Turbocharger Removal: How to Open It

Hi everyone.
I have a small problem.
Since I occasionally experience some minor performance issues, I will now also remove the turbocharger from my car and verschandeln the variable geometry turbine (VTG).

I've already done this before, on a Golf 4 AHF manufactured in 1998.
There, I removed the turbocharger from below and installed a new vacuum actuator because the old one was completely rusted and very difficult to press in.
Since the turbocharger was already removed, I wanted to open it up and verschandeln the variable geometry turbine (VGT) mechanism inside.
I couldn't access it from the output side.

Since the same turbocharger is installed in my car, I don't want to remove it just to find out that it doesn't work.

Is there a trick after you've removed the five screws?
Or just "brute force"?

There used to be a thread where someone posted some pictures.

However, there was absolutely nothing suggesting that it would be disassembled.

Good evening.

Well, those screws have been in there for many years, and due to the constant temperature changes, they've become baked in and rusted solid.
As always, applying heat, using a rust remover, and hammering can help.
In all the turbos I've taken apart, I've never seen one with a broken part. Good luck!

Hello,

I always use WD-40 and a small rubber mallet for that.
You might be able to get it out with a small metal hammer.
It's always a matter of personal feeling. It hasn't happened to me before, but I think that...
The tool "hammer" is not necessarily a precision instrument like an ATL, so exercise extreme caution when hammering!

It's definitely pointless to hammer on the aluminum casing of the compressor.
Certainly, a sense of tact is essential.

Perhaps "warming up" might also be helpful.

Under no circumstances should you attempt to rotate the rotor assembly within the turbine housing!
The two parts are positioned relative to each other using a pen.

Before assembly, I still apply a small amount of Never Seize or copper assembly paste to the contact surfaces of both parts.

Best regards,
Thomas.

Thank you in advance for the answers.
The problem was only opening the exhaust side.
The screws came out perfectly fine.
I only tried to open it using my two hands.
I didn't dare to use a hammer.
I'm going to take action next week and see what happens.

Best regards,
Sascha.

Hi there,

If it's a Garrett turbocharger, I would be careful about the screws.
I once had one with completely bizarre screws – metric threads and imperial socket sizes. It's easy to damage the heads of those screws when using metric sockets.

Regards,
Jens.

If the rust isn't too severe, it's an SW10 and an M6 on the turbine side.

Let the rust remover soak in and gently rock it back and forth. Caution: When pulling it out, be careful not to let the turbine wheel hit something, or that's it.

Best regards, Rainer.

I still have two questions, though.
There are two possible ways to upgrade the turbocharger.
Once going up (which, in my opinion, is the faster way), and then down.

VW specifies a time of 3.5 hours for the installation and removal process.
What do you think?

@Rainer:
Do you have any turbos for sale as a replacement? Just in case mine fails.

Best regards,

Hi,

The next larger loader (VP2) and the adapter piece for the LD hose are in stock. I need to inquire about the delivery time for the original part.
If the dataset is a series, then the original item makes more sense.

Quote:

VW specifies a time of 3.5 hours for installation and removal. What do you think?

It depends on how rusty the screws are on the studs in the terminal block.

Best regards, Rainer.

I just upgraded the turbocharger.
It took just under an hour.

Now, let's get to the actual problem.
I can't seem to get this damn thing on, specifically on the exhaust side.
I need urgent advice.
I'm completely desperate.
Best regards,

Okay, it's me again.

I've been trying it for the past 2 hours.
No success.
Whether it's a hammer, welding torch, or rust remover.

I flooded it with throttle body cleaner last night.
The VTG was very easy to operate immediately afterwards.
I don't trust that roast.

What else can I do?

Expand the wave and then squeeze it?

Once the VTG (Variable Transmission Gear) is working again, assemble it and test it. If you keep fiddling with it for a few more hours, you'll probably end up breaking it soon anyway.

Okay,
Since I couldn't open the charger, I decided to send it back for repair.

I received a (hopefully) good offer.
When I removed the charger, I also took out the entire battery management system and checked for any oil leaks. Since I only found a very small amount of oil (a few milliliters), I assumed that the charger was in good condition.
Therefore, send it to VTG for maintenance.

I'll probably receive it on Tuesday or Wednesday next week and install it right away.

I will gladly report on my progress as far as is permitted within this forum.
Just to let you know upfront, a 12-month warranty is also included.


Best regards,

It is done.

I received the refurbished loader back yesterday.
No comparison to before. The responsiveness thanks to the new VTG (variable transmission gear) is amazing.
Overshoot? What is that? I am completely satisfied.

I would recommend it to everyone.

I'm not going to mention a price here, as I'm not sure if that's allowed.


Best regards,