorry for my mistake.
The rhyme mass for the VP is also included in the upper report .

P.S. I've changed the post visibility to "Normal."

Uffff, the new ZR is installed .

It was a real pain. I changed the tires in my garage all by myself (in the dark, with just two dim lamps). The vehicle was lifted on two jack stands, so you could barely crawl underneath.
I also built a special device to lift and lower the engine (a picture will follow).

I've now installed the "new" 038 109 119 M ZR. I couldn't find any external differences between it and the 038 109 119 D, except perhaps for the slightly rougher back of the belt.

So far, I have only manually rotated the engine a few times to check the timing of the crankshaft (KW), camshaft (NW), and exhaust gas recirculation system (ESP).
This morning, I will top up the coolant and adjust the pump timing (if necessary).

Regarding that, is there a trick to speed up the process of completely refilling the cooling system (I obviously also replaced the water pump)? It always takes forever for even small amounts from the expansion tank to seep into the engine. Also, I don't feel comfortable having the engine run for an extended period with a lot of air in the cooling circuit.

The engine mount (especially its position) is the most ridiculous design element on the entire assembly .
Man kommt nich einmal richtig an die Spannrolle heran, ohne das Teil zu lösen. That's really stupid.
And the screws between the engine mount and the motor bracket (60 Nm + 90°) are really tight .

Okay, I've abandoned my original plan to retrofit the small idler pulley between the crankshaft and tensioner because my rear timing cover didn't have a corresponding cutout. Perhaps the block also doesn't have any threads there yet. In any case, I definitely didn't want to remove the rear timing cover.

Tomorrow I will report on how the little motor is running with the new belt.

Regards,
Alex.

P.S. Yesterday, I also got a new turbocharger for our Golf. It now has a GT1749V, which gives it quite a bit of boost .

I'm familiar with the issue of the engine mount. It's easier if you unscrew the plastic turbocharger hose; then you can remove the engine mount more easily.

Did you receive my email? If so, please get back to me. I might have something for you.

Hello donalexo!


Speaking of which, is there actually a trick to speed up the filling process when completely refilling the cooling system (I obviously also replaced the water pump)? It always takes forever for even small amounts from the expansion tank to seep into the engine. Also, I don't feel comfortable having the engine run for an extended period with a lot of air in the cooling circuit.

At work, we have a great device from Berner (which is probably available from other manufacturers too) that uses a vacuum to remove the coolant from the system. Then, you just drain the old coolant into a bucket and let the new coolant flow in. That's the deluxe version...

You can make it easier to fill your car by using a funnel to directly fill the engine block through the water hoses or coolant sensor openings. If you can't get anything else in there, leave the sensor out and continue filling the expansion tank until water starts coming out of the sensor opening. Then put the sensor back in and continue filling the expansion tank until it's full. This will ensure that the engine block and radiator are almost completely free of air bubbles. The only thing left is the heater core, which usually vents itself on most VW/Audi vehicles. Simply set the heating/climate control to the highest temperature and let the engine run; you should soon notice that the water level in the expansion tank drops, so refill it, and you're almost done. Let the engine warm up or drive it for a while, then let it cool down, check the level, and if necessary, add a little more coolant. That should be all.


The engine mount (especially its position) is the most ridiculous design element on the entire assembly .
Man kommt nich einmal richtig an die Spannrolle heran, ohne das Teil zu lösen. That's really stupid.
And the screws between the engine mount and the motor bracket (60 Nm + 90°) are really tight .


Okay, the Golf4 platform... The timing belt is a huge pain on those cars, whether it's diesel or gasoline, thanks to this stupid engine mount; it's the biggest hassle there is ... I'd rather have a V6 TDI in an Audi/Passat, really!

Best regards,

Dominique.

Okay, here's the information and pictures I promised, although a bit late.

By the way, after the timing belt replacement, the engine started immediately, after just 1 second of cranking, and is running perfectly.

Attached you will find some pictures of my motor mounting device. The two M10 threaded rods pass through the holes on the back of the motor block, ensuring that the bracket can be securely fastened to the block. This prevents any slippage.
The notch is necessary because the oil pan, along with its connecting screws, is located in this area. Only in this way can a flush fit be achieved on the back of the oil pan. Another chamfer is required on the transmission side, as there is a rounded section on the transmission housing.

The entire device is securely bolted to the block. A jack can then be used to apply force directly into the block at the edge.

Here's a brief overview of the key dimensions:

2 slats/beams with dimensions 58x58mm and a length of 350mm (groove 15mm wide, 20mm deep, chamfer on the end approximately 8mm).
2 threaded rods, M10 size, installed with a hole spacing of 310mm.
2 angle brackets, 100x60mm.
2 crossbars, also measuring 58x58mm with a length of 180mm.

If you need more details, please feel free to contact me.

Regards,
Alex.