ACV engine questions for the T4 (SOLVED)

Hello!

Regarding the restoration of my T4, manufactured in 2001 and with 350,000 km on the odometer (TSN 0603 / 003), I have made significant progress. The suspension work is now complete.

Now I need to replace the crankshaft pulley; I happened to notice today that it needs to be new.
The grooves for the KRR are damaged in one place, displaced/shifted, or partially missing.
I hope that after this, the belt won't flap anymore, and that the power steering will also work correctly even when idling.
I would like to know the torque specification for the central bolt of the KW strut.
I also ordered those, but I can't find any data about them in my workshop software.
And the question is: Is it possible to replace the crankshaft pulley with the timing chain still in place?

I've also managed to get the turbo working again, and I was able to read a boost pressure of up to 1600 millibars when running at full throttle.
But somehow, the engine power isn't really that great.
Could you please provide the value that the mass flow meter (LMM) needs to output so I can check it?

The error memory is clear, and the values and temperatures I saw at a glance seem plausible. Otherwise, the engine runs normally.

Thank you!

You can replace the crankshaft pulley (vibration damper) without having to remove the timing belt. This applies to the 2.5 TDI engine.

I always tighten the pulley with an impact wrench, and I've never had any problems.

Steffen G wrote:

Hello! Tightening torque for the central bolt of the KW (Bilstein) shock absorber. Thank you!

160 Nm + 1/2 revolution.

4xM8 Vibration Dampers, 20 Nm + 1/4 turn.

Quote:

160 Nm + 1/2 revolution

That's a lot of torque! I estimate that we need to achieve around 40-50 kg of torque per meter. Do you think that can be achieved with an impact wrench (aside from the impacts it would exert on the timing chain)?

The uses a nice holder for it. It might be possible to borrow it for a generous deposit.
The tool should be imperial in size and long.

Sure.

Torque wrench and 3/4" tools are required; the old 5-cylinder engines should be tightened to 460 Nm.

People who use impact drivers carelessly are to blame for the bad reputation of these motors!

Best regards, Michael.

Bad reputation

I would say it's one of the best engines ever produced by the VAG group.
I've owned several T4s with the 2.5-liter engine, some with 400,000 km on them, and they all ran without problems using the original engine and cylinder head.

Hi.

Sure, they will work – provided they are treated properly. This includes proper maintenance. The replacement parts can be purchased relatively cheaply (I got mine from the UK for around €35) – or borrowed if needed. A 3/4" size is essential, along with a suitable extension.
You don't need much more than a few tools to replace the timing belts. Possibly a ruler to check the valve timing...

And then the torque with overdrive won't be a problem.

"@Steffen: So, is the vibration damper already failing? It's probably worn out - and if you're unlucky, your KW suspension might also be broken. This often happens with "egg-laying" vibration dampers - there's a tool available to mill off the KW stub in such cases."

Later on, Volkswagen released a diamond-coated disc as an upgrade – you could add that information too (micro-slip).

The central bolt and the four outer bolts are expansion bolts and definitely need to be replaced. And as mentioned before, do not use an impact wrench to tighten them.

T4wiki is a very helpful documentation resource here!

Best regards,

Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"Addendum:"

Once you've removed the central screw and the four other screws, carefully try to remove the vibration damper. If it's been on for a long time, it might require some gentle force; BE CAREFUL, because once the vibration damper is removed, the crankshaft sprocket (where the timing chain pulley is located) will no longer be secured - I'm not entirely sure how easily it will come off...

it then looks like this --> http://goo.gl/mFmIA

I had to replace the vibration damper after changing the Z-axis rod, and then, a week after installing the old one, I replaced it with a new one in exactly the same way.

Good luck!

Hello.

Hello!

Thank you for your answers!

I received a vibration damper as an accessory today.
for €84.
Unfortunately, it was damaged; a piece of plastic shaped like a crescent moon had broken off, which was clearly damage from transportation. The box also looked very worn and battered.
Well, I'm getting a new one on Monday.

And the SD (presumably a specific component or brand) didn't just fail; it completely destroyed the power steering pump in that car.
Apparently, the pulley of the power steering pump has damaged or partially worn down the grooves for the flat belt on the SD unit.
For that reason, the SD card absolutely needs to be replaced.

Hi.

Okay, I thought it might be "fluttering" because you mentioned something about flapping.

What brand did you order? 84€ is quite cheap. Here at VW, it costs over 200€. I got a "Hutchinson" from a parts dealer (who specializes in Volvo) for 120€ - and according to him, it's an OEM part. http://goo.gl/kWWBq)

I had the older version before (http://goo.gl/mKRFQ) - which was probably still the original, considering almost 500,000 km - unfortunately, the rubber connecting it to the engine is worn and not visible - but luckily, you can recognize the new one from the outside...).

Best regards,

Hi!

Well, it's one of those TOPRAN things.
"This is a replica, made in Turkey, with an original-looking number."
The rest is out.
It smells strongly of solvent/rubber.

Well, I'll see how long this lasts.
I also don't think I drive more than 5,000 kilometers per year in that vehicle.

Hello!

It is done! Thank you for your versatile support!
It's crazy how tightly you have to tighten that screw, it's really insane.
ich hab da meine Gefühle ausgeschalten, und nach den 160 Nm eben noch die halbe Umdrehung weitergedreht, ohne Rücksicht auf Verluste. HIt worked out.

The power steering is finally working now.
It was actually due to the pulley.

Here's another picture of the tool; that long lever was really necessary.

Thank you for the feedback .

It's a very bold construction, , one might say.

Quote:

No, nothing about bold construction, (if that's what you mean, which I think it is). I'm not suicidal,

.
It was more about the tool. Have you ever stripped a screw head before?
Considering the length, one might think a rotating rod is being used.