Rear Diff Bushings Golf 4

I'm currently working on finishing up a remaining task from the last inspection.
I removed the rear axle from my Golf IV to replace the rubber-to-metal bushings.
After removing the old bearings, I discovered that they were hydrodynamic bearings with an outer diameter of 69mm. The holes in the shaft are approximately 69.5mm.
I went to the dealership and got new bushings. However, they only have rubber-to-metal bushings now, and they have a diameter of just under 72mm, which is a difference of a full 2mm. The knowledgeable staff at the dealership told me that there's only one type of bushing available, and they wouldn't reveal any more information, nor would the catalog. I've since found out that, according to the original documentation, the hydraulic bushings were actually replaced with rubber-to-metal bushings. I'm just bothered by the 2mm difference in diameter. Has anyone else done this before? Could the bushings be pressed in using an M12 threaded rod and corresponding pressure plates (which I have), or do you need a press? I have a hydraulic press, but I don't currently have anyone to help me position the heavy axle vertically on the press.

Hi Jürgen, I have some with diameters of 72 mm and 69 mm.
If the replacement is made of plastic and 72mm in size, it might fit. But metal definitely won't work.

I just checked Lehmförder again, and they have a bearing size of 71.4 mm (replace hydraulic bearings in pairs).
You need to measure again, more precisely.
1J0 501 541 C = 72 mm
1J0 501 541 D = 69 mm

Thank you, Teileklaus.

I've already had 2 batteries with a 72-cell configuration (the outer diameter of the metal casing is 71.5-71.8mm).
purchased. I was brave enough to try pressing it in. I thought I'd risk the €20 if it went wrong. But lo and behold, it works quickly with an M12 threaded rod and the necessary pressure pieces - which I had from a wheel bearing tool set that I bought cheaply on eBay. It wasn't even very strenuous. I only lightly lubricated the outer bearing surface and the housing in the rear axle with engine oil. The housings in the rear axle have a slight recess on both sides, which makes the process much easier. However, you can already see that the metal casing pushes a slight bulge ahead of it as it enters the housing. Therefore, you no longer need to use the 1J0 501 541 D bearings - the was actually right, you can generally use 1J0 501 541 C.

Okay, 69 mm would have been too small anyway, if you had a 69.5 mm hole!

I don't believe that, because the old bearings were hydrolubrication bearings!

Jürgen, I see a 0.5 mm gap. Is that a 69-sized bushing in a 69.5-sized hole?

Of course, I had already thoroughly cleaned the area around the rear axle, making it completely spotless. There were definitely hydraulic supports in there, which had been empty for a long time and were, accordingly, corroded.

I couldn't imagine that the new 72s would be installed without some brutal force, but the outer casing is so soft that it deforms and adapts perfectly. I wanted to continue working on it tonight, and I'm still dealing with the two simmerings of the differential, and I also had a new MFA display soldered into the instrument cluster. My wife is currently in the hospital, so I can take my time.

Best regards, Jürgen.

I don't know if this will be helpful, but I also replaced the rear axle bearings on my A3, which was manufactured in 1997.
Specifically, the originals consist of an outer plastic casing, then rubber, and in the middle, an aluminum block that is secured with two rubber strips.
These were replaced with polyurethane bushings from Powerflex.
These were 72 mm in size. The originals were 69 mm.
I never thought it would work, but with the installation tool and an impact driver, it eventually went in. But it was a very tight fit.
If the rubber bushings are on the outside, I'm quite sure they will fit.

Hi,
@SoupOfTheDay
Do you feel a significant difference between the PU bearings and the old bearings?[/quote]

The difference is enormous. In fact, it's even more pronounced on the rear axle than on the front.
The resulting loss of comfort is relatively small.
Only small, hard edges are swallowed less easily than before.
Probably because here, the pulling happens both backwards and upwards simultaneously.

Okay, I understand. I will include the original versions.
Bye.

Why?
The PU bushings offer a much sportier driving experience.
If I had the choice, I would always install polyurethane bushings.

Hi.
I installed PU bushings for the torque strut because they were cheaper than the complete strut from . I probably didn't check to see if the rubber bushings were available separately. In the TDI engine, this definitely doesn't work! Because they are much too hard. Since then, I've had serious concerns about installing PU bushings. I still have a set of large PU bushings for the rear axle, and I'm still hesitating about putting them in.
Has the sound of the rolling mechanism changed?

Yes, this rubber for the torque strut is also available individually.
I've made that mistake before, buying a complete support system.
I also installed PU rubber in this support once.
I thought it would shake my car up.
The rolling noise has not gotten louder.
As mentioned before, the level of comfort remained almost the same.