Affordable repair/reconditioning of 2.0 TDI engine oil pump/AGW

Hello forum!
Today, a question for those familiar with the notoriously problematic 2.0 TDI engines!
The issues with the drive mechanisms of the balance shaft modules are well-known, and I have recently had to deal with them myself due to a current situation.
My case concerns another BLB unit from an Audi A4, model year 2005. As is well known, this engine uses a timing chain instead of gears, as in later models.

The friendly salesperson will offer the customer a complete conversion to a spur gear drive (including a different AGW module, a different oil pan, a different crankshaft gear, etc.) if there is even the slightest problem with the current drive system.
The costs associated with this are exorbitant, and since the vehicles in question are often 7-8 years old, it can sometimes be uneconomical... But there's no other way, as VAG no longer supplies spare parts for the chain drive.

Now, I came across an offer from England on the marketplace.
There, the complete chain drive assembly is offered, including gears, chain tensioner, etc., along with the hexagonal bolts. So, everything you need to restore the chain drive is included. Most of the parts are original VAG, and the gears are supposedly of exceptional quality.

It's definitely a cost-effective option...

What do you think about it?
Has anyone had any experience with this before?

Best regards.
Sascha.

No opinions on that?

Quote:

What do you think about it? Has anyone perhaps had any experience with this?

Well, practice makes perfect. Experience --> No.

Of course, there's a risk that the gears are not up to the task.

Yep, the parts are already here, but I'm just short on time at the moment...
It's not easy on an A4, just getting the oil pan off is a challenge .
Has anyone ever converted from a chain drive to a sprocket drive?
I'm specifically referring to the gear that has been shrunk to fit the KW (presumably a specific product or model). Is it possible to remove it relatively easily?
Should one mark the position of the balance wave module, or does it not matter where the waves are located?

Best regards,
Sascha

I would drill out the 6mm Allen key and try using an 8mm Allen key set screw. Then, I would insert a hexagonal pin that tapers from 8mm to 6mm. The question is which way the shaft rotates, so it would be either a left-hand or right-hand thread. I would then permanently secure the set screw with Loctite. Maybe it will work?

Since it's a balancing wave module, it compensates for a certain moment. The position is therefore quite fundamental; otherwise, you won't be able to balance things out.

Hello Matthias!
Yes, I also initially thought that the orientation of the waves was important. However, as far as I can remember, there's no "OT" marking anywhere on the object, which would be useful if it indicated the correct orientation. I had hoped there would be more people here who have already addressed this problem...

Hello,

It might sound silly now, but don't you think that if there's a conversion kit for it, the corresponding part might be included in a repair kit? Is the instruction documented?

Are those few euros not well spent?

SG
Aevuz.

TDIMaster wrote:

...Has anyone ever done the chain conversion to a sprocket? I'm specifically concerned about the gear that has been reduced in size to fit the KW - is it possible to get it out somewhat smoothly?...

Hi,

You can heat the sprocket and then remove it with a puller.

Since wear on the oil pump shaft in the AGW module repeatedly occurs, I took a different approach (engine code: BMR, 170 hp, PD Passat).
With the same engine performance, design, and year of manufacture, the engine code is BMN (e.g.,). The Octavia RS does not have an AGW (auxiliary gearbox), only a chain-driven oil pump.
I still had an oil pump, chain, and other parts from an engine with the model code C*** (a CR engine with 140 horsepower).
Okay, I removed the AGW module, detached the gear from the KW (Kurbelwellen), shrunk the sprocket, and installed the oil pump. In addition, I replaced the connecting rod bearings and main bearings because the mileage was over 200,000 km and there was insufficient oil pressure due to wear on the oil pump shaft.
The BMR motor, with its modifications, has now been running for approximately 15,000 kilometers.
Positive side effect: lower fuel consumption and the engine is slightly more agile.

That's quite a contribution!

I've also been giving this option some thought.
Unfortunately, I don't have the time to work on that A4 project right now.
But I'm always grateful for more interesting information like that!

Best, Sascha.