Reduce Turbo Pressure & Injection Volume?

Hello everyone, I have a Golf 3 1Z Syncro.

'Previously owned, chipped for approximately 120 horsepower, with engine control unit (ECU) optimization!'

Okay, so I installed 216 injectors, and now I'm experiencing almost constant massive black smoke at full load with a boost pressure of 1.3 bar.

'When starting the engine from cold, it runs a bit rough, but if you keep the RPMs at around 1100 for about 10 seconds, it runs perfectly fine afterwards!'

I have VAG-COM, and I would now like to reduce the LDA (boost pressure control valve) to a maximum of 1.2 bar, as I don't necessarily want to destroy the turbocharger.

and adjust the fuel injection amount to reduce smoke and improve cold starting!

Unfortunately, there's only one tuning shop within a radius of about 200 km that I know of, and they've declined my request. They don't do any work involving injector modifications.

The oil temperature remains the same as before, with a maximum of 123°C during prolonged idling. However, when driving uphill at full throttle on the highway, or normally on country roads at an average speed of 100°C, it usually reaches a maximum of 109°C. Only when driving uphill on the highway does it tend to increase more after some time.

It's difficult to find reputable tuners who do that kind of work and are still in business. I'm located in Lower Austria!

Hello,

I think it would be a good idea to talk to Rainer; maybe he can offer you something. However, he won't modify your current software. For that, you should contact your own tuner.

You could send the control unit by mail, which would mean the distance wouldn't matter initially.

Did it not occur to you that you have an injection system designed for smaller nozzles? What did you expect to gain from larger nozzles, especially now that you want to reduce the boost pressure?

Hi, yes, I was aware that the larger injectors would affect things, and it's working well overall, but before, the boost pressure had a maximum value of 1.3 bar. Now, it's almost constantly at 1.3 bar. Could it be that the increased exhaust gases are causing it to reach that pressure earlier? Or I'm not sure how the injectors are related to this!

And regarding the other tuner, the previous owner had it installed, and I have no idea where or who did it. All I know is that it's not an inline adapter.

And what about my original German device, and taking it to a tuner?

Can I train the WFS (Wireless Flight System) if I can find a used 1Z control unit?

Hello tjh,

If you want your car to run properly and last a little longer,
Then, obtain the original software for your ECU, and as Mr. Antje already mentioned -> ask Rainer.

'1.3 bar of boost pressure for the 1Z engine with the original turbocharger is quite a lot, especially if it's causing soot to form!'


I drive a Golf IV (ALH) with 0.216 injectors, tuned by Rainer (1.25 bar).
It accelerates like a rocket when you floor it, but it's too much for me in the long run.
(The clutch is slipping, I'm worried about the drivetrain. I'm having a hard time controlling the acceleration with the gas pedal.)

At the same time, I still have the option to run the (Rainer-modified) standard setting of 0.95 bar.
And it turned out that this is the solution for me.
It's hard to say exactly what he did, but the car runs brilliantly in its stock configuration.
It delivers significant power even at 1300 RPM and revs willingly up to 41xx (with approximately 110 horsepower).

I suspect that, aside from certain adjustments such as idle volume, injection timing, the torque curve, and of course the torque limitation, the overall performance has been reduced compared to the original.

My suggestion would be:

Boost pressure: 1.1 bar. Slight increase in turbidity.
[EDIT] The above is likely incorrect because there are 0.216 nozzles, so adjustments may need to be made downwards in certain speed ranges. [EDIT]

Increase torque KF, but do not exceed 270 Nm.
Ask Rainer, he can do that.


Regards,

Borys.

tjh wrote:

Can I train the WFS if I can find a used 1Z control unit?

Yes, you can, with VAG-COM. Just do a quick search.

Could you please try to adhere to proper spelling and capitalization? It takes a lot of effort for me to understand your posts.

Hi,

Just my two cents: A single turbocharger setup can't regulate 1.3 bar of boost... So, either limit the power to 125 horsepower, or do some more modifications.

Best regards, Rainer.

Without wanting to undermine anyone in power.

The 16Bitter (which was the last one available in the 1Z or the GG as a replacement) has a 250 kPa sensor. It should be able to handle 1.3 bar.

Or are the overpressure levels expected at regulation target 1.3 so far above 1.5 bar that even the 250 bar sensor cannot handle them?

m;

Hi Martin,

Yes, that's true, but you can only find those "1Z" engines with a magnifying glass. 1.3 bar is the typical value that the turbocharger provides when there is no regulation at all, just before the part breaks. These are the tuning modifications where people call me and complain because, with a standard "08/15" chip and 0.232 injectors in the 1Z, the pipes between the turbocharger and the intercooler MELT }.

