Intercooler Repair: Is it Worth It?

Hello forum,

I've always enjoyed reading your stories about tinkering and fixing things, some of which are meticulously perfect, while others are adventurous detective tales. Now, I have a question of my own (hopefully it will stay just that!).

Here's the translation:

'For sale: A 1998 Passat with a 3B AFN automatic transmission, recently chipped (within the last 1500 km) – current mileage: only 80,000 km.'

The lower (intake-side) cover of the liquid cooling system popped off due to a significant impact from the heatsink. The parts are undamaged, but the flange on the heatsink that holds the cover in place is slightly bent.
At first, it seemed like a straightforward job, but upon closer inspection of the parts during the cleaning phase, I noticed that the rubber gasket originally located between the cover and the radiator had at least 1 cm of horizontal clearance on each side when relaxed – meaning it was far too large or long to be repositioned into its intended position using my limited resources when attempting reassembly.

The challenge here is to reliably seal the connection between the pipe and the radiator under pressure and temperature variations. I can read the temperature of the cooled intake air, but unfortunately, I don't know how warm/hot it is in the inlet area of the intercooler.
The posts I read on the topic of LLK (likely referring to a specific type of sealing material or component) mentioned permanent adhesives, fabric mats, or even silicone (which, besides the self-cut flange gasket, was my favorite option so far). However, these were being applied to brushed plastic lids, which don't have different expansion coefficients (plastic/aluminum).

Here's the point where I would like to draw on your experience and advice:
Do you see a viable solution?

I simply refuse to accept that I have to give the friendly person 200 euros just because I'm not getting a replacement for this seal.

Sincerely,
Wablonsky.

PS: The error code is likely the common '575 - Intake Manifold Pressure - Control Difference - Intermittent,' and the spare part number noted on the connector (LLK) is 058 145 805 C.

Hello,

You'll probably find a way to fix it somehow, but I'd rather look for another one at the auction house; those sometimes go for €40. I'm surprised that this one just burst like that . Ours have also been subjected to pressures of up to 1.5 bar before, and they've held up so far.

Best regards, Uli[/sup]

This happens very often in golf!

I have another one that looks fine externally, but is leaking oil, specifically at the connection between the plastic and aluminum.

You should probably buy a used or new one on eBay!

Regards,

Manuel.

Thank you both.

My further research has revealed that the sealant is used in a vacuum process. A local cooler builder quickly advised me to give up and suggested buying a new part, which is exactly what I wanted. It's actually a shame – all because of such a stupid piece of rubber...

According to the latest AKTE parts catalog information, the radiator costs €145 plus VAT. The large auction house is brazenly claiming €280 (which is still better than what they're asking in Russia, where they're listing it for $360).

@Uli

According to LDA, pressures of 1.5 bar are quite common. However, it quickly stabilizes at 1.15 bar and then increases to 1.3 bar on the track during longer full-throttle runs. The VWTOOL consistently shows a verschandeln reading of 1989 mbar from a certain point onwards. The only thing I've messed up recently with my clumsy fingers is that stupid AGR valve. A piece of metal got stuck inside while I was tinkering (I installed a DC mass airflow sensor this time), and because I can't see it, I can't remove it. So far, I haven't touched the VNT/VTG adjustment, but if there seems to be a causal connection, I will also intervene here to adjust it more precisely over a longer period.

@ Manuel

It probably isn't much that's dripping from a small leak, but a constant drip will ruin the driveway.

Once again, speaking on my own behalf:
I've only been able to access the lower radiator hose from below (meaning the rudimentary remains are still connected to the engine block). Is there a trick to replacing it without putting the entire front of the car in service position? The cold weather makes it difficult to apply enough force to the plastic parts, which is necessary to maneuver the upper right corner of the lower radiator hose past the large plastic housing.

Thank you again.
Wablonsky.

Hello!

In my ASZ Golf, the coolant is leaking - at the transition point between the plastic and aluminum parts.

Does anyone have experience with repairing something by gluing it? If so, what kind of glue did you use?
"Also, has anyone had experience with windshield wiper blades from general retailers (I'm not talking about the €90 ones from 3-2-1, but rather those around €180, like the ones from Valeo...?"
VW is calling back the part with number (1J0 145 803 M) for a price of €312.


Sure, here's the translation:

"Thanks."
Michael.

michiglaser wrote:

In my ASZ Golf, the LLK is damaged - at the transition between plastic and aluminum.

I can't tell from the picture whether the aluminum is bent or if a part is actually broken (everything in the picture is so shiny that I can't distinguish between aluminum and plastic).
"But it looks to me like there's an overload caused by excessive pressure spikes. Therefore, I would also check the lambda (air-fuel ratio) curve and possibly have the software adjusted – or request a refund and look for a better tuner..."

I've now ordered a new windshield wiper blade from Valeo. The one that was originally installed is also a Valeo.

The software is by Rainer. He already has relatively high boost pressure peaks, and he pointed that out to me back then. But regardless, if there are no more defects after now 100,000 km (despite over 40% more power), I'm happy to live with it .

michiglaser wrote:

The software is by Rainer. He already has relatively high boost pressure peaks, and Rainer pointed that out to me back then.

Ah... well, hardware problems (e.g., jerky VTG or N75) cannot really be compensated for with software.

Even if the intercooler fails only after 100,000 km with tuning, it still shows, in my opinion, that the entire charging system is being unnecessarily stressed. Perhaps a new N75 valve would fix it, and that would be cheaper than buying another intercooler (at the latest) after another 100,000 km .

ulf wrote:

Even if the turbocharger only fails after 100,000 km with tuning, it still shows, in my opinion, that the entire charging system is being unnecessarily stressed.

Quote:

at the transition between plastic and aluminum

.

Regardless of any boost pressure peaks,
Aluminum naturally corrodes, and the old, hard rubber seal doesn't compensate for that.