Cost for sealing PDEs

Hello everyone,

can someone tell me what the cost of re-sealing pump-nozzle elements at the dealer could be? Is it more sensible to seal all 4 elements or just the leaky ones?

Greetings
Reuselkopp

Hi,

Unfortunately, I don't know the price. I would replace all four of them new.
Furthermore: How will you know exactly which PD element is leaking without an overhaul? There are indeed several possibilities.

Best regards, Rainer

Hi there,
I thought that using the LLRR and MWB23 could help pinpoint the faulty cylinder, which might be noticeable. So, you mean replacing all four cylinders at once would be the best solution. Are there any gasket kits from Bosch that include screws, or do they need to be purchased separately?

Thank you and best regards.
Reuselkopp

"Dichtungssätze are available as a VAG replacement part, and are also offered by other suppliers."
Screws at the .

Best regards, Rainer
PS: I'll check if I have any spare O-rings lying around (Original). Sorry, nothing there.

Hello Rainer,
Thank you for checking. I will be using the Bosch gasket sets. The screws are outrageously expensive, but if I can still get another 100,000 kilometers out of my ASZ, then it's worth it to me.

@Everyone
Regarding the gasket change, I have one more question. The VAG repair manual states that the gaskets should be oiled. With what should they be oiled? Engine oil or VW G000100 grease? While I don't have a measuring tool, I will try it according to Ulf's instructions. Somewhere here, I read a practical tip from Dieselbär that you should only tighten the bolt on the tensioner with 12Nm and 180° instead of 12Nm and 270°. Is there something to it, or is it better than required?

Best regards
Reuselkopp

I also had mine re-sealed - at the local VW dealer. It cost €370 gross, but it was done well, and I was even able to be present and talk to the mechanic. However, it didn't help in my case. The proportion of diesel in the engine oil increased continuously from 8% to 7000km - although this was only noticed marginally - so there should be no further discussion about this!

If it's an 8-valve kit, the Bosch part number is 1417010997. This is the most affordable one on the market. At least, it is here. And there's no way to get it any more original. The pharmacist takes a multiple of that.
Also, the following sentences by Elring are interesting: The part number is 900650 (for the 8-valve PD engine). They don't cost much more, but they also include the ball screw.
Reading the MWB23 is a good approach.

reuselkopp wrote:

that the seals need to be lubricated. With what should it be lubricated? Engine oil or VW G000100 grease? While I don't have a measuring tool, I'll try it according to Ulf's instructions. Somewhere here, I read a practical tip from Dieselbär that you should only tighten the screw on the tensioner with 12Nm and 180° instead of 12Nm and 270°. Is there something to it, or is it better than required? Best regards Reuselkopp

You dip your finger into the oil puddle in the cylinder head below the injector. When installing the long one, make sure it's on the left side. Then, run your oil-covered finger over the zero rings. Clear?

I also know someone who works a lot with these injectors. They also always use 12N m and 180 degrees to prevent the screw from over-tightening. However, it is also the only screw that holds the injector in place. That one shouldn't be twisted either.
I have always used the 270-degree angle as per the guidelines. So far, so good.
Exceptions are for testing purposes: For example, swapping syringes for troubleshooting. In that case, I won't be calling them out. But you wouldn't do that, would you? The thread at the top doesn't allow for unlimited use.

Hello Steffen, thank you for the explanation.

I have already ordered the Bosch gasket set and the adjustment screw from the dealer. It was cheaper than buying the Elring set. But honestly, they have a real problem with the required set of screws (16 pieces) – they want almost 100€ for them here. What a rip-off ! Ideally, I would have gotten the parts guy to do it for me, but he can't be held responsible .
I just hope that the entire repair is worthwhile and that the ASZ will last until the next timing belt change (at 110,000 km) afterwards.

The Wolf method for determining the lower dead center of the camshaft is actually quite puzzling to me. Hopefully, it looks good, otherwise I'll have a problem.

Thank you and best regards.
Reuselkopp