Turbo Control Golf 5 BKC

Hello,

I performed two logging runs in 3rd gear. The turbocharger boost pressure control is deviating from the target values. After the first overshoot, the control goes too low.
Similarly, the air mass follows the subsidence.
I haven't received any error messages. However, there is sometimes a noticeable, albeit subjective, decrease in performance.
How should I approach problem-solving now?
I would appreciate any tips.

Mike.



Okay, I'm ready. Please provide the German text you want me to translate.

Very often, the solenoid valve block (now known as 6Q0 906 625) has internal faults.
If I can't find anything else, this would be a good option.

Hello,

My problem with the 1.9 TDI is still ongoing.
I have now replaced the solenoid valve block, mass airflow sensor, and boost pressure sensor.
The intermittent rough running of the engine is still present.
If the engine is not running properly, the engine noise will also change. It becomes louder and more of a rumble, and it feels like it's being held back.
Sometimes, after a while, the engine runs completely normally again and accelerates well.

I've also noticed that when parking in the garage, you don't always hear the turbo continuing to run for a short time afterwards.

Can anyone help me?
Driving the car isn't fun anymore.

Mike.

Does it make any knocking sounds or produce any smoke?
Can you rule out any leaks?
What is the status of the mass points located at the front of the longitudinal beam and in the water tank?

mike173 wrote:

The intermittent rough running of the engine is still present. If the engine is not running properly, the engine noise will also change. It becomes louder and more of a rumble, and it feels like it's being held back. Sometimes, after a while, the engine runs completely normally again and accelerates well.

Even though it might sound strange... these symptoms remind me of the regeneration process of the particulate filter.

But that engine was only available with the BLS engine code for the 1.9-liter, 105 hp version.

Hi,
I don't have a particulate filter.
The weight measurements have already been checked by the dealer.
"I experienced some issues with the vehicle a while ago, where it would stall frequently. It seemed to be a problem with the power supply to the MSG (presumably a component in the car). The engine would simply shut off while driving. Could this have caused any damage?"

I still need to have the leaks checked, but there's no smoke or soot visible when driving. At least, nothing that looks like what you'd see with Polish trucks.

Which sensors could cause a reduction in engine power? Could a temperature sensor be defective? Is it also possible that there is a defect in the engine control unit (ECU) that is not stored in the error memory?

Thank you, Mike.

Very often, the magnetic valve block (now called 6Q0 906 625) has internal faults.
If there's nothing else to be found, then that would be a good first candidate.

What is the part number of the old solenoid valve block?

There could be multiple entries, and some of them might be duplicates with the same information but with an older construction date/building phase.
The units currently being delivered should be free of defects.

Hello,
I wanted to pressure test the intercooler system today.
The repair manual for the BKC engine states that approximately 500 mbar of pressure should be applied to the intake hose of the air filter.
At approximately 200 mbar, it already released pressure from the crankcase ventilation system and the oil filler cap.
Something is wrong, or broken.

Does anyone know the correct procedure for verification?

Best regards, Mike.

@ Mike

"I'm also having the same problem with the engine. When mine isn't running properly, it sounds like it's just roaring into the air filter box when I accelerate. I've already been to four different dealerships about it, but they haven't been able to find anything wrong. I'm now considering driving the 600 km to Emskirchen and having Rainer K. take a look at it."

Please let me know if you've found anything on that topic.


Regards,

Markus.

@Markus

"In my opinion, the rattling sound coming from the air filter box is caused by the vibrations that occur due to the reduced power. The plastic parts of the air intake system are rattling, and a coolant hose also runs along there."

I have now also replaced the vacuum hoses and the vacuum reservoir.

Interestingly, since the last full tank, it's been running really well for over 200 kilometers.
On the road, my G+ reaches 200 km/h according to the speedometer, so the power is definitely there.

When it's warm, it starts up poorly, but when it's cold, it starts up immediately.

It's the same with dealers for me, I have no idea, and I don't feel like it.

Could you please send me a log file so I can have something to compare with?

Where are you from?

Best regards, Mike.

Hello Mike,

"Fortunately, I haven't had any problems with starting. I also have a G+ model that, according to the speedometer, also reaches speeds of around 200-210 km/h. However, that's not particularly important to me, as I mostly drive around 100-120 km/h on the highway. What I'm missing is the torque when accelerating; sometimes I feel like the turbocharger isn't working. It's inconsistent, though; sometimes it does have more torque, and you can clearly feel the turbocharger building pressure, but it's still far from what I'm used to with TDI engines. I also have an aftermarket RPF (Remap Performance File)."
which I have always considered to be the fault of the perpetrator, but now, after reading your post, I think there might be another reason.
Last night, I drove with 5 other people, and he had a surprisingly good day. He accelerated quite well, even though he was heavily loaded.

Unfortunately, I can't provide you with a log file because I don't have any software for that. Actually, I bought a new car because I don't want to mess around with cars anymore.

I think I'll have to drive to Emskirchen and find someone who knows about this to take a look.

Perhaps there's someone in the Hamburg area who has a VAG COM and would be willing to create some log files for me, which I could then publish here.


Regards,

Markus.

@Markus
What year is your car, and how many kilometers has it been driven?
Since you have exactly the same complaints as I do, it must either be something fundamental that is not working correctly, or we are simply imagining the performance issues.

However, since this is a motor that was used in large quantities, any acute problems should be traceable.

Did you only install the DPF, or a DPF with a catalytic converter integrated?

Best regards, Mike.

Hello.

I spoke on the phone with "VAGTUNING" for about an hour earlier, and during that conversation, we determined that I have a BXE engine. Sorry .
He suggested that I should have my software version read out at a VW service center and, if necessary, have it updated to the latest version.
My Golf+ is from 2007 and has 12,400 km on the odometer. The DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) was retrofitted by VW, and as far as I know, the original catalytic converter is still in place.

I'm not entirely convinced that we're just imagining the performance fluctuations. I believe I'm sensitive enough to be able to distinguish them.

Let's see how it goes from here...


Regards,

Markus.

Okay, let me chime in. What's the exact year of manufacture? Please check the engine code (MKB) and let me know if your vehicle was originally equipped with a DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) or if it was installed later.
I might be able to help you, but I would need more specific information.

Hello,

Sure, I'd be happy to.

Date of issue: 2006-12-29.
MKB: BXE
GKB: JCX
Tracking number: WVWZZZ1KZ7W562702
The Golf originally did not have a DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) from the factory, but it was retrofitted with a VW-approved DPF by the dealer.

I hope this helps. I'm grateful for any tips.


Regards,

Markus.