Engine Diagnostics: 1.6D/TD Solutions

Hello!

I will soon be dealing with the following problem:

A friend has an old Volkswagen Caddy.
At one point, a 1.6-liter turbocharged diesel engine was installed in it, specifically a rare model with only 60 horsepower.
Then the fuel injection pump failed, causing diesel to leak into the timing chain tensioner (ZR), which eventually caused the ZR to rupture.
He then reassembled it himself, but only later realized that the fuel injection pump was leaking.
So, I managed to find a used fuel injection pump. Specifically, it's from a naturally aspirated engine with 54 horsepower, found in the second-generation Golf.

I only started adjusting the fuel injection pump precisely using the measuring gauge, as it should be done. And I made sure to do it accurately.
The engine is running, but it's quite slow.

I need to take another look at that in the next few days.

I'll start by checking the Z-axis adjustment, as the loader seems to be generating a bit too little pressure, based on how it feels when I touch the pressure hose.
and my acquaintance is more of a person with a strong inclination for playing and crafting.
So, first of all, every sealed screw is opened, and people turn them to see what happens.

The most important question to consider before I start thinking about this is:
Is there anything preventing the installation of an ESP (electronic spark advance) system from a 54 hp engine into a 1.6 soft-turbo engine?
As far as I know, only the 70 HP and 80 HP models with a catalytic converter had this ESP system with the membrane canister on top.
Is that correct?
Does the ESP system with the 60 horsepower engine have a higher flow rate?

Quote:

As far as I know, only the 70 HP and 80 HP models with a liquid-cooled engine (LLK) had this ESP system with the membrane reservoir on top? Is that correct?

As far as I remember, yes. The 80 hp version definitely had one.

Quote:

Or does the ESP with the 60 horsepower engine have a larger flow rate?

As far as one can speak of a certain amount of funding, yes.

Before you install a "proper fuel injection pump":

On the back of the pump, there is an adjustment screw that is secured with a collar to prevent it from rotating. Mark the current position, then turn the screw about 20 degrees inwards and test it. Then adjust it more or less until it works correctly.

The effect is that (roughly speaking) the throttle sleeve opens further during acceleration, allowing more fuel to pass through. You will probably have to readjust the low-speed mixture setting downwards.

If you turn too sharply, the car will lose traction and start sliding uncontrollably.

It was like this:

JP - 54 HP naturally aspirated diesel engine.

JR (in the T3 as JX) - 70 hp turbo diesel (obviously with a membrane on the exhaust pressure sensor, which they called "boost enrichment" - LDA).
Here is a picture: http://www.bilder-hochladen.net/files/big/5rf6-4m.jpg

SB/RA - 80 hp TD engine with liquid-cooled turbocharger and LDA (linear diesel accelerator).
http://www.golf2parts.de/WebRoot/Store13/Shops/15511620/4994/439D/E4EF/C0FB/49AA/C0A8/28B8/BD77/sb_motor.jpg

1V - 60 HP CAT TD - no low-temperature coolant, no low-temperature diesel injection. The turbocharger was only there to ensure the catalytic converter didn't get clogged and that there was always enough air.
http://www.callparts.de/sites/default/files/productimages/BIR11000290172030/1619614.jpg


Whether or not you're allowed to replace the pumps... well, it definitely has to run with at least a 54 horsepower engine.

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

Autoservice wrote:

If you turn too sharply, the car will lose traction and start sliding wildly.

This has happened to me too.

Hi!
Okay, that's good to know, it sounds like the pump should work properly.

I know about the adjustment screw and how sensitive it is; I used to have a similar Golf with a 70 horsepower turbodiesel engine back in the day.
That would also be a good problem-solving approach, especially since the vehicle owner has probably already been messing with it.


And then, just one more question to this impressive gathering of experts:
On these fuel injection pumps, there's a kind of screw head located on the top of the housing, on the high-pressure side, in one of the corners. It only has two parallel keyways on opposite sides.
You can't get it out with normal tools.
I once modified an Allen screw for that purpose.
This screw or plug has a metal cylinder in the center that can be pushed further in with a pin.
If my memory serves me correctly, there's a feather in it, and that's after 20 years.

Does anyone know what this is and what its function is?

It seems to me that inserting the pin might increase the tension on the spring, which would likely raise the injection pressure.
Anyway, after that, my engine ran better, but it was less environmentally friendly.
But eventually, I went too far, and had to unscrew the part and push the plug back in.

Hi there,
Pictures of the pump would be helpful; it makes discussion easier.
The part secured with the jacket is the flow rate adjustment screw.
The "screw" on the front surface is part of the pressure regulating valve.
hg
Herbert.

The internet is great.

Here's something we can discuss.
http://www.westportparts.com/dieselvw/images/PicsPump.JPG

I think the thing about the feather only applied to the ones with LDA on the ESP.
The 60 horsepower version didn't have that.
The pump is definitely capable of that, because the only differences between the 54 hp and 80 hp versions are the LDA (Low-Pressure Distribution) system and the adjustable flow rate.
If I'm not mistaken, the "turbo" in the 60 horsepower Golf also only produced around 0.4 or 0.5 bar of boost.

It also runs well with 1 bar .

Hello.

The screw with the metal cylinder is the pressure regulating valve, which controls and limits the internal pump pressure. It also sets the pressure for the timing piston, as this operates using the pressure provided by the rotor cells within the pump housing. All of this, of course, is speed-dependent.
If you now pre-tension the valve spring by pressing down on the lifter, the internal pressure increases and the injection timing control goes haywire. It then advances the timing, which makes the engine feel a bit more responsive, especially at higher RPMs, but also results in higher peak pressures and temperatures. The cylinder head, combustion chambers, pistons, and head gasket suffer.

