Modifying the air intake path to the air filter...

Hello everyone,

Okay, here's the translation:

'I'm having a problem with my LEON. A auxiliary heater was installed. Now, I put the car on a lift and saw that on my ARL model, the intake duct is routed to the center of the front of the car, and it's drawing air from there. The problem is that because the auxiliary heater takes up a lot of space, the ducting doesn't fit properly anymore and is either open or the hose is kinked.'

How can I relocate the air intake somewhere else? I'm afraid of sucking water in through the opening.

Hello,

I also conducted experiments with airflow using the same design (Leon ARL).

Worst setting among the tested modifications. Maximum speed is reduced by approximately 3-5 km/h, but it offers a more responsive and lively acceleration from low RPM.

Best handling, quick and responsive even at low RPMs, but without any compromises.
at maximum speed or in the upper third of the engine's RPM range.

In any case, it was impossible to completely eliminate the water that was being sucked in, but it was never to the point where it was necessary to risk a major water ingress.

If you are already modifying the intake manifold, directing the airflow into the manifold is an important factor to ensure the mass airflow sensor (MAF) is not misled.

You have a normal 'needle's eye' opening in the hard plastic tube that runs from the airbox to the 'splash water pre-filter box,' which is located directly behind the left headlight, between the steering wheel (SW) and the battery. The opening of the tube from the airbox into this splash water collection box represents the narrowest cross-section. This splash water separator then draws its air from a relatively wide gap between the radiator and the hood mounting. A plastic air duct is used to utilize the entire width between the hood latch and the headlight.


Ideally, you would have photos so that people can a) visualize what is being referred to, and b) see the installation location of the auxiliary heater.

Basically, you have the option of removing this existing setup and directly drawing cool outside air from the area near the left wheel well/fender using a 100mm or even 120mm flexible hose. The design should incorporate a sufficiently large cross-section and a slope from the air chamber to the opening of the modified hose, allowing any splashing water to be gravity-filtered, even under full load and maximum RPM.

Ideally, you can use temperature-resistant 100mm flexible ducts (available at hardware stores, the thick-walled cooker hood ducts!!, not the thin ones, as those won't last!). These ducts, due to their flexibility and length, offer the possibility of drawing in air freely from the air filter box. However, this can be tricky. You need to know that certain vibration characteristics, as well as the length and connection to the air filter box, can affect the result, not necessarily due to inferior physics, but because the mass airflow sensor (MAF) seems to be precisely tuned to the original setup. You would also need to be prepared to install a reducer (available at hardware stores) to accommodate the appropriate diameter. To apply resin to the inside of a pipe or tube.

Sure, here's the translation:

'Just one more thing for clarification: 'Intake manifold - kink in the hose -> discovered on stage'?'
You mean one of the hoses connecting to or from the intercooler, right?
I'm asking because the air intake system is usually better viewed from above.

okay...thank you for the explanation

Okay, so the auxiliary heater is mounted on the left side of the bumper... and there's a plastic pipe running past it with a 90-degree angled connector... and that connector isn't properly positioned anymore because the auxiliary heater is in the way.

-> so, I'm assuming it's the intercooler... hmm, what can be done?!... I'll try to take a picture

If it's the intercooler intake, it has nothing to do with drawing in water. In that case, you need a hose that fits properly. A bend in the hose isn't ideal, and a leak is even worse. Absolutely nothing should be left open!

Okay... then I'll try to figure something out... I've been thinking about it all night .

Well... that's the reason why companies like Webasto don't approve their auxiliary heaters for use with the ARL engine, because it has the described bend in the charge air ducting right there. It's certainly difficult to modify that, as you don't have much room to work with. It comes directly from the LLK at the mentioned location.

If you have a solution, let me know. We looked into this with an ARL Golf, considering the ABE (which, at least from Webasto, is only available for TDI engines up to the ARL). Regarding the plan to install the auxiliary heater on the front right, we decided to abandon that idea.

Hello everyone,

"The general solution is to install it on the right side, underneath the bumper. That's where my Webasto auxiliary heater is installed in my Toledo, at least. However, it's been there for 4 years, so the newer heaters might not fit anymore. A local, small Bosch service installed it back then, and it must have been quite a fiddly job. Before you ask, I can only provide details about the exact heater model and possibly pictures by the weekend."
Regarding the topic: "...was installed..." --> Does this imply a warranty issue?

Best regards, Peer.

Okay, I'm not aware of any approval that doesn't exist... I have an Eberspächer heater installed, the 4.3 kW model. So, he'll be putting it on the lift again tomorrow...!!!

Well, I'm saying that because my Webasto is only approved for AJM, AUY, AXR, ASZ, and VP engines. The reason is simple: the standard bracket doesn't fit due to the installation space constraints, as we've already discussed. As far as I know, there isn't a Webasto approved for the ARL engine either. Whether that bothers anyone is a completely different matter.

I'm talking about the ThermoTop Z/C or E models.

Okay, so... my heating system's air duct, which goes straight up, is being pushed about 2cm to the right. Because of this, the duct doesn't fit into the 90-degree angled piece. I'll try to figure out a way to fix it.

Photos are coming .