Ball joints: buy new or replace bushings?

Hi,

I don't have a press, but I can replace the control arms.

Should I have the bushings pressed in (by VW or somewhere else), or should I just replace the entire control arms?

What are your thoughts (based on your own experiences) about aftermarket control arms? Because recently, there have been reports of negative experiences with Zub hydraulic bearings, and I'm only concerned about the bushings, not whether the QL is bent.

m;

Hi Martin,
'I had the control arms replaced some time ago (approximately 120,000 km ago, around the time of the second timing belt change).'
integrated into the accessory. The goods were/are okay.

Sure, here's the translation:

'lg' is a German abbreviation that stands for 'liebe Grüße,' which translates to 'best regards' or 'warm greetings' in English.

I completely replaced the QL engine in an A3 manufactured in 1996. It had 200,000 kilometers on it. Now it has 300,000 km on the odometer. While some wear and tear is noticeable, the driver also tends to push it hard, so it's not entirely representative. I'm still giving them a lot of time, though; I think other parts will likely fail before this one.

I bought parts from a company called "Lehmförderer" (I'm not sure if that's the correct spelling), and I can't say they're bad. In my opinion, they were well-made and not very expensive. I'm not sure what specific information I need to look up. However, I don't know how much original parts cost from VW/Audi. Depending on the options available as accessories, I think you'll likely save money by replacing the bearings yourself, and there's generally nothing wrong with that. For me, it was simpler and faster. The main thing was to unscrew, pry it out, screw it back in, and it's done. If you're only changing the bearings, as far as I know, you also need to replace the fittings.

@dieselmartin

If the control arms are otherwise in good condition, I would only recommend replacing the bushings in your case.

For the budget-friendly option, it might be sufficient for your needs if you only replace the rear nozzles. But it always depends on the condition.

In that case, I would choose the OE option because the parts are relatively inexpensive.

With a little skill, this can be completed for both parties in about an hour.

Hello,

"This weekend, I replaced the ball joints on my Golf and used replacement parts from the aftermarket, specifically from Lemförder."
While the original parts have a VW logo, they are also manufactured by Lemförder, and their logo is also present on them. Processing as the originals.
@Dieselmartin
Do you want to replace the control arm bushings on your Golf? I plan to do that too. Please tell me how easy it was to loosen the screws.
That's why I haven't done it yet. I'm worried that the screws might strip or that the cap nuts might get damaged.

Hi Oliver,

I've replaced the control arms on a Golf 2 several times before.

The cars weren't much older/hadn't been driven as much as my Golf 3, and they always worked perfectly. He even ended up on the side of the road, in the ice and snow, because his colleague lost control on the ice and swerved into him.

Apply plenty of rust remover/WD-40 and take a coffee break first. Then use good tools, so you only have to apply force once, instead of constantly fiddling with the screw.
I generally replace screws because being stingy with those 2-3 euros is definitely the wrong approach. However, it does require preparation, as you need to buy the screws in the first place.

I just saw that the QL values are not symmetrical... are the original ones not symmetrical either? In the area of the rear bearing, they exhibit a deflection in only one direction, which results in the bottom being on one side and the top being on the other side!!?

m;

I would only replace the bushings, but I would use genuine parts for that. You might be able to press them in using a vise (like I did with my vehicle), but the control arms look different.

Hello Martin,

WD-40 and always having new screws on hand is a given. But despite WD40 and a long...
You often hear reports of stripped screws, especially when it comes to the control arms. I have never done this myself, so I can't speak from experience.
I've also needed a pipe extension on the tool to reach the clamping screws of the ball joints. The problem wasn't the mother, but the screw was rusted solid in the bore of the wheel bearing housing.
If the same thing is happening with the screws in the rubber bushings, and the metal sleeves inside the bushings start spinning as a result...
What did you pay for the control arms? Are these parts from VW or are they aftermarket?

I haven't paid anything yet.

The photo is from a website. Although, this offer seems somewhat legitimate. At least the ball joints are bolted with a washer plate, not with 3 loose nuts, and the photo shows 2 genuine control arms, not a dizzying photo montage.

Currently, I tend to use VW vehicles for pressing and releasing operations. I need to ask what they want for the parts and the re-crimping.

m;

Currently, I tend to use VW for pressing in and out. I need to ask what they want for the parts and the re-stamping.

The four rubber-metal bearings cost approximately 50 EUR in total.

Sure, here's the translation:

'lg' is a German abbreviation that stands for 'liebe Grüße,' which translates to 'best regards' or 'warm greetings' in English.

I'm not sure about this, but I believe the QL units I bought cost around 70€ each (we somehow get a discount, but it's not much)... I'll check again.

The QL components are as shown in the photo; they are mirror-symmetric, which explains the different pressing patterns and the different part numbers.

The G3 QL models do not have different part numbers, not even at Volkswagen.

A complete VW QL costs 86 EUR.

Either the VW parts are truly symmetrical, or they have the same pressing processes, meaning that the "indentation" appears both on the top and the bottom.

I'll take a look at that today.

m;

Oh... regarding the parts for the Golf IV platform, there were definitely two different part numbers, and you couldn't interchange them. I mean.

Hello,

I was just at VW and ordered all the bolts for the control arms.
The QL costs are included in the VW price. Tax: 91 euros.
I bought some now from the accessories section. They cost 57 euros including tax and are from Lemförder. The build quality looks good. The stabilizer links cost 27 euros. The bearing bushings are included.
I'm really curious to see what screws they use.

Okay.

VW wants 20 impressions per page for the press run, which means 80 EUR / 100 * 20 = 16 EUR.
Okay, so the original items cost me: 2 x 25 EUR for the storage plus 2 x 16 EUR for the pressing = 82 EUR.

You can get Q-track rod ends for about 55 EUR (the ones in the picture) from that shop.

CRAP, what am I supposed to do now? I saw what happens when you look too closely at your tires. If I had bought them from VW, I would have already have new ones, and everything would be fine... and actually, I'm kind of a fan of original parts...

Well, the rear axle is still on it... they want to put the 250 ZE on there.

m;

Hi Martin,

The price of 55 euros would also be a bit too high for me.
"I've already paid 27 euros per ball joint, plus 56 euros for a control arm."
I always feel like I'm getting cheap, Chinese knock-offs from .bay.
I've now opted for a middle ground and chosen branded items. VW uses the same manufacturer for its parts.