The 60 horsepower diesel engine feels more sluggish because the high-pressure component has a smaller piston, and the camshaft also has a different profile.
The 1V engine essentially has a TD pump (large plunger) but without LDA (Low-Pressure Direct Injection). The best solution is to either replace the high-pressure part or install a complete TD pump. It works well and, based on my own experience in a Golf II, it can last for a long time, even with normal driving, reaching 300,000 km.

Regards, Mpire.

Did the naturally aspirated diesel engine also have the same high-pressure injection system?
I didn't pay attention to the thing about the camshaft .

To avoid misunderstandings, please refer to the two sketches which clearly show what needs to be done.
It has nothing to do with the pressure regulating valve, so leave it alone.
In my opinion, replacing the pump again is not worth it considering the few percentage points of power that are missing. The required 60 horsepower should be easily achievable if everything else is okay, even without any negative side effects.

Hello!

Thank you very much for your valued responses.

I think I'll get the car tomorrow.
Okay, I'll start by checking the basic things: valve timing, compression, air filter, turbocharger, fuel lines and filters, etc.

Then, re-examine the part numbers of the old pumps and the ones that are now installed, and find the original part numbers. It's also a good idea to double-check the engine code letters for safety.

It's just annoying when you have cars that are so heavily modified.

Otherwise, regarding the driving experience:
I took it for a quick test drive.
You don't really notice much on a straight road; it just feels like an old diesel engine with 54 horsepower.
However, when it goes uphill, it loses a lot of power.
Somewhere, there's a 30% performance deficit.

And, if it only has 54 horsepower and behaves like an old naturally aspirated engine...
"Would that be completely okay?"

Hi there,
I'm surprised that anything can be adjusted on the pressure regulating valve, especially when I look at representations like the ones shown here: http://fmso.de/forum/messages/77630.htm
Besides that, the device regulates to a maximum pressure value, which is more than enough to ensure that the injection timing valve is set early enough with proper initial adjustment.
A higher internal pressure only puts a strain on the pump.
"I have driven both the CR Diesel (54 hp) and the CY Turbodiesel (70 hp) for a long time. Shifting the injection timing too early (adjusting the pump) tends to result in sluggish behavior at higher power levels. The engine only "growls" when you give it even more throttle. A slightly later injection timing, compared to the factory settings, provides better acceleration and torque. For the CY TD, this is approximately 0.88 mm of travel at top dead center (TDC), while for the naturally aspirated engine, it's about 0.82 mm. These values will naturally change, for example, with the opening pressure of other injectors, but the basic behavior should remain the same."
Let's wait for your measurements.
hg
Herbert.

Hello!

Today, I took a quick inventory.

The engine is a 1V, which I could clearly see from the markings on the engine block.

The previously installed ESP has part number 068 130 081 M, and according to my microfilms, this is the correct part.
Currently, an ESP 060 130 081 N is installed, which, according to the microfilm records, belongs to a naturally aspirated engine with 54 horsepower (JP).

I also found out that the starting point for the support must be set to 1.00 mm on the 1V setting.
I adjusted the pump in the same way as I did for the JP, so it's set to 0.86 mm.
So, that's probably wrong already.
NW is well-adjusted, that's a good thing.

However, a complicating factor is that the motor on the flywheel does not have an "OT" (Top Dead Center) marking.
The last time I adjusted the ESP, I used a hole in an extracted fuel injector to access the OT sensor.
We did that together, just the two of us.
And it's always annoying when one person is turning [something], while the other person is feeling [it] and making a mark.

"Tomorrow, I'm definitely going to weld together a lever using an old 19mm socket and a meter of flat bar so that I can attach it to the crankshaft bolt."
I'll definitely manage that on my own for now, and I can get even more specific about it later.
So, you need to determine and mark the optimal torque (OT), and adjust the electronic stability program (ESP).

Otherwise, the plan is to get as much functionality as possible out of the existing ESP system, and that's likely how it will remain if it proves to be practical for everyday use.
The car isn't worth it because there are still hundreds of euros needed for repairs.

And those two ESPs I need to replace? No, I don't think I'm going to do that anymore; it's too much for me at my age.

Hi there,
The torque and power of the 1V engine should be approximately 10% higher than those of the JP engine, while maintaining a similar performance characteristic.
If the engine starts easily with the ESP setting at 0.86 mm, that value isn't necessarily wrong. You just need to experiment to find out when it runs best; you can tell if the timing is too advanced by how the engine behaves near full throttle.
It might never be perfectly optimal, as the nozzles have different opening pressures: 130 bar and 155 bar respectively.
The pistons of the pumps are also different.
hg
Herbert.

Hi!

Oh, I was way off there.
Have they perhaps revised everything again for the last few days of production of the 1.6 diesel engines?

I turned the described adjusting screw a quarter of a turn today.
The idle speed is slightly higher than desired, but it cannot be reduced further.
That's still acceptable.
The engine power is noticeably better; I hope my friend is happy with it.
It's not producing any smoke yet.
I left the starting issue alone because the engine starts really cleanly and sounds very healthy.
When the KSB (Kollmotorkupplungsbremse - clutch brake) is engaged, it provides slightly more traction and increases the engine speed marginally.
As it should be.

Okay, so another ESC (Electronic Speed Controller) for €200 won't be installed.
But at least for the JP, I could probably find some injectors for a few euros.
Was wäre, wenn zumindest die Einspritzpumpe und die Injektoren kompatibel wären?