Best regards, Rainer.

Schmelzen ?? Oops.

For proper chipping:
Then I would simply take the AHU and ALE units – they should all be MSA15 models.

m;

'Hey everyone, so I finally found someone nearby, about 40km away, who can finally tune my car correctly. I'm going there tomorrow, and he told me not to drive aggressively anymore because the dynamic injection timing isn't right. Under full load, the combustion temperature is way too high, and the pistons will likely fail much faster than I can imagine!'

He said it wouldn't be a problem to minimize the smoking, get the cold start working correctly, and he would also reduce the boost pressure to a tolerable level.

Then it should probably work!

Rainer K. wrote:

Those are the tuning setups where people call me and complain because, with a standard chip and 0.232 injectors in a 1Z engine, the pipes between the turbocharger and the intercooler MELT.

Hi Rainer,

You mean plastic pipes for low-pressure cooling systems, like in the G3, right? With plastic, I could imagine corresponding compressor outlet temperatures.

The first few centimeters of the LL section (or, depending on the platform, all pipes up to the LLK) are often made of aluminum -> before they melt, I think the loader will have already broken down.

Hello Ulf,

Yes, I meant the plastic pipes.

[Edit]: Awesome, someone just posted who had 0.232 injectors installed in a 1Z engine 7 months ago, along with a power box. He was already resistant to advice back then, which is why I eventually stopped commenting, and he got his desired injectors installed in his injector holders. He explicitly did not want an ECU adjustment.

Now he's calling me, saying his car is only running at 1200 rpm, and essentially blaming me, meaning, according to his workshop, it's the 0.232 injectors. When I asked him if he noticed anything else besides the 1200 rpm, like black smoke or knocking, he said no.

On the other hand, he said that the car had often jerked strangely after the nozzle replacement and full throttle, and sometimes the power was completely gone. Why, I wonder. Perhaps due to a lack of receptiveness to advice?
Yes, are we here in the circus? First, they insisted on using the 0.232 injectors against my advice, then they complained about the emergency program, and now, after 7 months, the NHG's own injector holders are showing an error in the error memory (according to another workshop)?

It just remains to be seen that it was the same person who texted me on the phone about the melted plastic tube... Some people would honestly be better off selling frozen dog poop instead of rewarding bad ideas with good work and then having a lot of trouble afterwards:evil: Why do I even write the product descriptions if they're just ignored?
[Edit]

Best regards, Rainer.

Quote:

The first few centimeters of the LL line (or, depending on the platform, all pipes up to the LLK) are often made of aluminum

.

Not on the 1Z. It already has plastic behind the loading area after just 3 cm.
The AFN already has 30 cm of aluminum tubing running up to the valve cover.

And the Ibiza ASV even has specially designed air intakes in the underbody to cool the turbocharger!


FEAR - maybe I should measure it or stick some cooling fins on it.

m;

@rainer:

Hi, so, I don't want to copy that, and I've also heard that the boost pressure is too high, but that will all be fixed now!

But seriously, what kind of results can you expect with a 1Z engine using 232 injectors? You can't really increase the boost pressure beyond 1.2 bar, and what's the point of using diesel if it's just going to create smoke?

What kind of realistic performance gains can you expect with the original turbocharger and 232 injectors on a 1Z engine, assuming an ECU remap? Probably not a huge amount, right?

Hi,

If the engine is intended to maintain its power and the car is not meant to be modified with fog lights, a maximum boost pressure of 200 kPa from the pressure sensor is advisable, which would result in approximately 125 horsepower. Otherwise, around 135-140 horsepower is possible.
"In my opinion, 0.232 injectors have no place in a single-cylinder engine, unless you're planning to modify so much that it would be more sensible to install a significantly more powerful and reliable direct injection system instead."
With a different turbocharger and a 250kPa sensor, you can also achieve 150 horsepower. However, it would be easier to simply choose the more robust AFN, ALH, AHF, or ASV engine.

Quote:

...with engine control unit optimization! Now I've installed 216 injectors, and I'm now experiencing almost permanent boost at 1.3 bar...

I find it quite bold to talk about an 'optimization' here. If a tuner disables the boost pressure control due to a lack of knowledge, I honestly think that is quite suboptimal.

Best regards, Rainer.

Hello, things were like that until now, but today I'm taking it to a tuner who will properly optimize it!

I will report back then!