A4/B5 Front Axle Replacement Guide (04-02-2007, 1:20)

Since my front axle is getting increasingly noisy, I plan to replace it.

I understand how the tie rods, track rods, and lower control arms work together.
How can I properly adjust and tighten the two upper control arms when the car is on its wheels?

As far as I remember, you have to remove the entire shock absorber assembly to access the upper, front handlebar mount. Now you can...
a) Gradually remove and reinstall the handlebars, ensuring they are positioned in the same way as before.
b.) Someone might find the angle specifications within the "program" (I unfortunately don't have access to it at the moment), or...
c) Everything is installed, and the spring strut is raised using a gearbox jack until the vehicle is almost off the lift platform.
lifts off; takes off; departs; rises.

"Option C seems too risky for me."

I'll try it with "a" then. It would be great if I also had the angle information.

The upper handlebars are attached to the inside of the yoke. Where the handlebars pass the outside or, more precisely, the "tip" of the yoke, a distance of 47 +/- 2 mm should be maintained between the bottom edge of the yoke and the top edge of the handlebar.

Let me see if I can find a picture that explains it better.

Bye.
peace

"It's not really that risky... I usually did it this way when I didn't have to remove the entire shock absorber."
Since you have to remove the shock absorber anyway, option a) is a good idea... it's not entirely correct, but it should work... (yes, the thing about the transmission jack is also incorrect... I know ).

*edit* suddenly... someone is already there with the data

"Thank you for the data. However, a diagram would be even better. I'm not quite sure I understand your explanation completely. After all, I'm just a hobbyist."

Okay, here it might be clearer what is meant.
[img]/download.php?id=1859[/img]
The long, dashed line that runs across the image is intended to be a virtual reference edge, from which a perpendicular distance should be measured downwards to the handlebar when it is in the extended position.

Bye.
peace

Thank you for the drawing.

Okay, so today I tried working on the front axle with two friends. The lower control arms came out and went back in without any problems.

"Only the screw that secures the two upper handlebars is completely stuck and won't come out. Does anyone have a tip on how to get it out without removing the steering bearing or drilling the thing?" It's not fun dealing with a 10.9 grade bolt.

The screw is usually rusted and stuck... unfortunately.

If I had the time, I would usually verschandeln them the day before with a wire brush and spray them with rust remover.
If nothing worked, there's a special tool for that. I unfortunately don't remember the name of it anymore. Maybe you can find someone friendly who will lend it to you.

Okay, I understand. Please provide the text you want me to translate from German to English. I will only give you the translation.
http://images.google.de/imgres?imgurl=http://www.roth-spezialwerkzeug.de/bilder/neu003a.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.roth-spezialwerkzeug.de/neues.html&h=133&w=250&sz=3&hl=de&start=6&tbnid=u_TVPFw5-XHIoM:&tbnh=59&tbnw=111&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dspezialwerkzeug%2Baudi%26svnum%3D10%26hl%3Dde%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:de:official%26hs%3DSRT%26sa%3DG
This tool pushes the screw out. It's important to let the tool press against the nut, otherwise the threads of the screw will easily become damaged.

If you can't get the tool to work and the screw won't budge, I would cut the screw flush with the surface and then pry it out. It's often a really frustrating job.

We used significant force to move the screw approximately 2-3 mm further out of its hole.

BTW:

Was this crap changed with the B6, or is it still identical to the B5?

Quote:

We used significant force to move the screw, extending its head approximately 2-3 mm outward.

hehe... workshop everyday life .

I'm not entirely sure if that changed with the B6 model... but the front axle is actually the same... and the screws hold up well .
It is likely that the durability of the axle levers has been "revised."

Hello,

This screw can become a problem. The note about the special tool is, of course, accurate. You can find a replica at www.inox-schrauben.de for a reasonable price.

Here's how I managed to remove it using DIY methods. By the way, there are occasional warnings against hammering or heating with a torch, as this can potentially damage the swivel bearing.
So, I started spraying the screw regularly with a good rust remover a few weeks in advance – but a few days should also be enough.
Then jack up the vehicle, remove the wheel, and slightly loosen the nut. Turn the steering wheel so that you can access the head of the screw.
Turn it gently back and forth as much as possible. While doing this, watch (and hope) that the rear part of the screw shaft loosens slightly.
Then, apply increasing force while turning until the screw completely loosens, or – and this is more likely to happen – the head breaks off.
Then turn the steering wheel so that you can access the nut.
Now, with the help of your mother, you can remove the remaining part of the screw by simply turning it further.
If the thread is stripped, use enough washers and continue with the removal process.

Make sure to apply Cu paste to the shaft of the new screw; then, next time, you can tighten it as easily as I do in the picture .

[img]//files/swivel_bearing_screw.jpg[/img]

Bye.
peace

Okay, the front axle was replaced last weekend. We loosened the top bolt by heating it up, spraying it with WD40, and using a small impact driver.

Thank you for your help. I will report back on the new Meyle parts later if there is interest.